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Cruise control


Mike Culver

Cruise control  

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I have fitted several but only for self friends and familly. Dave Newell fits them commercially and is recommended. (tel 01952 587702) Dave lives near Telford. Dave is far too modest to advertise here himself. I did publish a couple of articles in MMM about fitting them, the first in 1997.

 

For me they are the best thing since sliced bread.

 

Here is part of that script :-

 

The cruise control consists of three basic components :-

1) The Actuator. This is a stepper motor (or vacuum) driven unit that operates the accelerator system with a flexible (bowden) cable in exactly the same manner as the drivers accelerator pedal does. It normally mounts in the engine compartment and is fitted with one multipole connector. It connects mechanically alongside the normal throttle cable.

2) The control unit. This is a small black box that you mount under the dash. It is the “brains” for the cruise control system and includes a small computer, a diagnostic LED, a row of 10 small switches and a wiring harness with plugs and terminals.

3) The command module. This is the bit the driver plays with!. Several shapes are available but all have the same basic controls. The simplest has three buttons. One marked SET/ACC, one marked RES/DEC and one marked COAST. It is important that you mount your command module where it is easily accessible without taking your hands off the steering wheel. The command module is fitted with a harness and multipole connector.

4) It is just possible that you may need to use a sensor coil and some magnets. These are supplied as part of the basic kit just in case.

 

The cruise control needs some signal to tell it the speed of the vehicle. On manual vehicles the speed of the engine will do. On automatics most vehicles today have an impulse counting speedometer. Most diesels have a tachometer and this is invariably driven from impulses from a third terminal on the vehicles alternator. If your car is an old petrol banger then it will have a coil and a set of points. Modern cars frequently have an output specifically provided for the purpose. Any of these pulse sources are suitable for use by a cruise control. If you have none of these then the kit includes some special wire clips and magnets and a pick up coil. The magnets are fitted to a drive shaft and the pick up coil is mounted reasonably close - like within 25 mm or so with brackets supplied. It is not that fussy.

 

The kit was very comprehensive with half a professional Mecano set thrown in to enable each bit to be fitted one way or other in almost every application. The instructions were equally comprehensive. Those with an engineering background will always find more elegant ways of mounting the bits than possible with the Mecano! The electrical part of the installation is straight forward if you READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. The kit includes a pile of ScotchLocks and the harness from the control unit includes two multipole connectors to mate with those from the Actuator and Command module. Other connections include 12 volts from the key switch, negative (chassis), each side of the foot brake switch. (it won’t work if these are not both connected) and a pulse input from somewhere.

 

THE CRUISE CONTROL IN USE

Drive the car normally at the speed you wish to maintain and press the SET/ACC button and release your foot from the accelerator. The cruise control WILL control the throttle for you to maintain that speed. If you want to increase speed then tap the SET/ACC button a few times, about 2 taps = + 1MPH. If you want to slow down a bit tap the DEC/RES button. One touch of the brake pedal or the COAST button immediately releases accelerator control back to the drivers pedal. If you want to resume the speed last set having cancelled for some reason then touch the DEC/RES button, the car will smoothly accelerate up to then maintain the last set speed. This resume feature does not work if the key switch has been turned off.

 

Hope that helps?

 

Clive

 

 

 

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I have a cruise control Conrad Anderson (Birmingham) fitted to my second hand AutoTrail its the vacum type cheaper than the electrical version and less moving parts it has a speed selection on the column stalk and 3 other preset buttons on the facia,

It has the facility to increase speed or decrease speed via the stalk ideal for overtaking and pacing with vehicle in front, It is easily over-riden by applying the brake or switching off at the stalk.

If the cruise control is on you can accelerate as normal and when you reduce speed the cruise takes over again.

I cant remember the cost but it wasnt as dear as others ive looked at.

I took it one morning to their premises and watched them fit it very profesionally, i was then taken out in the camper to see it set up and explained how it worked.

In my honest opinion i wouldnt be without it. Used all over Europe without a hitch plus it can be removed and put on the next vehicle .no aching ankles.

Look them up on the net or ring 0121 247 0619

 

 

Pete

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The only problem i have with mine but they say they have a different set up with the new ones is,

The led light that comes on when cruise control is switched on amber and then red when cruise is seltected cant be seen due to the steering wheel fork.

It is modern and doesnt look out of place not a home made afar i just wondered if you could connect a LED to the wiring and fit it in a proment position.

 

 

Pete

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The new stalk with the preset speed buttons is ideal for the Ducato/Boxer and the stalk is visible through the lower left quadrant of the wheel so you can now see the LED which is green when the system is powered but not actually "on cruise" and red when "on cruise".

 

There are companies who will recomend the electric actuator unit and some strange claims have been made, "the vacuum units are unreliable" and "cutting into the vacuum supply can invalidate your manufacturers warranty" are just two of the statements I have heard. Both of these statements are FALSE.

 

I have been fitting cruise controls for over 6 years and I estimate to have done around 100 per year on average. Out of those 600 plus units I've personally fitted probably less than 40 were electric actuators, all the rest being vacuum. I've never had a diaphragm failure occur. I've only ever known the solenoid in the cheaper range to play up occasionaly (that's why I only use the premium range units). Out of the numbers I've fitted I've had a higher percentage of problems with the electric actuator, although I have to say they are very reliable overall too.

 

Manufacturers warranty has never been an issue, I always advise anyone concerned about it to check with the supplying dealer and I've never known one to claim that cruise would be a problem. I've fitted them at main dealers of motorhomes and cars on brand new vehicles. I've even fitted one or two to vehicles that were still in the showroom and as yet unregistered!

 

Sorry if this sounds like an advert, it's not meant to be and if the Moderator isn't happy with it then please delete it. These are simply a few mis-conceptions put about by some less scrupulous cruise installers (Not Conrad Anderson I hasten to add) and I think the buying public deserve to have all the info at hand to enable an informed decision.

 

(Thanks for the plug C). D.

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I used and would recommend Conrad Anderson in Birmingham.

 

Vaccum unit with all the controls including three preset speeds on the stalk. Fitted to a Fiat Hymer.

 

Go direct to them and not through your local dealer. Ordered at Peterborough Show and fitted later.

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Hi all,

 

Dave Newell fitted a Goldcruise unit to our Peugeot Boxer (A/S Nuevo) a few months ago. We used it in France for 4 weeks in September and all I can say is it was absolutely marvellous. Does what it says on the tin and has made log motorway journeys almost enjoyable. Just set the 'cruise and point the van. Fitting by Dave was done in less than half a day and the workmanship exemplary. Thanks Dave. It's improved the mpg too.

 

jamer

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I've had cruise control on my vans now for many years now. Due to disability I could not drive any distance without it. On my Timberland it was offered as a factory fitted option.

 

Also having the Smart Box fitted has helped to improve fuel consumption.

 

As far as I'm concerned the CC is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Along with the refillable LPG bottle and the Solar panel of course.

 

Don

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Thanks Jamer,glad it's all working well.

 

CC can improve fuel consumption but I don't make any claims for it in that department as it is so dependent on other factors, chief of which is how heavy the drivers right foot is.

 

I personally agree with Don, it is the best thing since sliced bread met the electric toaster. I'd put it on the lawn mower if I had one!

 

D.

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Dave fitted cruise to my 1999 Transit. Best thing I've ever had done to any vehicle. I use most of the functions but recently the 40mph pre set while driving through the roadworks on the M1 and M6 has been most beneficial. Excellent workmanship from Dave and the steering column mounted control stalk looks like original equipment. I'll have cruise fitted to all my future vehicles.
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Hi JenIan, yes cruise can be fitted to your Talbot, it'll need a speed pulse generator as well though and a column mounted stalk is not a good option as yours already has three stalks. Give me a ring (phone No above on Clive's post) to discuss.

 

I'm going to leave this thread now as it's starting to look like an advert and I don't want to get banned 'cos I quite like it here.

 

See you on another thread, D.

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Okay Terry, one last post then. The new Renault Master is as good a candidate for CC as any other motorhome base. I would fit the vacuum system as there is no need for the dearer electric servo. I have fitted several Renault Masters with cruise and it works fine.

 

Now before I get banned for advertising can I please ask that if anyone else wants to ask me anything about cruise would you please e-mail or phone me.

 

Cheers, D.

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  • 14 years later...
I read this post with interest as I'm trying to fit an AP900 CC to my MH which is based on the Fiat Ducato 2004 (2.8TD) and I can't establish where I can get the speed pulse from? Some reports say it can be found on the side of the gearbox VSS but it seems to me that the signal that the VSS generates would travel by wire to somewhere more accessible, like the dash board. Any guidance would be very welcome. Thanks in advance
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Suggest you contact Dave Newell (who has not participated on this forum for 7 years) as he should be able to advise on cruise-control installation on older Ducatos.

 

https://davenewell.co.uk/cruise-control/

 

I did a quick GOOGLE-search on fitting AP900 systems and there seemed to be plenty of opportunity for installation screw-ups, or for the system operating improperly. This (Australian) link evidently relates to an AP900 system fitted to a Ducato with 2.8JTD motor.

 

http://www.manins.net.au/motorhome/cruise-control.html

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drew-boy007 - 2021-09-05 8:48 AM

 

I read this post with interest as I'm trying to fit an AP900 CC to my MH which is based on the Fiat Ducato 2004 (2.8TD) and I can't establish where I can get the speed pulse from? Some reports say it can be found on the side of the gearbox VSS but it seems to me that the signal that the VSS generates would travel by wire to somewhere more accessible, like the dash board. Any guidance would be very welcome. Thanks in advance

 

The following relates to a Fiat Ducato 2.8 JTD, which I believe your vehicle to be.

 

The speed signal (not engine rpm) connects to the instrument panel at connector D pin 15. The wire colour is shown as HV, which translates to Grey/Green.

 

Inspired by a thread on the Fiat Forum, I installed cruise control for about £50, and some cursing. Main costs were a used Fiat Alfa 147 cruise squib, and a new brake light switch. It was fitting this latter item that caused the cursing.

 

For a wiring diagram of the instrument panel see here.

 

Alan

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All,

 

Special Thanks to Alan for his guidance.

 

After a frustrating time with an intermittent switched 12v Brake connection, I am now equipped with an AP900 Cruise Control which works very well, has two pre-sets, stepped inc/dec of speed either 1Km/h or 10Km/h.

 

The very helpful chaps at the place I bought the unit were able to give precise details of where to find the Speed Sensor wire and identified the PIN on the connector (B6). Breaking into it was another matter but I managed a neat job and reassembly.

 

I'll gladly provide full details to anyone who wants them. Please post here.

 

Again thanks to Alan. :-D

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Below is the procedure I followed for the installation of the AP900 + CM35.

 

 

Motorhome Cruise Control – CI Riviera 181

(based on Fiat Ducato (2004) 2.8 JTD, 5 Speed Manual)

 

The unit I fitted is the Liteon AP900 with a CM35 control stalk. This connects into the Accelerator, Braking, Clutch, Speed Sensor and switched Live wiring. (There is also a model AP900C which utilises the CANBUS; the “C” denotes CANBUS).

 

The unit came with the appropriate wiring looms. There were three:

1. Fully terminated loom connected in—line with the existing Accelerator connector and with a break-out to the AP900.

2. All other vehicle cabling terminating one end at a connector to plug in to the AP900, unterminated that the other end to allow each to be connected to the appropriate vehicle component/wire.

3. The wiring from the CM35 to the AP900 – ribbon cable from the CM35 to a set of terminated connectors which push into the connector block [after threading through the mounting hole in the steering column shroud to take the CM35] that plugs in to the AP900 (unterminated so they fit through the smallest aperture possible, with connector pins for ease of build into the connector block).

 

I removed the lower parts of the dashboard across the width of the vehicle in order to access all termination points/components. From left to right:

 

1. Speed Senor – fitted to the large black connector, B6. This Connector has 4 rows of wires: A-D. I detached the connector, removed the exterior cable protection, separated the Grey/Green speed sensor cable and soldered the Blue wire for the AP900.

2. Clutch - Purple & Green/White wires were both terminated in a 2-pin connector which I cut off leaving the purple wire to connect to the clutch activated (0->12v on pedal depression) which I spliced using a Scotchbloc. Insulated the Green/White wire and left it safe.

3. Brake – Switched 12v feed - Brown wire was connected to the Green/Blue of the Brake switch. [i checked the voltage present under non-switched/switched and switched+pedal depressed to determine correct wires to tap. The instructions note that brown and Brown/White are reversible.]

4. Brake – Pedal Activated – Brown/White wire was connected to the Red/Black wire.

5. Switched 12v Supply – Orange wire was spliced into a connection taken from the RHS fuse box for ease.

6. Noise Suppressor – Yellow wire is not needed and can be cut off. I insulated the end and bound mine and left it in case of need.

 

I regularly checked all connections and, after finding and fixing one intermittent connection and the connector for the Brake switch, I got all signals as expected and entered set-up and diagnostic modes which I ran through with no issue. They are clear and well laid out.

 

Static tests proved successful and so road trials commenced. There was no need to adjust the sensitivity though full, clear instructions are given in the manual.

 

All in all, I’m very happy with the AP900 and would recommend it to anyone with a modicum of vehicle electronic/electrical knowledge.

 

:-D

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