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Dead Control Panel


Grumpy Grandad

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Hi all.

We have a Hymer B544 with a 100w Solar panel on the roof. It charges two 100 amp Leisure batteries through a Schaudt charge controller, Model LR 1218. This feeds in to a Schaudt Electroblock EBL 101. The Control panel DT 201 recently died. The panel is completely blank and will not allow me now to switch it either on or off. All 12 volt systems are working perfectly apart from the frost control valve which I have had to tie up as otherwise it dumps the water. I have checked all of the fuses on the front of the Electroblock and all OK. Are there any other fuses that I may have missed please.

Thanks

Stuart

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I guess your Hymer was built pre 2006 era as later Truma boilers dispensed with the electrically controlled dump valve.

 

The dump valve will remain open if the on/off switch on the electroblok is switched to off.

 

Perhaps the main switch on the electroblok has inadvertently been switched to off or there is something wrong with the switch itself.

 

I've heard of instances where the main switch has caused problems. I seem to remember that Allan of aanddcaravanservices raised this in one of his posts.

 

PS. I could of course be barking up the wrong tree if the rest of your 12v system is working as normal.

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If all 12v services apart from the frost valve are working, it can't really be the EBL switch can it?  The power to the frost valve is a "never switched off"  service, so the frost valve itself might have failed, quite separately from whatever is wrong with the display panel.  The powered valve is no longer available as a spare so the replacement is a manual valve anyway and I understand you can use a clothes peg to hold the valve plunger up meantime.

 

Alan of AandACaravans is the man to tell you how to check whether the DT201 Panel has died and whether anything can be done to resurrect it.  I would wait for his comment before you spend money on a replacement panel because they are around £200.  It might be a simple as the power supply to the panel has become disconnected - presumably you have checked the fuse buried in the front of the panel, to the left of the display?

 

Another thing to check is whether the multipin plug for the display unit on the EBL panel has a poor connection.  Wiggle the cables at the connector to see if that brings life back to the panel.

 

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Hi.

The van is a 2007 model Robbo.

Previous to this, only if I switched the 12 volts off on the control panel the frost valve would then open and dump the water. Unless of course it was frosty. I have tried wiggling all the wires and connections, but to no avail. When you say about the fuse on the front of the panel Stuart, do you mean behind the black plug? I took this out and behind it was a steel pin which I tried to carefully remove. Obviously I didn't want to do any damage so left well alone.

Thanks

Stuart D

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The black blob? Is the thermostat for the heating on our dt201 panel I have had to use a contact cleaner on my panel sometimes when having to make adjustments when buttons don't work, maybe it's the 12volt on button needs a spray? have you tried to unplug it and see if it resets?

 

Snail

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The DT201 is powered from the Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 101, no separate fusing. As the EBL 101 is working, it suggests power is good.

Sorry but your symptoms are of a failed LCD display.

 

Whatever you do, don't turn off the EBL using it's front switch as it is likely everything will shut down and you will lose all 12v with no means to reactivate it.

 

Checked stock and we have DT110, DT220, LT's and stacks of IT's but no DT201's, sorry.

 

We have never supplied a DT201 before so don't know the price. A similar DT220 is 300euros + VAT + delivery.

The factory is currently 'closed' for the summer but I can get you a price next week?

It does have a skeleton crew but orders tend not to be processed very quick and usually with issues, like the wrong part sent.

 

We don't repair this item any more, as 9 years old is a lot for an LCD display. It is likely you have an early model DT201, the replacement will be the later DT201B.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks to aandncaravan.

I had a feeling that would be the case. I was concerned first of all in case the batteries were not recieving any power from the solar panel. As we were using the van for two weeks without EHU it was obvious they were still recieving a charge. I would appreciate it if you could get me a price for a replacement please, but it may be something we just have to learn to live without.

Thanks

Stuart D

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I was surprised to learn from Allan of aanddcaravanservices that LED display panels can become troublesome after less than 10 years service.

 

My CBE panel is coming up for 8 years old from original manufacture. If it did malfunction I would replace it in order to assist with the resale value of the vehicle, whenever that may be. In the meantime I would be able to enjoy a fully functioning MH.

 

If the OP wishes to live with a non operating control panel then it is his choice but don't expect Allan to be overly proactive if this is the bottom line.

 

 

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I was repairing an EBL 101 this morning to go out urgently tomorrow for a couple off to France and it suddenly sunk in what you said about losing Frost Protection valve power.

 

On this model it is powered directly from the 2a battery sense fuse, which the Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 101 also uses to decide whether to allow the DT to power on or not.

If there is an issue with the fuse the EBL will not receive the minimum 11v it needs to 'activate' and it will stay dormant.

 

Check the two fuses near the habitation battery, a 50A and a grey 2A. It is the Grey 2A we are interested in. It must be perfect, no signs of corrosion or tarnishing. The slightest resistance on this fuse and the EBL may get a reduced voltage, believing the Battery is lower voltage than it is.

We suggest you replace it as a matter of course rather than clean it. Cleaning it reduces the thickness of the legs which then don't make such good contact in the 'holder'.

 

Hopefully you will find an issue with the fuse that you can then fix so the DT powers on?.

 

 

 

Taking the children into Llandudno now to go on the old Tram up the Great Orme and back down via the Cable Car so will look for a reply, hopefully a message of success, tonight?

 

Only decent Fish and Chip shop in Landudno is Enochs and that is right out at Llandudno Junction!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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aandncaravan - 2016-08-29 9:43 AM... losing Frost Protection valve power.On this model it is powered directly from the 2a battery sense fuse, which the Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 101 also uses to decide whether to allow the DT to power on or not.If there is an issue with the fuse the EBL will not receive the minimum 11v it needs to 'activate' and it will stay dormant. Check the two fuses near the habitation battery, a 50A and a grey 2A. It is the Grey 2A we are interested in. It must be perfect, no signs of corrosion or tarnishing. The slightest resistance on this fuse and the EBL may get a reduced voltage, believing the Battery is lower voltage than it is. ...

 

That's well worth remembering!

 

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Brilliant !! Thanks very much Allan.

Couldn't wait till tomorrow, so have been out to van. Have not got a 2a fuse but just tried with a 5a fuse and great, the panel came back to life. Have removed the 5a and will get a 2a tomorrow. I wouldn't care but I removed and replaced all of the fuses the other day. I might now change the whole lot.

Your help is much appreciated Allan

 

Thankyou

Stuart D

 

 

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Glad it's worked.

We often find a 3A fuse fitted, the electronics will handle one ok.

A 5A is ok very short term but I wouldn't leave it in for weeks.

 

A quality fuse is key.

 

May I suggest you get two and replace the D+ 2amp fuse next to or very near the Starter battery? Often tied to a physically bigger 50A fuse which is also worth checking. The two Starter battery fuses usually look exactly like the matching pair at the Habitation battery and swapping them now saves issues later with Fridge or/and Alternator charging.

 

I wouldn't bother swapping out any in the EBL as they are rarely an issue as the EBL is usually located in an area more friendly to electrical circuits.

Only time they are an issue is when the box sits next to the habitation battery that has been gassing. That also usually means that the circuit boards inside are also corroded to the same extent.

 

 

 

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aandncaravan - 2016-08-29 10:12 PM

 

A quality fuse is key.

 

I was wondering how we could be sure that we are indeed buying quality fuses, when everything these days seems to be made in China? Even long trusted brands sell a lot of Chinese goods, which may or may not be of good quality.

In short can we be sure that fuses, or indeed any other spares bought from say Maplin or Radio Spares are of better quality then those sold in Poundland or the local market?

 

Cattwg :-D

Forgot to add. Thank you Allan for your advice so freely given. I’ve stored it for future use – hoping I’ll never need it!!

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You are right in that some quality tools do come out of China and it probably follows that some of the 'German' fuses I buy are probably made in China as well?

 

I don't know is the answer to your question. Ours come from Germany via a charger manufacturer but I don't know their manufacturer.

 

We do see a lot of poor quality fuses in units sent to us which look like the ones I once bought from a Market to use on the work bench. A box of 50 for £1?. When you remove them they tend to leave bits of legs in the Holder or turn to a melted blob in the holder if run any where near the peak rating.

I also suspect, but not tested, that the rating imprinted on the fuse may be more of a guide than a fixed value, plus or minus 25% touch.

The 'Market' ones I bought had significantly thinner metal legs than the German versions, so they are not so tight a contact in the holder.

 

 

RS components can be good fuses. The rating of the fuse is very close to what they should 'fail' at and they will run close to their peak without melting. Look at the quality of the fuse in the graphic below and see : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-fuses/7874110/

But be aware that RS use multiple suppliers for different sized fuses.

The company Littlefuse have a good reputation : http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/blade-fuses/littelfuse_atof_datasheet.pdf

Some of RS 'own' fuses are similarly, not great, quality to Maplin.

 

Generally, if the fuse current rating is clearly visible in White, as opposed to just an indentation of 10A in the plastic, they are probably ok?

It isn't a Cast Iron guide, but we don't know any quality fuse maker that just 'imprints' the rating on the Fuse. Doesn't mean there won't be rubbish fuses using White lettering.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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