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How to run up to Thule front axle blocks?


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The blocks are three step up. They provide traction in grassland and prevent sinking the tyres. And a lift up of the nose. Going up them is difficult. going off is easy. First gear and handbrake engagement have always some inch baclkash from high to low on the blocks. I mostly use step two when the tyre is in the midlle of the block. Then i put AL-Ko rear blocks by a assistance on rear wheel tyres closely fiited. still holding the brakes. Then put in first gear and handbrake. Depending on the soil a repeat. When leaving the rear blocks can be removed by moving a bit in the right direction. Any better method ?
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We use Milenco so don't know if these are easier, but have no problem.

There is one thing thou, I always leave in reverse if going forward up them and 1st if have reversed up them, the theory being if I should accidentally start in gear wouldn't go over the top.

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colin - 2017-08-17 7:44 PM

There is one thing thou, I always leave in reverse if going forward up them and 1st if have reversed up them, the theory being if I should accidentally start in gear wouldn't go over the top.

 

I used to use a terry spring clip attached to bit of plyood that stated 'RAMPS' and clip it to the steering wheel so I didn't forget a second time and drive off the ramps the wrong way damaging the van and ramps again in the process!

Never felt the need to chock the unramped wheels as the handbrake always held OK and the less grovelling about on the ground the better!!

Did used to park the unramped wheels on my infamous 12" plywood squares on grass to stop the wheels sinking and making deramping more difficult.

Used to stand the ramps on double plywood squares on soft ground too before they sank halfway.

Handy stuff plywood!

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monique.hubrechts@gm - 2017-08-17 8:31 PM

 

If placed in front of the tyre you have to do nothing than just release first gear and handbrake and it pulls back use the handbrake for a smooth go-off.

 

Always assuming that your rear wheels have not sunk into the ground!

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I assume these are the Thule levellers Monique uses

 

https://www.thule.com/en-gb/gb/motorhome-accessories/comfort-and-security/thule-levelers-_-307617

 

How easy it will be to put a motorhome on levellers will depend on the design of the levellers and the specification of the motorhome.

 

I used to find the exercise tricky with my Hobby motorhome when using a pair of 4-step Milenco “Quattro” levellers as these had a lot of ‘lift’ and a design where each step had a distinct ‘peak’ on each side, plus the Hobby had a high 1st-gear ratio and delighted in stalling at low revs.

 

I now use 3-step levellers similar to the Thule ones and, because each step flows comfortably into the next and my Rapido motorhome has a low 1st-gear ratio, a ’soft’ power delivery and is not stall-prone, ascending the levellers is child’s play. I’ve never used ‘chocks’ to hold the motorhome in place on the levellers, though I (obviously) pull the motorhome’s handbrake on firmly and put the vehicle in gear.

 

As Tracker points out, if some of a motorhome’s wheels have been raised on levellers but the other wheels have sunk deeply into soft ground, disengaging the handbrake and putting the gearbox in neutral won’t cause the motorhome to roll off the levellers. If I’m doubtful about the ground’s firmness I follow Tracker’s policy and put ’spreaders’ under the levellers and the wheels remaining on the ground. I use Milenco “Grip Mats” as spreaders

 

https://www.motorhomeshop.co.uk/milenco-grip-mat?

 

as four of these (in a bag) are easy enough to store.

 

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These, if I can get the photos to post, are what we used for many years and never once got stuck anywhere.

 

The use of experience and common sense as to where we parked also helped!

 

They are 12" x 11" and about 6.5" deep all together and the yellow tracked hinged pads give about 2.5" of height each side when folded which was often enough to get us levelish enough for short stays.

 

I found the best place to store them ready for use was a combination of the drivers door pocket and between the handbrake and the drivers seat where they travelled nicely for thousands of miles in many countries and several vans!

 

Park the driven wheels on the yellow bit and pull away across the brown bit to get a bit of extra grip, and with the second pads under the non driven wheels that will help get you rolling, or you can open them out and stand ramps on them if needed.

 

The green cords aid picking them up without getting plastered in mud!

 

Simple and cheap to make, store in disposable plastic carrier bags to keep everything clean and they do the job!

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