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Power to rooftop Satellite dome


Leofric

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Just bought 2018 motorhome with a satellite dome left on the roof. Did a test weekend away, just before the lockdown, and took a while to realise that there was only power to it when the main habitation lights were on (no reception as in trees). Tested at home - finds satellite quickly with a good signal. But, not ideal as lights shine onto and directly behind the screen. The installer had wired it to the main lights. I can't understand this and was easily able to connect it to the feed to the back of an adjacent combination 12v/sat/tv socket.

Problem solved. Can turn sat box on/off with it's own switch.

Anyone else had this issue? I can't see a problem with what I have done - any thoughts?

 

 

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It might be helpful to have details of your 2018 motorhome - my “Identifying your motorhome” comment refers in this forum thread

 

https://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/ALL-FORUM-MEMBERS-PLEASE-READ/47195

 

though having the sat-TV system operable only when the main habitation lights are turned on is such a peculiar arrangement that it’s hard to believe a motorhome manufacturer might recommend that method be used.

 

It sounds like a previous owner’s DIY ‘bodge’, rather than something a professional installer would do. You might try contacting BC Motorhomes who sold you the vehicle to see if they can offer a credible explanation or, if not, whether they are prepared to put you in touch with the previous owner (or ask the previous owner about it on your behalf). I can’t see what realistic benefit wiring a sat-TV system as you’ve described was done might have, particularly as you’ve mentioned how easy it was to alter the power feed.

 

Provided that the wiring/fusing of the power-supply you’ve connected to is adequate - I can’t see why the change you’ve made should be problematical.

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I have tapped into 12v power sockets when installing various low power devices and had no pproblem.  Your satellite dish will be low power, so no real drain.

My satellite dome  was installed new professionally and I was advised that power to the dome was only required when fixing on the satellite and after that was complete I should switch the power off, which I do.  This does not affect the signal because the LNB seems to be powered, if at all, through the co-ax signal cable.

Incidentally my system  has always been very reliable, the only attention required be reconfiguration of transponder settings when the satellites have their transponders altered.  Only twice so far in 15 years but Conrad Anderson in Birmingham have always been very helpful doing that for me.
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Thanks. The online manual for the Maxview VuQube 2 says it comes with a connector to plug into a 12v socket so wiring it into the back of the socket should be fine, I think. The circuit is protected by its own fuse, so I can't see a safety issue.
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I've no direct experience of this unit, but two things to be aware of.

Despite Stuarts advice the unit might not transmit a signal if the power is turned off, mine doesn't.

You might find even when off there is a parasitic drain, and this might be why it was installed on a switched circuit, you might be better off doing as I did and fit a isolating switch.

 

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There is an on/off switch on the unit (I can check to see if there is any small drain when off) and if I switch off on the main habitation control panel all 12v circuits in the van should be isolated. Not checked to see if there is a signal if I switch off when the unit has located the satellite - I had assumed not but will take a look.
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The instructions for the unit would indicate the on/off button actually puts it to sleep and is not a switch which isolates, i.e. a short press does one function, a long press does another function. You would hope the parasitic draw is very low, but if not and you are using the van with no EHU it could impact on battery capacity, hardly likely, but something to bear in mind. Myself I prefer a physical switch.
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Thanks. What you said made good sense so I have checked the "standby current" with the main consumer unit on and off. 24.3mA with it on, 0 with it off. So, although a low drain, it makes sense to put an isolating switch in line. Plenty of room and I have a few decent sized 12v DC switches in my electronics bit box. Another little job to do while we are grounded.
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