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arthur49

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arthur49 last won the day on October 19 2022

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  1. My experience of diesel heaters is such that I would have one in preference to gas if I were ordering a new van BUT - on full bore they can be noisy: a significant "roar" - continuous clicking from pump - consider your neighbours as it can be noisier outside van, than in! - need 10A+ on start up, maybe 5 mins max, then settle back to 3A approx, so heavier on 12v than gas heater
  2. Try Avanti. I'm 74 with two cancers - both stable - and I've found Avanti good. Been with them for probably 7 years or more
  3. "There was an audible click and…" That to me sounds like a relay operating. Maybe contacts stuck and now OK? Relay contacts can 'burn' over time I believe and prevent good electrical contact
  4. When I fitted a DC-DC charger and lithium batteries I ran 2 x 16mm2 cables pos and neg from starter battery direct to DC-DC charger bypassing the DS-520 altogether. I then pulled the fuse between the starter battery and DS-520. I've lost monitoring of starter battery voltage but otherwise everything functions as it should. I fitted a Battery Master so trickle charging of starter battery could happen from solar/mains charger, and I also have a Victron Shunt which monitors starter battery voltage as well as leisure batteries. I suspect you could fit a normally closed relay in the feed from starter battery to DS-520 activated by D+ and this way you wouldn't need to pull the fuse as I did. But Alanb is THE expert on CBE gear and hopefully he will be along shortly
  5. Thank you Alan. The fuse did not appear blown. Multimeter also showed it was intact. But I replaced it anyway and all good. Strange ........... but I'm not complaining as I've got a D+ supply again😊
  6. Yes ...... but I've just replaced it and its all working again. Thank you
  7. Wildax Europa Renault Master base 2019 (used to be on my profile but seems to have disappeared?)
  8. My CBE power unit appears to have lost the D+ signal so I can't get my Votronic B2B to run. I have managed to pick up an ignition on signal which I'm using with a 30 second delay timer so I can charge when driving, but I'd really like to use D+. Does anyone know where on the CBE unit - photo attached - I can pick up D+ other than point 17?
  9. Keith is spot on! Exactly where is it leaking. I suspect its a fairly straightforward job of re-sealing between window frame and van body. Easily done. Remove corner pieces from blind frame to reveal securing screws. Undo, remove and blind frame comes out. That exposes the screws holding the window in. With someone holding from outside unscrew and gently push out window. Clean frame of old sealant - gentle manual scrape then clean with white spirit. Reseal with an non-setting mastic, NOT an adhesive. I used Butyrub:- https://www.soudal.co.uk/pro/products/sealants/bitumen-and-butylene-sealants/butyrub Reverse process to refit
  10. You could join here and ask https://talbotoc.com/talbot-auto-trail-comanche-t22392.html
  11. As a (long!) retired claims manager with a major international insurer there are just so many questions it is impossible to answer the OP question I'm afraid!
  12. I have not personally hired a motorhome and claimed loss of use as I've been fortunate and not been in an accident. But your question poses more questions. 1. what are the reasons for your motorhome not being repaired? 2. do you have comprehensive cover or third party only? 3. if you have comprehensive cover why are you not claiming on your own insurance and claiming any excess and loss of use back from the third party's insurer? 4. what are your own insurers saying about your role in the accident? 5. what are the third party insurers saying about your role in the accident?
  13. This is what I'd use. The rooflights have mechanical fastening ie screws so all you need to do is achieve a waterproof seal https://www.soudal.co.uk/pro/products/sealants/bitumen-and-butylene-sealants/butyrub
  14. "A 12v lithium battery will happily charge to full, at charger voltages as low as 13.8 volts. Victron specify 14.2 volts charge and 13.4 float as the default lithium garage voltage." Mike what is your view I've heard from one LiFePo4 manufacturer that the battery may charge at below 14.4v to full, but cell balancing will only occur at 14.4v - 14.6v ?
  15. I would not risk it without a B2B and appropriate cabling/fusing. If your van has a smart alternator how is the voltage/charge rate going to be controlled? If you want to maximise the life of your lithium battery, alternator, charger, control unit and cabling, install properly with a B2B etc so you are presenting the battery with correct voltage/charge and let the BMS be a last resort protection. Sorry, to me, I think its marketing bovine effluent to "drop in replace" (I have two LiFePo4's and LOVE them. We very rarely have EHU. I would not go back to lead-acid so I am a huge fan of LiFePo4 ....... but this "drop in" nonsense .......)
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