Guest ChrisB Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 I don't normally (in fact never before) venture onto this forum but I suspect a number of you may be able to answer my query. I tow a (unbraked) trailer with an Alko chassis and running gear with my motorhome. Returning from the latest trip the wheels appear to have a little "slack". Taking off the end caps there is a castellated nut and pin. I'm assuming this set up is for tapered bearings and I believe that the nut is not done up tightly but is meant to leave a little slack. However I think mine is a bit excessive (if it were a car then I'm sure it would be an MOT failure!). I've been told that the adjustment process involves tightening then slackening off the nut - but no more information was forthcoming. Can anyone give more detail e.g. procedure and torque settings etc? Should I remove and replace the grease? many thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 This .pdf http://www.alko.com.au/uploads/2008/12/Mechanical-Drum-Brakes-Replacing-Brake-Shoes.pdf relates to brake-shoe replacement on an Al-Ko chassis, but the type of hub 'retention system' (castellated nut & split-pin) matches your description of what's fitted to your trailer. The adjustment method given is as follows: "Adjust the wheel bearings by tightening the spindle nut until firm while turning the hub slowly to seat the bearings. Loosen the spindle nut and then re-tighten by hand (not with a wrench) to a “finger-tight” condition, then align the first notch with the hole in the shaft and insert the split pin." After following that procedure, if you lift the wheel clear of the ground, grab hold of it top and bottom, and try to 'rock' it in the vertical plane, you should expect to feel a small amount of slackness. As you say there is a lot of slackness currently, you'd be wise to check that the bearings aren't damaged. If there's not much grease, or it looks contaminated, then replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChrisB Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 Derek Thanks for that info. and link. I found a similar description on a trailer manufacturer's website (not my make) but it was not clear if the wheels/bearings were supplied by Alko. Torque settings of 20ftlb and 7ftlb were mentioned so I'll go for this method. Chris Now we can both get back to motorhomes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Just to re-emphasise that tapered-roller wheel-bearings are NOT adjusted using a torque wrench. The maker/supplier of the such bearings is academic, and it's highly unlikely that Al-Ko is involved with the manufacture of the bearings used on their chassis. The bearings will come from one of the several companies specialising in such products (eg Timken) and be marked accordingly. http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing-brands.php It's possibly 50 years since I last adjusted a tapered-roller wheel-bearing, but the essential principles involved are ancient and unchanged. The procedure may vary in fine detail, but basically comprises tightening the axle retention-nut while rotating the wheel until a perceptible 'drag' is felt. A technophile might want to repeat this process a number of times, untightening then retightening the nut each time, to ensure the bearings are properly settled. The final act is to move the retention-nut to a position where no 'drag' can be felt and then to fit the nut-retainer. With your castellated-nut arrangement you'd follow the procedure described in the .pdf I gave a link to. With, say, a VW Mk 3 Golf, there's a more subtle procedure where the retention-nut is gradually loosened until a specially-designed washer beneath the nut can just be moved by pushing it with a screwdriver. But the basic 'tighten up: loosen off' procedure is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChrisB Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Sorry I didn't make it clear on the last post. The torque settings I gave I think would have corresponded to the "firm" and "hand" tight settings in the description you posted. I missed out the final step which was to back off (up to) 1/6 rotation to align up the hole with the castellation. This appeared to correspond to the Alko pdf. Anyway, I phoned Alko earlier and he confirmed the procedure. Its good that they have someone prepared to talk to a member of the public. Should have tried it first I know, but the normal response I'm afraid now from many organisations is a polite can't help. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnP Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Always use a new split pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChrisB Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Thanks for all the advice. Did the job this morning - all seems fine (and I did use new pins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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