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Electrolux 3 way fridge


chelseamad7

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Hi,

Can someone give me some sound advice please.About 1year ago i started my fridge up using gas,it worked perfect.

The problem i have now is the re-ignighter will not work.What i have done so far to try to correct this problem is as follows.

1.checked the 1amp fuse its ok.

2.took off the LIVE NEUTRAL and EARTH spade connectors and replaced with new.

3.Cleaned the terminals with emerycloth.

4.Checked battery supply all good.

5.The switch does not light up.

6.There is no audible clicking sound coming from the re-ignighter.

I am now at a loss the only thing i can think of is the RE-IGNIGHTER unit itself is faulty.Can you please tell me if this can be tested,if so how.

Last resort is a new/secondhand unit any idea of the cost.

There might be something i have overlooked,,please advise me.

Lastly i dont think its anything to do with the thermocoupler,though i could be wrong.

Thank you for your help.

Chelseamad7.

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Chelseamad7

 

It’s not easy to advise on this with no details of the model of Electrolux fridge you have.

 

Assuming that a) your fridge has some age (as you’ve used “Electrolux” to describe it) and b) it’s a traditional 3-way type that has been marketed for over 20 years, it’s probably going to resemble this one conceptually:

 

http://www.grasshopperleisure.co.uk/dometic-rm4181-fridge-1754-p.asp

 

The fridge’s fascia carries 3 illuminated rocker-switches. The green switch should be lit when the fridge is operating on 230V, the red switch should be lit when the fridge is operating on 12V, and the orange switch should flash when sparks are being generated at the fridge’s gas-burner.

 

You say that the gas-igniter switch does not light up. This could just be because the bulb in the switch has failed, but you also say that there’s no audible indication (‘clicking’) to indicate that the igniter is producing sparks at the gas-burner.

 

My (limited) understanding is that the gas-ignition system of this type of fridge is pretty simple. If you move the orange switch to its “On” position, the switch should flash as the gas-igniter sparks at the gas-burner. The thermocouple operates separately, triggering gas re-ignition if the gas-flame goes out and stopping the igniter from sparking once the gas has been ignited at the burner. Consequently (as you’ve said) the thermocouple shouldn’t be an issue in this case.

 

If no 12V power is reaching the orange switch (and its lack of illumination suggests that may be so), or the orange switch itself has developed a fault that prevents it providing electrical power to the gas-igniter, then the gas-igniter will not spark. The first thing to establish, then, is whether or not there’s electrical power at the switch. If there proves to be 12V power at the orange switch and the switch proves to be OK, then the next step would be to explore why the igniter is not sparking (which would involve inspecting the igniter at the gas-burner). But the first priority is to check what’s happening at the orange switch.

 

As your fridge used to cool OK on gas (and, presumably, still cools OK on 12V and 230V), there’s no reason to believe the present problem can’t be rectified. The fridge might have to be removed to gain the access necessary to carry out the repair-task and – if you lack experience working on gas-fuelled appliances – you might think it wise to have the fridge attended to professionally. If your fridge hasn’t been serviced recently, a proper service would do no harm in any case.

 

If you haven’t got a manual for your Electrolux fridge, a copy can be downloaded from here:

 

http://www.electrolux.co.uk/Support/Manuals/

 

The price of a new or secondhand replacement would depend on which model of fridge you’ve got. You’ll be able to establish prices yourself via GOOGLE.

 

Some older Electrolux models of fridge will have been discontinued

 

http://www.obrienscamping.co.uk/Gas-Fridges.htm

 

and, in certain instances, replacement will be complicated when a current-model equivalent fridge has a significantly different design to the model it supersedes. But I don’t think you need concern yourself with replacement at this stage...

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Hi,

Thank you very much for your help.I found the problem,i traced all the wires checked all contacts,and found the terminals on the igniter had corroded quite a bit.I know they should not as they are a non-ferrous material.But cleaned them off and now all is fine.

Thank you again,

chelseamad7. :-) :-) :-)

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