Old Git Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 I just discovered Ultraseal - isn't it sad how sheltered some people's lives are!! If anyone else is as unaware as me, ask Mr Google for some information. It looks like the answer to a maiden's prayer, especially if you have no spare wheel or it is hidden under the centre of a van with the new lowered Sevel chassis - even lower with a flat at one corner! Hope I'm not being naughty here by giving this sales URL, but this site is very informative, and the eBay seller is one of the best I have ever dealt with. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ULTRASEAL-chester-your-Authorized-Distributer_W0QQitemZ130142826482QQihZ003QQcategoryZ21669QQtcZphotoQQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Apologies to all of you who have been using it for donkeys years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGD Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Hya OG - I guess there will be as many views about Ultraseal as there are posters on this forum. For what it's worth, here's mine - personally I wouldn't touch it again with a bargepole. I had it injected into my car tyres a couple of years ago - and got instant steering wobble. After a lot of hassle, they paid for me to take car to a garage, where they stripped the stuff out, washed the wheel rims, and very carefully reinjected the "correct" amount the second time.....no explanationas to why the 1st treatment was an incorrect amount. Wheels then rebalanced. Testdrive.....instant and violent steering wheel wobble. Back to garage, wheels off, tyres off, gunge washed out, tyres abck on, rebalanced again, wheels refitted............prefect balance. I spoke the the garage guy again a few months later, who said he'd been getting load of cars in to have the stuff taken out again from this particular Ultraseal franchise (of course it may be that the problem is with them, and not with the product generally) as customers were complaining about wheel balancing problems. He said that the problem is that the stuff stays semi-liquid (a sort of gloopy green gunge) inside the tyre.....that's possibly ok if only a tiny bit is inserted, as it would form a thin band around the tyre, inside of where the tread runs on the outside, BUT becuse it's a liquid, he said it "puddles" in the bottom of the tyre when the vehicle is stopped for any length of time, and he said that centrifugal forces then make more of it stay in one place rather than spread out evenly ouround the tyre when next you drive away.....thus leading to wheel balancing problems. I don't know about the science of what he was saying, but certainly I had the problem - twice! I did at the same time as they were 1st injecting it into my car tyres, also get them to do the tyres on my mountain bike. Dead loss. The tyres still lost pressure over a preiod of weeks, just as they had before. I've left the stuff in them, but still have to pump up the tyres each week or so. A couple of other points to think about too: Garage guy said that the stuff only spread around the internal tread area of the tyre as you drive along, NOT the beaded edge between the tyre and the wheel rim. Thus in his opinion there's absolutely no way that the stuff could ever protect against air leakage from the tyrewall/wheelrim bead joints. Garage guy also said that it buggers up (his words!) the tyre valve - if you do have cause to want to add/subtract air pressure from the tyre after it's in there, he said there's a strong risk of the valve becoming jammed. Even according to the Ultraseal people themsleves, the wheel needs to be driven for a period after injection to allow the stuff to spread - so remember that if you are tempted to get it put into your spare tyre. Sorry to burst the bubble, but I was tremendously unimpressed with this stuff!! Cheers, Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Git Posted August 18, 2007 Author Share Posted August 18, 2007 Thanks for this Bruce - there's no substitute for personal experience. I shall hope to get a couple more responses from here, and shall then think very carefully. I was intending to inject the stuff myself, so one possible cause for your wheel wobble would be eliminated as I would be careful to use the correct amount. Having looked into it in some detail, I think (a blind guess of course) your bloke might have put in far too much of the jollop. My tyres are 215/70/15 and the recommended dose is about 350ml. That's not much more than a mug full, and after spreading it around as instructed I would think there's not much left to pool. Good points made however, and thanks again for your help. The main reason I am thinking of it is my new Sevel X2/50 chassis, which is too low to crawl under for the spare wheel, even before it drops down further at one corner due to a flat. It would normally be an AA job, but Mr Sod dictates that the flat would occur where the service might not be offered - like on the front drive. Like most patent medicines I doubt if it cures more than half the illnesses known to man!! Hmmmm. Would be grateful for anyone else's opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hymer634 Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Hi, just treated my Toyota Aygo, which I will be towing on an A frame - the main reason for doing it as punctures when towing might not be detected easily. There was a little vibration, as warned about in the instructions, at first but it soon cleared after running a few miles as instructed. I'm sure you are aware that you have to fully deflate the tire first, after jacking up and that you will need a good pump to reinflate a large motorhome tyre ! Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Git Posted August 18, 2007 Author Share Posted August 18, 2007 Thanks Alan. As Bruce said, different opinions are inevitable. I have a compressor so re-inflating should be no problem, but thanks for the tip. It's 15-all at the moment. Any more thoughts will be gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hymer634 Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Old Git, I was unsure about the rim seal holding and the ability of the pump to reinflate from flat, so I tried deflating and reinflating the spare first, on the basis that I could always take it to a garage air pump. However I've just realised that accessing the spare is your main problem so this advice may not be so useful ! Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trooper Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 As to blocking valves when testing presure, just add a little air to blow out any gunge, cheers :-> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankkia Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 After having a rather dramatic blow out on a motorbike rear wheel some time ago I have always been concerned that it might happen again with more drastic consequences. When I first saw this stuff being demoed on Ideal World I thought what a good idea. I ordered it and when it arrived rode the bike to the local petrol station where I deflated the tyres. I added the stuff to the wheels and rode home slowly after reinflating the tyres to the recommended pressure. 2 years later and many miles have been travelled in a lot of different countries (It comes with us in the 'van) and the pressure is still the same. It has given me peace of mind and I am hoping it is not unfounded. I certainly think it is a better idea than the one that comes with the new Sevel and Mercs i.e. no spare - just a 12v tyre inflator and similar sealant. At least the gloop is in there and has the possibility that it will stop the tyre going down rather than trying to get the sealant in and the tyre inflated whilst being sat on by a rather heavy 'van Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Git Posted August 19, 2007 Author Share Posted August 19, 2007 Thanks for this Bernie - much appreciated. I have the new Sevel (Peugeot version if there's any difference) and it does have a spare wheel, tucked away right under the centre of the van and needing a spanner to get it off. The new lowered chassis is great, except if you have to get under it - with one corner even lower because of the flat, whilst laying in a puddle, with snow blowing horizontally up the trouser leg of your best suit, and of course in the pitch darkess of a deserted country lane!! Oh - I forget to mention the pile of fox crap. (Hypothetical situation, but we all know and love Mr Sod.) I think I might put the gloop in, sparingly after Bruce's earlier warning, and I'll do the decent thing and report back for the benefit of anyone else who is interested. Might be a couple of weeks though, but I won't forget. Thanks again to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastiand Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 I have had Ultraseal gunge in my Hymer tyres for a couple of years........ you never know if it works. It's a bit like getting pills from the doctor; would you have got better sooner without them? But the effect of a rear wheel blowout at 70mph in a 4 tonne vehicle in the outside lane of a German motorway can be a bit more serious than the effects of an aspirin! You could of course elect for 'tyron' bands to prevent the tyre from escaping from the rim but some garages hate changing tyres on Tyron wheels and often charge extra. I don't know why you say that the tyres have to be deflated. If you go to any of the big motorhome shows an Ultraseal demo and fitting service is usually available. They come round and inject a measured amount while there is still air in your tyre. You obviously lose some pressure but they quickly re-inflate with their compressors. It's a very small price to pay for a potential life saver. As a post script I have changed all 4 of my tyres recently, the garage wasn't bothered at having a load of red gunge in the tyres and I will renew the ultraseal option as soon as possible. I tried at the Aberdeen Ultraseal agent but after travelling from Inverness to Aberdeen for fitting he was in Dundee and had forgotten the appointment! Not a good advert for Ultraseal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Git Posted August 20, 2007 Author Share Posted August 20, 2007 As promised a preliminary opinion. I put the jollop into the tyres this morning, taking great care to ensure I used just the right amount after Bruce's earlier comments. A bit of a fiddle shoving bits of wood under the suspension, but no real problem. Have just done 6.7 miles to spread the stuff around and was unaware of any wheel wobble at any speed up to about 65mph. A promising start, but will post further comments if things go wrong later on. A couple of points from Sebastiand's post:- Tyres have to be deflated for self-installation, and again referring to Bruce, it seems he might have used a very unreliable installer - see his mention of the garage man who knew of a lot of motorhomers who had used the same installer and had problems. For this reason I chose to take full control of the job, and fortunately I have a compressor in my workshop, otherwise I would still be pumping! It didn't cost much less to do it myself, but I know the correct amount is in there so one variable has been eliminated if I do get problems. Ultraseal is blue now, with cute little black specks of something or other. Blue is easier to see (apparently) if you get a puncture and a drop leaks out - regular tyre checks are suggested in case you pick up a nail. The gunge will seal the leak, but the nail obviously needs removing a.s.a.p. and the blue colour helps find it. That's the theory anyway. It is also very readily water soluble, and washes off quite easily in case you ever did need to remove it. Thanks again to all or the comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tp002c784tp002c784tp Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 Hi Old Git I had ultraseal installed in my Lunar Telstar on a Renault Master at the Peterbourgh show this was done on the first day of the show and I did not leave until the monday, I did not find any unbalance of the wheels, The installer has a table of the right amount of fluid for the size of your tyres so there is no risk of putting to much in. my reason for having the treatment done is I feel I am getting to an age that I do not fancy crawling under my vehicle to change a wheel, even if you have breakdown service you will still have the inconveinance of wating for them to attend and as you say "Sods Law" it will be blowing a Hooley at the time. I do not think you have to de-flate the tyres to do this task my chap did not and I cannot see any advantage to do this. I beleive that this system is now used by the Police, Fire service, and Ambulance service although i have know proof of this One thing I can Gurantee is it will not save your Motorhome from being wrote off due to Floods as what happened to mine in the recent Evesham devastation Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Git Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 tp002c784tp002c784tp - 2007-08-20 7:57 PM The installer has a table of the right amount of fluid for the size of your tyres so there is no risk of putting to much in. Terry If you trust the installer - but first . . . My sympathy about your van in the Evesham floods Terry. We live quite close and it was pretty dire for a day or two. Hope you soon get it sorted - I bet you wept! I have installed Ultraseal for the same reason as you, but after reading Bruce's (BDG that is) comments at the beginning of this thread I thought it very likely that the dubious installer in question had, for whatever reason, made a fist of a good many installations. I am guessing of course, but it seems likely that too much jollop was inserted so it pooled in one place in sufficient quantity to induce an imbalance. For that reason I installed my own, just to be absolutely sure I knew exactly what had been done. Without the fancy and hugely expensive pressurised injection thingy, you have to remove the valve core and deflate the tyre, then squirt the stuff in through a tube by squeezing the bottle. It seems likely that Bruce and a number of others suffered from an installer who, in a nutshell, couldn't care less about doing a good job. "Sod's Law" again as you say - it would be just my luck to choose the same one, so I did it myself. If I've cocked it up I shall admit it on the forum (in between sessions of enthusiastic self-flagellation) but like yours, it seems OK so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I have been using Ultraseal, Tyresafe, and another which I can't remember the name of at the moment, for many years, never had a flat yet, but perhaps I have not had a puncture, as It is suppose to repair instantly in one revalution of the wheel. I have been told that if you no longer require it in the tyres for any reason, it can be washed out with water. A friend of mine had a blow-out with it in and the tyre stayed on the rim, but bits of rubber came through the floor and wrecked his shower tray. Having said that, he always overloaded his back axle anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tp002c784tp002c784tp Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Hi Old git Yes we wept for a long time as we had installed a lot of goodies fitted at Peterbough show it was our first holiday in it and looked forward to our break and peformed great in our first week, and to my knowledge its still on the camp site as they have not recovered it yet, but because of my constant phone calls to the insurance they decided to right it off without seeing it, so the cheque is on its way but I dont think I will get a bargain like I did with the Lunar. I looked at the e bay site for the ultraseal and I think its very expensive, they claim the kit will do one motorbike or one caravan wheel and if thats the case it could take a few of these kits to do one 16inch wheel on a Motorhome, I only payed £69 for 4 wheels at the Peterborough show. Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Git Posted August 26, 2007 Author Share Posted August 26, 2007 Very sad Terry I know just what you mean about the extra goodies as I have spent a long time "tweaking" our new van, and I thought at the time how devastated I would be if ours was among those we saw floating around on the TV news. Easy to say I know, but at least none of your family were hurt, and I'm sure you will find a great new van and enjoy it all the more - in a cockeyed sort of way. You might even get another bargain if you wait a while. There will be a number of poor souls in your position keeping the price of this year's models up for a while as they replace written off vans, but if you can wait a bit until the demand dies down there are sure to be some bargains to be had. Re: Ultraseal. I did a bit more research before taking the plunge and did my van for a bit less than £38. There are conflicting opinions (note "opinions") on how much should be inserted in each wheel, so I got hold of the definitive Ultraseal data sheet and found that I needed only two 700ml bottles for all four wheels. Thanks to you and everyone else for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Git Posted August 27, 2007 Author Share Posted August 27, 2007 Old Git - 2007-08-26 5:19 PM Re: Ultraseal. I did a bit more research before taking the plunge and did my van for a bit less than £38. There are conflicting opinions (note "opinions") on how much should be inserted in each wheel, so I got hold of the definitive Ultraseal data sheet and found that I needed only two 700ml bottles for all four wheels. Thanks to you and everyone else for the input. P.S. That's tyre size 215/70/15 if anyone else is thinking of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Syd Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 I have a caravan and I am having new tyres and tyron bands fitted this week, been running on ordinary car tyres for over three years it seems, anyway I intend to have some kind of ultraseal added to the caravan and the towing vehicle next week. Might do it myself or maybe not, Im well capable of doing it but a bit wary of getting my hands dirty these days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Syd Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 CAUTION: If applying to a car, motorhome, or caravan, etc, support the weight of the vehicle off the tyre being treated with a jack. It is not necessary to lift the tyre off the ground. 1. Ensure that the valve stem is not at the 12 o'clock position (either the 5 o'clock or 7 o'clock position is best). Remove the valve core using the tool provided, deflating the tyre. Take care not to lose the valve core! 2. Screw the nozzle onto the bottle and snip off the end so that the tubing will be a tight fit. Fit the other end of the tubing ½" over the open tyre valve. 3. Refer to the chart supplied with the bottle to determine the number of units required for the size of tyre. The bottle holds 25 units and a small calculation will be needed to establish when to stop. 4. Hold the bottle upside down (like a hospital drip) and gently squeeze the required amount of Ultraseal into the tyre using the calibrated scale on the side of the bottle. After each squeeze of the bottle let the air in the tyre blow the bottle back into shape (and clear the tube) or turn the bottle upright and slacken the top slightly to allow a little air to enter. This will enable the bottle to recover its shape and the correct level to be read (with the tube empty). If the top of the bottle is tapped the Ultraseal will settle and enable the level to be read more accurately. When the recommended amount of Ultraseal has been installed gently ease the tube off the tyre valve to avoid spillage. 5. Wipe the valve stem clean and pump a little air into the tyre in order to clear any Ultraseal from inside the valve. Replace the valve core and inflate the tyre to the manufacturers recommended tyre pressure. Refit the valve cap. Wash or wipe away any residual Ultraseal from the tyre and wheel. 6. On motorcycles put the exact amount in the front tyre first. The rear tyre may then be given up to 10% extra, which is beneficial. After Ultraseal has been installed the vehicle will need to be driven for a few miles at a moderate speed to distribute the product over the entire interior surface of the tyre. This can be done at any time, hours or days later. For the first few miles a slight imbalance might be felt whilst Ultraseal distributes within the tyre. After this Ultraseal will remain evenly coated on the inner surface. Ultraseal cannot cause out of balance problems, but must be installed in correctly balanced wheels. Regular visual tyre checks are recommended, as normal good practice. Tyre pressures can be adjusted at any time. Check tyre pressures when the tyre is cold and always use good quality valve caps. When the tyre requires replacing please ask the tyre fitter to deflate the tyre before cracking the bead, otherwise a small amount of Ultraseal may escape from the bead. Ultraseal is non-toxic and no special precautions need to be taken, other than good working practice. Ultraseal is compatible with tyre mounting solutions, which should be used sparingly according to the manufacturer's instructions. The following is taken from Ultraseal UK's literature supplied with the DIY kits: Now that your tyres have been Ultrasealed you will be protected against all straightforward punctures except very large ones, sidewall punctures and excessive tyre damage. In the event that you experience a soft tyre but cannot see any tyre damage, just inflate the tyre to full pressure and continue with the use of the vehicle, as some punctures occur whilst the vehicle is coming to a stop not giving the product a chance to work. When a puncture occurs whilst the vehicle is in motion Ultraseal will work within seconds. Should a puncturing object be found after the vehicle has been stationary for a while, it must be driven a few hundred yards to allow Ultraseal to loosen up and spread, before removing, then continuing driving to allow Ultraseal to cure in the punctured hole. If it is not convenient to drive the vehicle immediately, a slight tap with an heavy object can be applied to the area just above the puncturing object as it is removed to shock Ultraseal into the hole. Rubber has memory, so allow a little time for the hole to shrink if the object has been in for a long period. Driving the vehicle, thereby flexing the tyre, will help in the process of shrinking a hole that is slow to close up. After use, any re-capped unused Ultraseal in the bottle will have a shelf life of up to 5 years. Installing the correct amount of Ultraseal will not create a balance problem. Pre-existing balance problems should be corrected prior to installation. Front motorcycle and scooter owners, front rims over 2.5" wide and rear rims over 4" wide should be dynamically rather than statically balanced. It is important to recognise that not all balance problems are tyre related, many problems come from lateral movement of the wheel, worn shockers, loose or worn out front end components, improperly adjusted/loose or damaged wheel or head race bearings, and finally excessive flat spots on the tyre or an out of round tyre or rim. How To Seal A Punctured Tyre With Ultraseal: Ultraseal can be used to seal a hole in a tubeless tyre. If the tyre personnel inspects the damage, and is assured that the wound is caused by a puncturing object that is less than 6mm in diameter, the cords are not severely damaged, the tyre has not been run flat, and the wound is free of any foreign substance then the proper amount of Ultraseal can be installed. After installation, pull the puncturing object out and rotate the tyre or drive the vehicle to allow the tyre to flex. Inflate the tyre to the proper air pressure. We do not recommend the use of Ultraseal to repair a punctured tube. How To Repair A Tyre Containing Ultraseal: Tubeless tyres. Ultraseal is a permanent repair, but in the event you may want to repair a damaged tyre dismount the tyre and wipe the Ultraseal away from the damaged area with a damp rag, dry the area that is to be repaired, buff and repair as normal. If the repair (including mounting and dismounting) is completed within 2 hours it is not necessary to remove the remaining Ultraseal from the tyre (Ultraseal will start to cure after 2 hours in a tyre that has been removed from the rim). Remount and add any additional Ultraseal that may have been lost through the wound or that was removed to perform the repair. Tube type tyres. Tubes can be easily repaired. Ultraseal will not cause a problem, simply spread the tube over a work area. Move the Ultraseal away from the damaged area by applying finger pressure on the tube and pressing away from the damage, thereby forcing the Ultraseal away from the wound. Wipe the area with a damp rag, dry thoroughly and repair as normal. We recommend using a hot patch. If you do use cold patches, be aware that some tube adhesives are affected by Ethylene Glycol (a chemical used in the Ultraseal formulation). These types of adhesives are not common, and usually found in the earlier DIY kits, however they are not compatible. To check compatibility, rub Ultraseal on a dry sample of the adhesive. If the adhesive does not soften or dissolve, then there should not be any adverse reaction. Make sure after repairing the tube to replace any Ultraseal that has been lost. We recommend that radial tubes be used due to their superiority. UNDERSTANDING ULTRASEAL In 95% of punctures Ultraseal will just get on with it and seal them safely without you ever knowing you have had one, but below is a guide to help you understand what may have happened if you get a flat tyre which has been Ultrasealed. Ultraseal needs rubber recovery in order to work effectively, and most importantly - safely. In other words the hole needs to shrink a little after the puncturing object has been thrown or removed from the tyre in order to trap the fibres, which log jam in the shrinking wound, whilst the liquid gel then seeps in and cures around the fibres. When Ultraseal appears not to have worked, it is usually because rubber recovery has not occurred because of several reasons, which may be: - 1/ A split or tear. 2/ A sidewall puncture. 3/ A very old tyre which will be hard, rather than supple. 4/ A screw that has been pulled out, rather than screwed out may enlarge a hole and rip cords. 5/ A jagged nail, screw or glass etc., which squirms about whilst the vehicle is in motion, tearing and ripping at the rubber and cords until the hole is enlarged. The hole may look small, but there may be a large cavity behind that small hole, so therefore there will not be sufficient tightness in the rubber to grip the escaping fibres, but the driver will have experienced a controlled deflation. Cords are instrumental in rubber recovery, and without cords a tyre will blow up like a balloon. When cords are severely cut the hole in the tyre will enlarge with increased air pressure, so in a moving vehicle Ultraseal will assist to give a controlled deflation as the hole shrinks with air loss and reducing air pressure. With Ultraseal, and a controlled deflation, a tyre will deflate at a rate depending on the extent of the damage, then as the tyre reaches the lower pressures of 10 to 15 psi a severe slow down or halt in air loss will be experienced as Ultraseal is now log jamming in a large hole that is shrinking in size because of these much lower air pressures. You will now be running on a very soft tyre instead of the wheel rim, which could mean the difference between keeping control or losing control. Safe sealing with our product is possible because we do not use chopped up rubber in our formulation that temporarily clog up large holes but miss the small ones. We use 5 different sizes of specially manufactured "coarse surface" synthetic fibres which become extremely strong when they interlock tightly together in the shrinking hole of a punctured tyre. A wheel arch that is covered with Ultraseal is a good indication that the tyre has experienced a controlled deflation. When any of the above occurs Ultraseal will give the driver a controlled deflation, and with or without re-airing possibly enable him/her to finish the journey. It is better to remove every nail you see in a tyre, but natural forces or Ultraseal lubrication will remove them eventually. Large ones should be removed as soon as possible, and near to a supply of compressed air if possible, in case the air loss in a stationary vehicle is excessive. A slight tap with a hammer to the area above where the nail is being removed will shock Ultraseal into the hole as the nail is removed. Centrifugal forces and flexing of the tyre when the vehicle moves will do the rest. If the hole is not excessive, but you lose all the air in the tyre after removing a nail, just blow it up to the correct pressure then quickly drive it a couple of hundred yards to allow centrifugal forces and Ultraseal to seal the hole. If you get a flat tyre after Ultraseal has been installed, it may indicate you had a controlled deflation or got the puncture whilst parking, not giving Ultraseal chance to work. If a controlled deflation is not evident because Ultraseal is not splattered all over the tyre guard, just re-inflate and drive on following the above guidelines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Syd Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 The RAC Foundation Tyre Pressure Fact File More than two million motorists in the UK are putting their lives at risk by never checking their tyre pressure or tread according to the RAC Foundation. * 20 per cent under-inflation can increase tyre wear by 25 per cent * 20 per cent under-inflation can reduce tyre life by 30 per cent * 20 per cent under inflation can reduce fuel economy by three per cent * 10% of cars are running on illegal tyres (under 1.6mm tread) * 90% of tyres are incorrectly inflated * Tyre makers estimate that three quarters of accidents caused by "blowouts" are down to incorrect pressures * Under-inflated tyres cause a reduction in the overall control of the vehicle and increased braking distances * Over-inflated tyres cause poor vehicle handling, reduced stability in braking, cornering and reduced grip * Check tyre pressure monthly, air escapes at a rate of 2lbs every month, more during warm weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Syd Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Also available in Extra Heavy Duty formula for Agricultural, Quads, Grass Cutters, Plant & Hgv Load-bearing Tyres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Git Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 Strewth Syd! I'm in danger of developing a rubber fetish after all that. Interesting stuff though - gives confidence that it has been properly tested and researched. (Bloody good bullshine if it hasn't!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Syd Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 You started me off mate Thanks anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Syd Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 You started me off mate Thanks anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Syd Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 email advice I have received and accepted, all I have to do now is to decide wether to put tyron bands onto the Sedona first Syd, you need 15.5 units per car tyre (215/65 R15) and it’s best to put half a bottle (12.5 units) in each caravan tyre (175/70 R14) so you will need 112 units altogether. We can do a 5 bottle kit (containing 125 units) for only £97.50 all included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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