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Damp


Carolmonkey

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So many alleged damp checks by dealers are no more than a scam to get the p/x value down, but it seems to work as some sellers, once they hear the word damp, are petrified into getting rid asap.

 

A few simple precautions help avoid 'false' readings whatever the time of year.

Empty the lockers and open up air circulation to all the walls and especially the joints and corners.

Use a dehumidifier in the van for a day or two before getting the van damp checked.

Any signs of mould, blackness, spots etc wash and dry the affected areas.

It may only be surface condensation but it does not look nice and it does draw the eye of those looking to find problems.

Use a fan to help circulate the air.

 

Having got the van dry you have a much better chance of locating any damp ingress, if indeed there is any?

 

I use one of these and the readings are always lower after than before and I see no need to spend silly money on anything more sophisticated.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00478VCMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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It's a common problem I'm afraid.

 

First, you need to establish you actually do have ingress, and why and where exactly.

 

Drying it out is futile if you don't do any remedial work to cure the problem/point of entry.

 

It would help if you could be more specific regarding the area concerned.

 

You should have been handed a 'plan' of where the high moisture content is - also make sure that check included ALL the bodywork, including underneath.

 

Is this a British or Continental built van?

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It's always important to have an annual habitation check which could highlight the first stages of a damp or water ingress problem. I have to agree that some dealers exaggerate a damp problem when exchanging motorhomes and my answer to that is to first ask for an up to date calibration certificate for the damp meter they are using and then show them the one that you have taken along with you to double check their findings. My own is a Protimeter Mini complete with a calibration certificate to prove that it has had a factory calibration.
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  • 2 years later...

Problem with the usual type (compressor) dehumidifiers is they don't work well at low temperatures, and are useless below about 5deg C

They need a difference in temperature between room temperature and the cooling condensor radiator - which still has to be above freezing point. :-S

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  • 4 months later...
Bucket - 2019-01-18 11:32 AM

 

Problem with the usual type (compressor) dehumidifiers is they don't work well at low temperatures, and are useless below about 5deg C

They need a difference in temperature between room temperature and the cooling condensor radiator - which still has to be above freezing point. :-S

Sorry I should have quoted in my reply re the tubular heater comment (lol)

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