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Dometic RM 7361L Selector not working


dialler9833

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Hi

 

Van (Bessacarr E495 2008) came back from MOT & Service and afterwards (looks co-incidental to me) I noticed that the fridge selector is not working.

 

I've taken of the control facia and checked the voltage on the permanent DC connection and it's fine.

 

So, my conclusion is that the PCB is faulty. Is there anything else to check before either replacing the PCB or just getting a new fridge (it's quite rusted at the rear where the vent is, so might make sense to go this route)? ie. is there anything fixable on the PCB itself?

 

Much appreciated.

 

Jim

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Hi Jim and welcome.

 

We also have an RM 7361 in our AutoTrail!

 

Is the selector switch actually 'clicking' and registering the selection correctly or just turning freely back and forth?

 

I ask as there are two small plastic shafts connecting the temperature and selector knobs to the PCB and they are very prone to failure. I had to replace the one for our temperature knob a few years ago so know it well.

 

Keith.

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Just a thought. Could it be that the polarity has somehow been reversed on the permanent DC connection? The service engineer for the MOT etc (not done at a camper shop) has accidentally pulled out plug / wire somewhere and put it back the wrong way round?

 

If so, I'd have no idea where to find it!

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dialler9833 - 2021-04-27 3:44 PM

 

I've taken of the control facia and checked the voltage on the permanent DC connection and it's fine.

dialler9833 - 2021-04-27 5:36 PM

 

No, they don't light at all now, though they have previously worked as expected.

When you checked the voltage at the PCB terminals was this with or without the fridge turned on?

 

If the fridge was off then you may have a loose or corroded connection which allows sufficient current for your meter to read but fails as soon as you try to draw any power.

 

Try testing the voltage at the PCB with the fridge turned on.

 

Keith.

 

PS And what voltage did you measure at the PCB?

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Keithl - 2021-04-28 5:31 PM

 

[When you checked the voltage at the PCB terminals was this with or without the fridge turned on?

 

If the fridge was off then you may have a loose or corroded connection which allows sufficient current for your meter to read but fails as soon as you try to draw any power.

 

Try testing the voltage at the PCB with the fridge turned on.

I took the permanent DC connection out of the PCB and checked the voltage directly at the connection. It measured roughly what the control panel above the door was telling me was on the battery, 13V or so.

 

I'll check the voltage with the fridge turned on and report back.

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747 - 2021-04-28 5:27 PM

 

The light intensity of the indicator lights can be adjusted by a black knob behind the fascia. Maybe it just needs turning up. ;-)

Hadn't spotted that knob, will check it. However, doesn't fix the fact that the selector isn't working at all.

 

Thanks for the tip though.

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dialler9833 - 2021-04-28 8:39 PM

 

747 - 2021-04-28 5:27 PM

 

The light intensity of the indicator lights can be adjusted by a black knob behind the fascia. Maybe it just needs turning up. ;-)

Hadn't spotted that knob, will check it. However, doesn't fix the fact that the selector isn't working at all.

 

Thanks for the tip though.

Just taken a look, there's no dimmer on my model.

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dialler9833 - 2021-04-28 8:37 PM

 

I'll check the voltage with the fridge turned on and report back.

It's a bit fiddly, but I can't find any voltages coming through the PCB with the fridge turned on. I'll check again tomorrow. But looks like perhaps the selector itself is faulty.

 

Out of interest, does the fridge 230v heating element run on a straight 230v AC connection? If so, can I create a temporary connection for EHU, bypassing the PCB?

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dialler9833 - 2021-04-28 10:17 PM

 

dialler9833 - 2021-04-28 8:39 PM

 

747 - 2021-04-28 5:27 PM

 

The light intensity of the indicator lights can be adjusted by a black knob behind the fascia. Maybe it just needs turning up. ;-)

Hadn't spotted that knob, will check it. However, doesn't fix the fact that the selector isn't working at all.

 

Thanks for the tip though.

Just taken a look, there's no dimmer on my model.

Sorry about that. My 7 series fridge/freezer has this facility.

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747 - 2021-04-29 9:02 AM

 

dialler9833 - 2021-04-28 10:17 PM

 

dialler9833 - 2021-04-28 8:39 PM

 

747 - 2021-04-28 5:27 PM

 

The light intensity of the indicator lights can be adjusted by a black knob behind the fascia. Maybe it just needs turning up. ;-)

Hadn't spotted that knob, will check it. However, doesn't fix the fact that the selector isn't working at all.

 

Thanks for the tip though.

Just taken a look, there's no dimmer on my model.

Sorry about that. My 7 series fridge/freezer has this facility.

A bit posh, eh?

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Derek Uzzell - 2021-04-29 6:47 PM

 

747 - 2021-04-29 9:02 AM

 

...Sorry about that. My 7 series fridge/freezer has this facility.

Idle curiosity, but what model of Dometic fridge/freezer have you got, please?

Sorry for the delay Derek, it's a Dometic 7655L.

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Just another thought on this before I get a professional to look to the fridge PCB:

 

Does the permanent input DC voltage (to work the PCB) come from the cab battery or the leisure battery, by default?

 

The selector / fridge stopped working around the time I took the van in for its annual cab service / MOT. Could it be that something was put in back-to-front that reversed the polarity of the input to the PCB? If so, is reversing the polarity a good thing to just try, or will it destroy the PCB if it is wrong?

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Keithl - 2021-05-05 3:08 PM

 

A multimeter will TEST whether the polarity is correct or not. Just reversing the polarity may lead to letting the smoke out!

 

Keith.

Very true, but no fun!

 

Do you know which battery it comes off (the permanent connection that is).

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dialler9833 - 2021-05-05 4:26 PM

 

Very true, but no fun!

 

Do you know which battery it comes off (the permanent connection that is).

Almost certainly the leisure battery, most probably via the control panel but should not be switched off via the panel.

 

I've just been looking at the wiring diagram for our AutoTrail but unfortunately it doesn't show the permanent connection!

 

Do you have the wiring diagram for your Bessie?

 

Keith.

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I have just found the wiring diagram for a 2008 Bessie hidden on the Sargent website...

 

https://sargentltd.co.uk/tech-support/article/25/download/265

 

Page 3 shows a permanent live from the NE184 fuse unit 'JP11' connection via a N/P (Brown/Purple) wire to the fridge.

 

I cannot find a fuse layout for an NE184 fuse unit so is that included in your owners handbook?

 

Keith.

 

Edit: Just found out that an NE184 is Nord Elettronica unit!

 

https://assets.swiftgroup.co.uk/swift-group/handbooks/2016%20Owners%20Handbooks/2016%20Motorhome%20Handbook/09_Electrics.pdf

 

And to add, fuse info on page 80 states

 

Fuse Rating Fuse colour Description

1 20 Amps Yellow * Motorhome Fridge 12V

2 15 Amps Blue * Motorhome Towing

3 7.5 Amps Brown * Motorhome Marker Lights

4 15 Amps Blue * Motorhome Fridge D+

5 10 Amps Red Extractor Fans / Heating Systems

6 10 Amps Red 12V Sockets / TV Amp / ***Radio

7 10 Amps Red Front Internal Lights

8 10 Amps Red Water Pumps / Toilet

9 15 Amps Blue * Electric Step

10 10 Amps Red * Motorhome Tank Heaters

11 10 Amps Red ** Auxiliary Supplies

12 5 Amps Tan Electronics / Fridge / Alarm

13 5 Amps Tan Oven Ignition / * Water Heater

14 10 Amps Red Rear Internal Lights

15 25 Amps Clear Charger (fitted internally to PSU)

 

So fuse 12 looks to be the permanent supply.

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Ok, three lamps that show what is being used to work the fridge.................Gas, 240v and 12v.

If yours is the same then recently I had a panic when the 12v lamp would not light up. Then I remembered the 12v only works when the MoHo engine is running. >:-(

 

B-)

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Keithl - 2021-05-05 5:33 PM

 

I have just found the wiring diagram for a 2008 Bessie hidden on the Sargent website...

 

https://sargentltd.co.uk/tech-support/article/25/download/265

 

Page 3 shows a permanent live from the NE184 fuse unit 'JP11' connection via a N/P (Brown/Purple) wire to the fridge.

 

I cannot find a fuse layout for an NE184 fuse unit so is that included in your owners handbook?

 

Keith.

 

Edit: Just found out that an NE184 is Nord Elettronica unit!

 

https://assets.swiftgroup.co.uk/swift-group/handbooks/2016%20Owners%20Handbooks/2016%20Motorhome%20Handbook/09_Electrics.pdf

 

And to add, fuse info on page 80 states

 

Fuse Rating Fuse colour Description

1 20 Amps Yellow * Motorhome Fridge 12V

2 15 Amps Blue * Motorhome Towing

3 7.5 Amps Brown * Motorhome Marker Lights

4 15 Amps Blue * Motorhome Fridge D+

5 10 Amps Red Extractor Fans / Heating Systems

6 10 Amps Red 12V Sockets / TV Amp / ***Radio

7 10 Amps Red Front Internal Lights

8 10 Amps Red Water Pumps / Toilet

9 15 Amps Blue * Electric Step

10 10 Amps Red * Motorhome Tank Heaters

11 10 Amps Red ** Auxiliary Supplies

12 5 Amps Tan Electronics / Fridge / Alarm

13 5 Amps Tan Oven Ignition / * Water Heater

14 10 Amps Red Rear Internal Lights

15 25 Amps Clear Charger (fitted internally to PSU)

 

So fuse 12 looks to be the permanent supply.

Thanks for this, Keith, I'd clocked fuse 12 a while back, unfortunately it's fine! I'll take another look to treble check, but pretty convinced that's not the issue.

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lancepar - 2021-05-06 12:42 PM

 

Ok, three lamps that show what is being used to work the fridge.................Gas, 240v and 12v.

If yours is the same then recently I had a panic when the 12v lamp would not light up. Then I remembered the 12v only works when the MoHo engine is running. >:-(

 

B-)

I've had that scare in the past too! Unfortunately that's not the issue here. The selector simply isn't doing anything.

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