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Driving a M. H. For first time fiat/peugot???


Colin1325

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Hi again can anyone help... We're still looking for a m. H. But not easy. We have now seen a few. But always been something wrong so didn't bother with test drive... We found a swift suntor on a fiat 84000k 2.8 d the wife like it and the price.. But.. I took for a test drive and it was a bit like driving a 7 tonne truck and steering was like an old movie where you move the wheel constantly too and frow to keep it going straight.. The eccellerator and clutch peddles felt like I was trying to push a nail in with me foot lol very heavy Anyway I left that one..very noisy..accelerator not to responsive Question is are all fiat ducato similar to this. Or maybe that one was past it.. Do all m. H. Feel like that?

Are peugot lighter feel on clutch and gas. Or maybe it's me colinb still looking Cornwall

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You haven’t mention the age of the vehicle you test drove. I drive a 2003 A class on a fiat 2.8jtd base vehicle. It steers much like a car, hands off it stays in a straight line, clutch and throttle similar to our car although it’s fair to say that the clutch is a little heavier but not as heavy as say an older Landrover Defender. The only difference to driving a car is that it’s a heavy vehicle so should be driven like a lorry (expect slow speed build up), and in high winds will be pushed around much more than a car so dropping speed on a motorway with strong cross winds is sometimes wise. Sounds like the vehicle you test drove was suspect.
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Hi thanx 2000i did have a go in a fiat car once and to be fair it was pretty awful I drive a citroen grand piccasso at mo and find it light on peddles. I'm looking at a slightly younger fiat soon with far less miles on it so I'm hoping to give it a test drive Tues.. I haven't tried a peugot yet. I know peugot cars are a lot easier on the feet so maybe I should try one
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First, Fiat Ducato, Peugeot Boxer, and Citroen Jumper (or Relay) vans all come from the same factory. The only differences between the Fiat Ducato and the PSA Boxer/Jumper versions are the engines (and their electronic control systems) and drive train elements. As they are all commercial vehicles, intended fir high mileages with minimal maintenance, it is unlikely you will notice much difference between them from a driving viewpoint. There will obviously be some differences between individual vehicles of the same marque due to age and mileage, and there will also be differences between the "generations" as the vehicles have evolved over time. There will be further differences between vehicles of the same marque where engine sizes differ (all marques have, and do, offer different engines) and where maximum permissible weights vary. So, there is no simple answer to your question. But, it is likely that you will find that the clutches are noticeably heavy compared to car clutches, as a car clutch only has to transmit the power to move in the order of a tonne, whereas the clutch on a motorhome is being asked to transmit the power to move over three tonnes.

 

Check what maximum weight of vehicle your driving licence allows you to drive, and remember that this will reduce when you reach 70 years of age unless you pass a medical examination, and that this will repeat every three years thereafter.

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Don't rush into buying a motorhome take your time look at a lot. There not like driving a car and unless your used to a larger vehicle you'll not feel to at home behind the wheel. They have all vastly improved over the years so the newer van your looking at will be more comfortable to drive prior to around 2007 a 2.8 engine was better but since then the 2.2 is possibly as responsive.

 

You shouldn't notice much difference in Fiat, Peugeot or Citron

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Thanx brian I took my test in 1970 so I’m ok to drive . And I understand about the difference in weight .. so what your saying is that the clutch and Eccelorator pedals will have the same resistance wen pushed down ? I’m not sure I can understand that as it infers that if I’m driving a 40 tonne lorry I would need assistance to get those peddles to the floor ass surely they would be effected in the same way ?Colinb
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Cheers mate we have looked at a few pity there are only limited m.h. Companies down here .. and the second hand good ones all seem to be snapped up very quickly ..I’d love to get a newer one but not gonna happen so we would have to have an older one I’m afraid .. there are some low mileage ones about but last time I mentioned low mileage here I got “ you need one that’s does about 10000 miles a year “ lol I think they are more difficult to find than the low mileage ones ...I reckoned that the low mileage ones would at least not be engine tired and after looking at mot history on gov. site I’ve been getting an idea of the stuff they can fail on wen not used more frequently .. it’s a trade off on prices I suppose ... I’ve heard a lot of bad things about problems with new vans. As well but hey ho colinb
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Got to say I totally disagree. Our 2017 Eldiss and earlier 2015 Swift are the easiest vehicles I've driven and the most comfortable. And that's from a driver who's had countless BMW 3 and 5 series and a few Jags inc XF, XKR and S type. I love driving the M/H and would choose it over my other three cars for a long journey.

,

That doesn't help you really so I'd suggest you hire one for a couple of days or take one for a test drive from a local dealer to really get a feel for it. Yes it's different, but different doesn't mean worse it's just different. Tbh not found the pedals heavy, maybe just the one you tried?

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Colin1325 - 2019-05-26 4:06 AM

 

I took my test in 1970 so I’m ok to drive ...

 

Colinb

 

Colin,

 

So if my maths is correct that makes you at least 66. Don't forget you would then need a medical at age 70 to retain your Cl licence.

 

Try driving different models to just those on the Fiat/Citroen/Peugeot chassis to get a better comparison. Ford Transits and Mercedes Sprinters where also very popular alternatives. We have owned our 2004 Sprinter for over ten years now and love it!

 

Colin1325 - 2019-05-25 1:36 PM

 

... and steering was like an old movie where you move the wheel constantly too and fro to keep it going straight..

 

From experience the steering wandering issue can be caused by many things but the most likely is tyre pressures. Ideally the pressures need to be set to match the actual axle weights and not some generic 'one size fits all' pressure for maximum weight.

 

And as for pedal pressure and performance, these are commercial vehicles so you will just have to get used to heavier pedals and slower response than modern cars.

 

Keith.

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ColinM50 - 2019-05-26 9:19 AM

 

Got to say I totally disagree. Our 2017 Eldiss and earlier 2015 Swift are the easiest vehicles I've driven and the most comfortable.

 

ColinM50,

 

Unfortunately you are comparing 2015/2017 vehicles to the 2000 variant Colin1325 tried, so these are very likely to be chalk and cheese comparisons! The older vehicle will feel very different to the more modern equivalent. Have you owned any MH older than the 2015 or was this your first?

 

Keith.

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Keith, you're right and that's why I mentioned which M/h's I'd owned. Don't doubt an older one will be different, so suggest try a more modern one to get a full all round experience. It'd be easy for Colin to assume all m/h's drive like the one he tried and give them all a bad name
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Guest pelmetman
Colin1325 - 2019-05-26 3:45 PM

 

Thanx for that beggining to think it may of been a poor van I certainly wouldn't have wanted to drive it for a long time maybe I should hire a Luton van for a day on my local roads... Is your a fiat or peugot colinb

 

I get the feeling you've led a sheltered life vehicle wise ;-) ........

 

Perhaps you should hire a camper? :D .......

 

My Tugger brother did......and he didn't like the noise :-S ........

 

How he could hear anything over the noise of his yapping poodles is beyond me *-) ......

 

 

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Keithl - 2019-05-26 9:52 AM

 

Colin1325 - 2019-05-26 4:06 AM

 

I took my test in 1970 so I’m ok to drive ...

 

Colinb

 

Colin,

 

So if my maths is correct that makes you at least 66. Don't forget you would then need a medical at age 70 to retain your Cl licence.

 

Try driving different models to just those on the Fiat/Citroen/Peugeot chassis to get a better comparison. Ford Transits and Mercedes Sprinters where also very popular alternatives. We have owned our 2004 Sprinter for over ten years now and love it!

 

Colin1325 - 2019-05-25 1:36 PM

 

... and steering was like an old movie where you move the wheel constantly too and fro to keep it going straight..

 

From experience the steering wandering issue can be caused by many things but the most likely is tyre pressures. Ideally the pressures need to be set to match the actual axle weights and not some generic 'one size fits all' pressure for maximum weight.

 

And as for pedal pressure and performance, these are commercial vehicles so you will just have to get used to heavier pedals and slower response than modern cars.

 

Keith.

hi your prob right on the tyre pressures mate I can see that could of been prob that’s something to think about next test drive
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Colin1325 - 2019-05-25 1:36 PM

 

But.. I took for a test drive and it was a bit like driving a 7 tonne truck and steering was like an old movie where you move the wheel constantly too and frow to keep it going straight..

That bit alone would be enough for me to walk away from buying. At best maybe the wheels had been 'kerbed' throwing the tracking out of alignment but worst case, a worn steering rack which would prove expensive. Either way the kind of steering wander you describe is totally unacceptable for driving.

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Tyres can have a huge effect on the drivability of a large vehicle. In 1998 we bought a 31ft RV to tour the US and the steering was initially awful, wandering all over the place. My wife tried driving it but was so concerned she had to stop and thought it dangerous. I took it to a garage and they advised me to drop the pressures as they were set to the maximum load rating for the tyre rather than to suit the weight of the vehicle. The handling was instantly transformed to the extent it was like a whole different vehicle. There was no science about what pressure was used, just the mechanics advice but he obviously knew what he was talking about and we never had any tyre problems in a year.

 

The worst steering I have ever experienced was in a hired VW Type 2. It was so baggy it was comical but at the speeds it could travel at it was more of a laugh than a problem, but that was only for a long weekend.

 

No problems with our 2014 Fiat Ducato which I think handles quite well considering what it is.

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Colin1325 - 2019-05-26 4:05 PM

 

Hi I don't believe you need a medical as far as I'm aware as long as your not going blind or have any other issues there would be no reason to not be allowed to renew your licence

 

Sorry but according to the Gov.uk website you must get medical form D4 completed to retain Class C1 at age 70.

 

https://www.gov.uk/renew-lorry-bus-coach-licence/45-or-over

 

Quote "Ask a doctor to complete the medical examination report (form D4)

You can ask an optometrist or an optician to fill in the vision assessment section if your doctor cannot complete the whole report. The doctor, optician or optometrist will normally charge for this."

 

Your own GP may charge anything over £100 for completing this form but there are travelling HGV doctors who will complete it for less.

 

Keith.

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Re the medical, this only applies if you are driving, or intend to drive a vehicle that has a maximum allowable mass (MAM) (or weight) weight exceeding 3.5 tonnes. That is where your C1 category driving licence comes in. Over 3.5 tonnes MAM you need the C1 licence, which entitles you to drive vehicles up to 7.5 tonnes. As you passed your driving test in 1970, you have what a usually called "grandfather rights", giving you the C1 licence. However, at your 70th birthday you lose those rights unless you pass the required medical. You do not lose your driving licence, just the right to drive those over 3.5 tonnes MAM. You can continue to drive vehicles up to, and including, 3.5 tonnes MAM.

 

This has nothing to do with the actual weight of the vehicle as you are drive it - it is the maximum permissible vehicle weight as shown on the plate that has the vehicle chassis number, or vehicle identification number (VIN), stamped into it. It doesn't matter what the vehicle actually weighs (so long as it isn't over-loaded :-)), just whether its plated maximum weight is 3.5 tonnes or less, or is over 3.5 tonnes.

 

Motorhomes tend to be heavy, and motorhomers tend to want to carry all kinds of stuff in them! Once a motorhome exceeds about 6 metres in length it begins to lack a truly practical payload allowance. The more it exceeds 6 metres, the lower the payload becomes until, at some point, it has an insufficient payload to be used in the real world as a motorhome. Many manufacturers produce the odd long, spacious looking, motorhome with a minimal payload simply because so many potential motorhomers don't have the C1 licence, but want a lot of space. It's just another of those annoying little facts of motorhome life that to get a good, workable, van at 3.5 tonnes maximum weight, it needs not to exceed 6 metres in length by too much. Sorry if this is all a bit confusing, but it is all part of getting the right van for the way you want to use it. :-) Changing vans is costly, so it is worth making sure you get it right first time.

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Colin1325 - 2019-05-26 3:45 PM

 

Thanx for that beggining to think it may of been a poor van I certainly wouldn't have wanted to drive it for a long time maybe I should hire a Luton van for a day on my local roads... Is your a fiat or peugot colinb

 

I suggest you drive several motorhomes that are within your budget - then you’ll have an idea of what their basic characteristics are.

 

It’s largely a waste of time comparing a Year 2000/84k mileage motorhome with a recent model - you need to compare like with like.

 

Even in 2000 accelerators tended to not be cable-operated, so excessive pressure on the pedal itself should not be necessary.

 

A motorhome cluitch will normally be significantly heavier than that of a car and its gear-change will generally be less slick. My 2015 Ducato’s clutch is a lot heavier than my 2009 Skoda car’s and the latter’s featherlight gear-shift is far superior to the Ducato’s. That’s not to say that those factors make the Ducato difficult to drive, but they certainly don’t make it easier.

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Following Brian's comments on length and space we had one at 6.5 M length and space was the premium, it gave us two separate areas and we carried no extras ... and I mean none ... we went for the quietness and scenery watching.
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On my third M/H in 11 years and they have all been good in there way but have only driven Fiat or Peugot . Started off with a Fiat based Trigano Tribute 3ltr Comformatic PV conversion, found it excelent to drive and easy to drive and use as it was 6mtrs. 6 years and 50k later changed to a Rapido Aclass on a 2.8 and found it a bit ponderous to drive (old technology) but comfort wise and no bed to make up it was the van for us for 3 years to longterm in. Then as it became difficult for my better half to access the dropdown bed due to hip problem we went back to newer tech on a Peugot (Euro5) based twin bed end bathroom van and although it sounded more industrial than our 1st van (Fiat) it was like diving a car compared to the Rapido. 3 years on we have gone back to Fiat on a modern Aclass and its a dream to drive and although on only 2.3 its 150bhp (on a comformatic) brings it up to the power range of our 1st 3ltr van we had. As regards tyres we put winter tyres on the Rapido and stayed on them due to original set being knackered. Very noisy but excellent in the weather they are designed for. I put winter tyres on the peugot van but stored the originals and got them changed over in spring. However these winter tyres were excellent I and could not notice any difference between them in noise or consumption. So thats my experience so far so pick out he best advice you get but its all on the day, you will know if you like the van and it drives well it will feel the right thing to do. The rest is down to providence.
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Our 2015 À class Challenger on a Ducato chassis is lighter on steering, clutch and peddles than any of our cars, and only one of them has a lighter gearchange!

 

Straight line stability is excellent except in strong crosswinds and you get used to the 'tail wag' from the long rear overhang when overtaking HGVs.

 

However! The OP's description reminded me of our previous 1992 Hymer/Ducato, which fitted most of his description and drove like the 22 year old commercial vehicle chassis that it was. It didn't stop us taking it as far as Venice, treating it with respect and as an adventure.

 

Vans and chassis have advanced enormously over the years - you pays your money, you takes your choice, but don't expect modern handling from an older vehicle and don't let that put you off!

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Brian Kirby - 2019-05-26 11:03 PMthanx brian so my original thought is as I read it as obviously I wouldn’t want to drive anything that big. Colin

 

Re the medical, this only applies if you are driving, or intend to drive a vehicle that has a maximum allowable mass (MAM) (or weight) weight exceeding 3.5 tonnes. That is where your C1 category driving licence comes in. Over 3.5 tonnes MAM you need the C1 licence, which entitles you to drive vehicles up to 7.5 tonnes. As you passed your driving test in 1970, you have what a usually called "grandfather rights", giving you the C1 licence. However, at your 70th birthday you lose those rights unless you pass the required medical. You do not lose your driving licence, just the right to drive those over 3.5 tonnes MAM. You can continue to drive vehicles up to, and including, 3.5 tonnes MAM.

 

This has nothing to do with the actual weight of the vehicle as you are drive it - it is the maximum permissible vehicle weight as shown on the plate that has the vehicle chassis number, or vehicle identification number (VIN), stamped into it. It doesn't matter what the vehicle actually weighs (so long as it isn't over-loaded :-)), just whether its plated maximum weight is 3.5 tonnes or less, or is over 3.5 tonnes.

 

Motorhomes tend to be heavy, and motorhomers tend to want to carry all kinds of stuff in them! Once a motorhome exceeds about 6 metres in length it begins to lack a truly practical payload allowance. The more it exceeds 6 metres, the lower the payload becomes until, at some point, it has an insufficient payload to be used in the real world as a motorhome. Many manufacturers produce the odd long, spacious looking, motorhome with a minimal payload simply because so many potential motorhomers don't have the C1 licence, but want a lot of space. It's just another of those annoying little facts of motorhome life that to get a good, workable, van at 3.5 tonnes maximum weight, it needs not to exceed 6 metres in length by too much. Sorry if this is all a bit confusing, but it is all part of getting the right van for the way you want to use it. :-) Changing vans is costly, so it is worth making sure you get it right first time.

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