Fgg226 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Having problems with boxer / ducato non starter 2007 2.2d Codes d701. D601 Cranks but won’t start Have tried second hand Ecu kit but still same Any help please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Any dashboard lights on - like the padlock showing the immobiliser / not communicating with the ignition key? (PS: The coil around the ignition lock barrel sends a wireless signal to the chip in the key. If it doesn't get the right signal back the padlock should stay lit, and the engine crank but not start.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fgg226 Posted November 6, 2018 Author Share Posted November 6, 2018 Turn ignition on all dash lights normal .no padlock light on for few seconds then comes on and stays on .cranks as normal but won’t start Have tried complete second hand Ecu kit and still same problem Have done all the usual checks on wiring behind fuse box and under passenger headlight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
witzend Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 https://www.fiatforum.com/ Have a look at this site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Fgg226 - 2018-11-06 4:32 PM .no padlock light on for few seconds then comes on and stays on .cranks as normal but won’t start It won't start if the padlock light is on. Might be a defective key - do you have a spare to try? If that doesn't work take off the covering around the ignition key barrel and check the 2 thin wires running from the coil around it to the ECU. Has someone fitted an interruptor switcjh as part of an immobiliser system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroserv Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Hello, Been too busy to look here for a couple of days but since i had a Cornish garage call me today and ask this same question i thought i would have a gander! I had a similar problem not long ago and it was found to be a broken wire between the ECU and the firewall where the loom goes into the cab. The wire was apparently responsible for 'waking up' the ECU and was failing to send the appropriate command from the body computer. This makes the ECU believe that the engine is being turned over without the immobiliser code and obviously refuses to start. If it is not this, i hope that the garage have already checked the CAL 5 fuse on the positive battery terminal. This can have the same effect. But they must have checked that, mustn't they? I only wish i could find a way of making a living out of this! N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthur49 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 euroserv - 2018-11-07 5:22 PM I only wish i could find a way of making a living out of this! N Maybe you can? Trouble is you'd need to be pretty mobile ...... and how about towing a 3.5t + ramp 8-) Seriously Nick if you were anywhere near me I'd be happy to pay you as a Consultant :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fgg226 Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 Would willingly pay for your knowledge and advice And sure others would too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
witzend Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Yes thanks for all your contributions I only wish I could remember it all. Pity there's not a like or thanks button for us to clik on this forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 euroserv - 2018-11-07 5:22 PM Hello, ............................................................ If it is not this, i hope that the garage have already checked the CAL 5 fuse on the positive battery terminal. This can have the same effect. But they must have checked that, mustn't they?............................................. N Please I am confused by the above statement. It is my understanding that the CAL x range of fuses are generally used as starter motor fuses. If this fuse had failed, I would not expect the srarter motor to crank the engine??? Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 I am not sure but think Nick is referring to the fuses as part of the Starter battery positive clamp, one of which is the Starter cable feed, one is the Alternator feed. don't know what the others are for, but presumably feed to various accessories, devices, like body computer? See photo of X250 Starter battery box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Allan, Thanks for the picture, which is similar to my x244. The CAL fuse is the one on the right, connected to the thick red starter motor cable at the bottom of the picture. This fuse is not fitted on my x244. The other fuses will be for the alternator as you suggest, and if similar to the x244 the remaining fuses are for, the engine bay fuse panel, and the RHS cab fuse panel. The LHS cab fuse panel, is connected via the engine bay panel. However that does not help the OP, but I expect that Nick's suggestion of a faulty wire/connection to the ecu, will take some time to investigate. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Alanb - 2018-11-08 8:48 PM Allan, Thanks for the picture, which is similar to my x244. Alan The picture is from my Citroen Relay. But its a 2008 Manufactured 2.2 so it should be the same as the OP's Ducato. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Alanb - 2018-11-08 8:48 PM I expect that Nick's suggestion of a faulty wire/connection to the ecu, will take some time to investigate. Alan As I put in earlier posts the 2 thin wires run from the coil around the ignition lock barrel to the ECU. As Nick says, chafing her they go through the bulkhead is a strong possibility. But we are talking very low voltages here so all connections need to be perfect. Plugs and sockets need checking obviously. If someone has cut one of these wires in the past to fit an immopbiliser switch, and rejoined them somewhere, the join may have corroded sufficient to stop the ECU communicating with the key. Producing exactly the symptoms the OP describes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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