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Might seem a bit extreme


Fiat Ducato

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Might seem a bit extreme, but those who know my previous works, will know I tend not to cut corners or do quick bodge jobs.

 

So out comes the rotted battery tray, removed all the wiring which was currently routed under the battery, getting very wet and damage from leaking battery at some point. I have ordered a brand new geniune Fiat replacement battery tray, I have removed all the loose rust with a wire brush, I will be treating the worst rust areas with Jenolite before applying 2 layers of metal anti corrosive paint, fitting the new tray, then re routing the wiring loom and starter cable and earths to sit snuggly under the wing up in the corner. where it stays dry. I have also order a battery cover for the top which I will use straps to hold it down which should help to keep that area dry.

 

Noticed the earth to the left hand side (LHD) side with battery, the terminal was crimped not soldered (welded)and no heat shrink was used (probably didn't exist back in 1997 lol) so water as got into it and corroded the cables inside.

 

Another job for me to do, I will be crimping the new terminal and soldering as well before applying heat shrink to finish it off.

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Fiat Ducato - 2019-01-16 10:59 AM

 

...........................................................................

 

Noticed the earth to the left hand side (LHD) side with battery, the terminal was crimped not soldered (welded)and no heat shrink was used (probably didn't exist back in 1997 lol) so water as got into it and corroded the cables inside.

 

Another job for me to do, I will be crimping the new terminal and soldering as well before applying heat shrink to finish it off.

 

Paul,

 

Crimping has been the preferred method of termination for electrical power transmission and distribution cables for many years. It does require the correct match of cable, crimp, and die for correct execution. That being said, I share your conservative attitude towards crimping in hostile motor vehicle enviroments. My approach has been to apply a thin smear of vaseline, or silicone grease to the exposed parts of the conductor and crimp terminal, in an attempt to prevent ingress of moisture at these points. If you are set on soldering, in which I have over 70 years of experience, I think that you will find soldering the large earth cable problematical. You will need either a gas torch, or a high wattage soldering iron, perhaps both. In either case there is the risk of melting the cable insulation, which can be partly mitigated by wrapping a few turns of electrical tape round the end of the insulation. The risks of using a gas torch should be obvious, and if using one it would be safer to carry out the work off the vehicle.

 

As regards heat shrink sleeving, it was invented in 1962 by Raychem. I remember applying shrunk on plastic caps to the ends of railway signal levers in the early sixties, and using what we would now recognise, in electronic applications about 20 years later. Before that a Hellerman rubber sleeve was used on electrical terminations. Application was by means of special 3 jawed "pliers". The three narrow jjaws were at a right angle to the handles. The sleeve was pushed over the jaws and then streched for application, by squeezing the handles.

 

On reconnecting the earth cable, and others as appropriate, I reccommend a smear of heavy gease or vaseline betwween the terminal and the chassis. This should exclude moisture, and thus prevent corrosion under the terminal.

 

Alan

 

 

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Alanb - 2019-01-17 12:40 PM

 

Fiat Ducato - 2019-01-16 10:59 AM

 

...........................................................................

 

Noticed the earth to the left hand side (LHD) side with battery, the terminal was crimped not soldered (welded)and no heat shrink was used (probably didn't exist back in 1997 lol) so water as got into it and corroded the cables inside.

 

Another job for me to do, I will be crimping the new terminal and soldering as well before applying heat shrink to finish it off.

 

Paul,

 

Crimping has been the preferred method of termination for electrical power transmission and distribution cables for many years. It does require the correct match of cable, crimp, and die for correct execution. That being said, I share your conservative attitude towards crimping in hostile motor vehicle enviroments. My approach has been to apply a thin smear of vaseline, or silicone grease to the exposed parts of the conductor and crimp terminal, in an attempt to prevent ingress of moisture at these points. If you are set on soldering, in which I have over 70 years of experience, I think that you will find soldering the large earth cable problematical. You will need either a gas torch, or a high wattage soldering iron, perhaps both. In either case there is the risk of melting the cable insulation, which can be partly mitigated by wrapping a few turns of electrical tape round the end of the insulation. The risks of using a gas torch should be obvious, and if using one it would be safer to carry out the work off the vehicle.

 

As regards heat shrink sleeving, it was invented in 1962 by Raychem. I remember applying shrunk on plastic caps to the ends of railway signal levers in the early sixties, and using what we would now recognise, in electronic applications about 20 years later. Before that a Hellerman rubber sleeve was used on electrical terminations. Application was by means of special 3 jawed "pliers". The three narrow jjaws were at a right angle to the handles. The sleeve was pushed over the jaws and then streched for application, by squeezing the handles.

 

On reconnecting the earth cable, and others as appropriate, I reccommend a smear of heavy gease or vaseline betwween the terminal and the chassis. This should exclude moisture, and thus prevent corrosion under the terminal.

 

Alan

 

 

Hi Alan

Thank you for sharing your knowledge especially regarding heat shrink tubing never knew it has been around that long. Learn something knew everyday as they say.

 

With regards to soldering or welding the cable, I have an heavy duty hydraulic crimper with die's going right upto 80mm. I use it to crimp most of my connections/terminals and it does a very strong and tidy job, I always do it some that all the copper wires fit nicely in the housing and that once crimped the cable sleeve sits flush against the terminal try not to have it so the sleeve was cut off too long showing copper wires once crimped, poor practise in my opinion, I then apply the correct size heat shrink over that joint and shrink it on till the adhesive starts to flow out. In areas were a bit more care to completely make it water tight especially on battery terminals, earth straps etc. I tend to dip the ends of the copper wire in flux, then crimp it then with a brazing torch heat the terminal end in holding in a pair of vice grips whilst applying solder, I find the solder flows nicely into the terminal. Obviously not with battery in situ, I would remove the battery first and make everything safe before procedding. Not got 70 years experience in soldering but done a fair bit from mobile phones to computers, pcb boards circuits, electronic devices, designed and built working circuits etc. More of an hobby for me. What is your stance on soldering wires/cable on vehicles cars etc, inside the vehicle. There always seems to be mixed opinions regarding this, some say soldering is much stronger and better joint for auto electrics as crimps tend with vibration to come loose. Whilst the other half will tell you that crimping is better as solder over time and due to constant vibration can fracture and fail.

 

I always been taught that soldering a joint properly and correctly, by means of stripping back the sheath, splaying the copper wires and then interlocking them before twisting them together and then proceed to solder that joint with heat shrink applied afterwards will be a very strong join. And that that the cable is likely to fail elsewhere rather than the soldered joint.

 

Love to hear your views and opions on this Alan.

 

 

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