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Outer Hebrides - how long should I allow.


peterjl

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Hi.

This May we are looking at driving up the islands from Barra in the south to Harris in the north.

I have been looking a guide books and searching the forums and are unsure how long to allow to travel up the islands stopping off for walks and to see the high lights.

 

I have initially allowed about 14 days but......

It’s not a big distance but I like to be doing so we won’t just stay somewhere where there is nothing to see or do.

 

I appreciate that it’s a bit of a “how long is a piece of string” question but I would be interested to hear how long others have spent on the islands.

 

Peter

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I found a month was long enough to get around but it all depends what you like to do and see.

 

If you are a townie you will hate it, if you are a lover of windswept, peaceful, fabulous (if chilly!) beaches and coastline then you will love it!

 

I don't know about now but ferries always used to be easy to book same day so we just went for as long as it took and enjoyed wandering and delving about one day at a time!

 

It all depends on how long your bit of string is!

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We went for three weeks last Sept/Oct and it wasn't long enough. Travelled from Oban to Barra and dropped down to Vatersay for a few days before making our way north through the islands. Managed a brief excursion to Lewis in the last couple of days, but could have done with more time to explore North Harris and Lewis. Absolutely magical place with fabulous scenery and walking. Beaches that could put the Caribbean to shame with (for me) much more palatable climate. We also took a day trip to St Kilda from Leverburgh with Sea Harris. Somewhere I've wanted to visit for over 30 years and wasn't disappointed.

 

Would go back to the Outer Hebrides tomorrow if I had the chance. If you love the outdoors, wildlife, hills, sea and walking, like I do, you could spend months there. OTOH if all you want is to see a few tourist sites and take a few photographs, you can probably travel through the entire archipelago in a week.

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We took about three weeks travelling north to south - Butt of Lewis to Vattersay - ( as I had read somewhere that the scenery gradually improved if we went in that direction ! )

 

That seemed about the minimum time required to have a relaxing trip, as the roads are narrow, and so you don't go anywhere fast.

That, to me , is one of the attractions of the place.

 

Beautiful place - great walking / cycling - and just sitting down and appreciating the views.

 

If that is what YOU like " to do " - then it's a great place to be !

 

It's a few years since we were there, so hopefully it hasn't changed too much.

 

Have a good trip.

 

;-)

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Thank you everybody. That was very useful.

 

I think I will up my planned time to 3 weeks as that seems a good compromise. I can be flexible and either reduce or increase as seems appropriate but at least I now have a better idea.

 

We enjoy walking our Labrador so lots of walking but I am also a keen photographer so that will prompt some of our trips.

 

Peter

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I was still working when i went so had just three weeks leave available which wasn't really enough. I used one of CalMac's Hopscotch tickets which gives you pre-paid access to every ferry and left the mainland at Ullapool across to Stornoway > Harris > Uists > Benbecula and Barra. On the return leg i also spent a few days on Tiree before leaving for Oban.

 

So not too bad though certainly i could have used another week and i lost out on St Kilda as trips there are weather dependent and mine was cancelled. When on Barra i took a day trip visit to Mingulay which is an uninhabited island with lots of Puffins but also Skuas. Locals call them "bonxie" birds and if they have any young around, beware because these birds are fearless and will dive bomb you at a great rate of knots.

 

As Deneb said, the beaches are incredible and almost "Caribbean" in appearance with white sand and crystal clear azure sea. Only difference is as welcoming as the sea water looks....it's damn cold!!

 

Enjoy your tour but my tip would be to allow maximum amount you can.

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We had a 30 day Cal Mac hopscotch ticket , and left Stornaway on the last day, plenty to see and do, plenty of wildcamping spots and good campsites are available, we went South (Barra) to North (Lewis) and had a great time , Be aware that a lot of the Tourist information offices have closed ?? crazy.

 

too windy for midges, May is a good month to go. Have a great trip.

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Tracker - 2019-02-26 6:07 PM

 

I went in May, no midges, too bloomin cold - it snowed - a lot!!

 

I went in Sept, no midges, too bloomin windy - and it rained - a lot!!

 

Thats nothing. you wanna try camping on a beach on Orkney at the end of October in a tent and your tent getting attacked by angry Seals a three in the morning. Thats hardcore that is! Seals dont like me very much, one attacked my Kayak of the coast off Arran a couple of years ago. 8o|

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Barryd999 - 2019-02-26 6:17 PM

 

Tracker - 2019-02-26 6:07 PM

 

I went in May, no midges, too bloomin cold - it snowed - a lot!!

 

I went in Sept, no midges, too bloomin windy - and it rained - a lot!!

 

Thats nothing. you wanna try camping on a beach on Orkney at the end of October in a tent and your tent getting attacked by angry Seals a three in the morning. Thats hardcore that is! Seals dont like me very much, one attacked my Kayak of the coast off Arran a couple of years ago. 8o|

 

Those seals showed great good taste in giving you their seal of disapproval!

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A couple of points which have been covered before on this forum albeit I have not been to the Outer Hebrides since 2014.

 

Unless things have changed (and you should check) It is not worth buying a hopscotch ticket now because of Road Equivalent tariffs pricing model. The ticket simply adds up to the total of each leg. I think Cal Mac promote it just because some customers like the idea of a package but actually it limits flexibility and an ability to change plan.

 

Ferry availability may be impacted by tidal issues, weather, technical problems or whatever. Additionally because ferries are relatively cheap day trips to and from some places can use up capacity which can be a problem for businesses and locals getting off the island for medical appointments. So keep in touch with Calmac by website phone on at an office to make sure about availability as choice of ferry time and/or availability on a preferred day or time may be limited and booking some days ahead may be necessary.

 

Calmac is an efficient operation with some super ships and a cheerful and helpful crew. They also have an excellent app containing updates about delays or cancellations etc.

 

Change down a few gears and get into the pace of island life. If todays ferry is cancelled relax and go tomorrow.

 

Given decent weather the sail from Oban to Barra will live in your memory. Barra is especially scenic and peaceful. Our planned two days turned into four even though you can drive right round the island in an hour or two.

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HymerVan - 2019-02-27 6:32 AM

 

A couple of points which have been covered before on this forum albeit I have not been to the Outer Hebrides since 2014.

 

Unless things have changed (and you should check) It is not worth buying a hopscotch ticket now because of Road Equivalent tariffs pricing model. The ticket simply adds up to the total of each leg. I think Cal Mac promote it just because some customers like the idea of a package but actually it limits flexibility and an ability to change plan.

Interesting point which as you say is worth checking out. From memory i think my only limit was start point to finish though it was so long ago now i can't be 100%. Another reason i opted for a Hopscotch was at the time the one i chose gave the *free bonus* (probably wasn't 'free'!) option to visit Coll or Tiree on the return leg and i chose Tiree.....mainly out of an interest thing as my elderly ex-RAF neighbour had been stationed there at a radar installation. Now long abandoned i took lots of photos for him. There is a little airport on Tiree though none can beat Barra airport which is one of only two in the world where the beach is the runway.

 

I agree with Hymervan man, Barra really is beautiful and i have lasting memories of that little island. Another "must see" for the op is the wreckage of the ww2 Catalina which crashed on Vatersay.

http://www.501places.com/2013/07/catalina-on-vatersay/

 

Barry & Tracker, i was on the Hebrides in June/July and good weather throughout apart from the one day i'd hoped to go to St Kilda which was just bad luck and i hadn't any time spare to hang around. I had no trouble with midges there though i have on the Inner Hebrides.

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pottypam - 2019-02-27 3:36 PM

 

If you do think of going to Tiree, be aware that Motorhome overtnighting is strictly controlled and has to be booked in advance.

 

See http://www.isleoftiree.com/out-about/camping-and-campervans/

Oh dear.....more restrictions creeping in. :-(

 

When i visited you could literally park anywhere and i found a cracking little spot overlooking the beach and sea. So lovely and peaceful i made it "home" for the three nights i was on there. Spent money at the little cafe and shop, drove round to different areas (doesn't take long!), then returned "home" for the evening.

 

But this was a time you could also park up overnight by Barra airport beach runway to watch the planes land...now they've stopped that too. Fragile environment etc, but it's ok for that land wrecker Trump to build his silly golf course and hound locals out of their homes. :-|

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Most of the sites are close to beaches and the sea and puts some money into the pockets of the crofters.

 

Also used to park at Barra airport beach but understand why it has been stopped. Once saw a caravaner dig a hole on the shoreline and bury his toilet contents there!

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Things are not as free and easy as they used to be due largely to pressure of numbers. Too many motorhomes and not all are as considerate as they should be. This leads calls for them to be banned in some areas. Just today a friend was complaining that 2 had set up camp in the street just a few feet from her front windows and blocked her view for which she had paid lots of money. I will not even attempt to take my van to Barra now as present conditions would spoil my good memories. If you have never been it should be ok for you as it is a new experience so do not let my negative views put you off.
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pottypam - 2019-02-27 7:44 PM

 

Most of the sites are close to beaches and the sea and puts some money into the pockets of the crofters.

Yes wherever i am i spend money locally. The free Aire i use to overnight at Bray-Dunes in France before setting off on tour, i spend money in the little town.

 

Also used to park at Barra airport beach but understand why it has been stopped. Once saw a caravaner dig a hole on the shoreline and bury his toilet contents there!

Gross....makes you wonder what they're like at home.

 

 

bodach - 2019-02-27 8:45 PM

 

Things are not as free and easy as they used to be due largely to pressure of numbers. Too many motorhomes and not all are as considerate as they should be. This leads calls for them to be banned in some areas. Just today a friend was complaining that 2 had set up camp in the street just a few feet from her front windows and blocked her view for which she had paid lots of money. I will not even attempt to take my van to Barra now as present conditions would spoil my good memories. If you have never been it should be ok for you as it is a new experience so do not let my negative views put you off.

Yes i think i was lucky when i toured the Outer Hebs as it was all free 'n easy then.....park up pretty much wherever you wanted. You can't do that in England, not even on motorway service areas which are limited to 2hr stays.

 

That's what i enjoy when i'm in Europe....most countries are perfectly ok with overnight 'wild camping' and Autobahn service areas in Germany, you could stay on any of those for weeks if you wanted to! Most have damn good facilities too....plenty of shaded areas, decent tables and seating, some even have barbecue points!

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

I notice someone has just opened another thread related to this to mention the observation of Sundays on the islands, what they refer to as the Sabbath day.

 

Yes it's fairly strictly observed unlike the mainland, and all they expect is for visitors to respect it. Where some folk might find the closure of shops a hindrance, i actually found it a joy and very peaceful. Even local biker boys respect it and one church i was parked nearby on Lewis, a group of young bikers rocked up on their sports bikes wearing full leathers and carrying bibles. Not something you'd expect to see on the mainland!

 

The religious faith changes from Calvinist 'free church' in the north (Lewis and Harris) to Catholic the further south, particularly Barra. But throughout the islands, the church is a very important part of island life. It's like a social scene for them.

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If near a Free Presbyterian church on a Sunday it is worth listening to the singing. No musical instruments allowed and led by a Precenter. You probably could not understand the words as most likely in Gaelic but the sound is very moving. If you went into the service the minister may well switch to English for your benefit. The natives are generally friendly and welcoming despite a somewhat dour appearance. Beware tho’ they are possibly better travelled than you are and better educated as well in many cases.
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  • 2 weeks later...
HymerVan - 2019-02-27 6:32 AM

 

A couple of points which have been covered before on this forum albeit I have not been to the Outer Hebrides since 2014.

 

Unless things have changed (and you should check) It is not worth buying a hopscotch ticket now because of Road Equivalent tariffs pricing model. The ticket simply adds up to the total of each leg. I think Cal Mac promote it just because some customers like the idea of a package but actually it limits flexibility and an ability to change plan.

 

Ferry availability may be impacted by tidal issues, weather, technical problems or whatever. Additionally because ferries are relatively cheap day trips to and from some places can use up capacity which can be a problem for businesses and locals getting off the island for medical appointments. So keep in touch with Calmac by website phone on at an office to make sure about availability as choice of ferry time and/or availability on a preferred day or time may be limited and booking some days ahead may be necessary.

 

Calmac is an efficient operation with some super ships and a cheerful and helpful crew. They also have an excellent app containing updates about delays or cancellations etc.

 

Change down a few gears and get into the pace of island life. If todays ferry is cancelled relax and go tomorrow.

 

Given decent weather the sail from Oban to Barra will live in your memory. Barra is especially scenic and peaceful. Our planned two days turned into four even though you can drive right round the island in an hour or two.

Totally agree with the above post. Buying single tickets as you go is by far the best way IMHO. Provides 100% flexibility, especially if the weather happens to cut up particularly rough.

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Going to disagree with a lot of this. We went to Outer Hebrides a couple of years ago and would not go back. i reckon two weeks is plenty of time to see all of interest, Scottish mainland, certainly from around level with Skye to the far North and across the top is far better without the need for messing around with ferries. We found lack of wildlife disappointing plus little of historic interest. Harris to us the best scenic, Lewis flat with little of scenic or historic interest, no towns or villages worth the bother. Few nice coastal bits but mainland coast is far better. We went to all the other main islands and although found just enough to do two weeks was plenty, and we had decent weather plus no midges. Sorry to be so negative but reckon the Outer Hebrides are very over hyped.
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Very interesting thread - thank you. We are heading over there in a couple of weeks and we’re planning on taking 3-4 weeks, which seems to be about right for a relaxed tour and lots of walking. We were going to buy an Island Hopper ticket but I think we will just buy separate tickets after reading this. Born in Scotland but it has taken us until we are 63 to venture over there - really looking forward to it and hoping the weather is kind to us.
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