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RM7655L fridge not working on 12v


Hymer fan

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Hi

I hope someone out there can help

My tec Tower fridge will not work on 12 v

Had the hymer b544sl 2009 about 12months

Fridge worked OK when I got it

Checked the back of the fridge with a Multimeter

And found no power to the heating element wire

Also no signal on the D+wire

Checked the permanent live behind the control panel on the fridge

Got 12v but no D+signal at the connector block

At the starter battery there is a 50amp fuse and a 2amp fuse

What I can't understand is the 2amp fuse is connected to the starter battery

Been in touch with udo lang & he said there is a 20amp fuse next to the starter battery

But I have looked all over but cannot find any 20amp fuse

Everything was pointing towards the electroblock 101 so sent it to apuljack

Came back as no problem found

So I am a bit flummoxed as to where to go from here

 

Thanks in anticipation

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Did you have the engine running when you checked for a 12 volt supply at the fridge?

 

There should be a wiring diagram online if you search. It could be possibly be a failed relay which puts power to the fridge and is normally fitted near the engine (don't know about an A class).

 

As the EBL has been cleared then try removing the lower fridge vent to check the connections there.

 

 

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There may be a small unit marked PLT02 near the EBL that has a 20 amp fuse in it that is for the fridge.

There is a download for the EBL119 at www.aandcaravanservices.co.uk in the Schaudt Elektroblock section that may help if you do not have it as it shows the connections to it ,including the D+ from the engine.

I think you will find that the relays for the fridge etc are inside the EBL119 which has been declared ok

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buddy - 2021-10-02 5:46 PM

 

There may be a small unit marked PLT02 near the EBL that has a 20 amp fuse in it that is for the fridge.

There is a download for the EBL119 at www.aandcaravanservices.co.uk in the Schaudt Elektroblock section that may help if you do not have it as it shows the connections to it ,including the D+ from the engine.

I think you will find that the relays for the fridge etc are inside the EBL119 which has been declared ok

Apologies, but the above link should read http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/ .

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Yes will have to trace the D+signal wire from the alternator

The alternator is in a very awkward place

Cannot see it from above so will have to crawl underneath

Does the D+signal wire go straight to the electroblock

& is the heater element wire connected to the electroblock

Because udo lang says check the 20amp fuse near the starter battery

But there isn't one anybody got any idea where this might be

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Is your 2009 Hymer built on a Ducato chassis? If so does it have the small body builders connection point located at the base of the 'B' pillar just behind the drivers seat? From previous comments it may be hidden behind a secret panel!

 

Keith.

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Check the 20amp fuses that are on there own on the far left of the fuses on the EBL also the one marked reserve 4 is sometimes used for the fridge.

The D+ goes in to the EBL at Block 2 (pin 3) via a 2 amp fuse according to the wiring diagram for the EBL 119 .

 

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Hymer fan - 2021-10-03 8:09 PM

 

Hi Keith

No it is a ALKO Chassis

I have not noticed a panel but will have a look

Next time at the storage

It may be an ALKO rear chassis but the forward section will still be Ducato and should have the 'hidden' body builders connection point just behind the drivers seat.

 

Keith.

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There is also a feed from the starter battery into the EBL for the fridge to pin 1 block 2 via a 20amp fuse which makes me think that there are a pair of fuses (2amp + 20amp) somewhere , sorry ,but I cannot help with the location.

Are you able to check the readings at the block 2 pins (engine running) to confirm that the D+ signal is not reaching the EBL at this point before trying to locate these fuses.?

 

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Hi buddy

At the starter battery there is a 50amp fuse & a 2amp fuse the 2 amp fuse is connected to the

Starter battery have tried to trace this cable but from the battery it goes under the rubber matting

& cannot trace without taking the seat out and the rubber floor up

There is no 20amp fuse near to the battery cannot find this

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Hi

Had another look at the wiring today

Can anybody tell me if you can wire an electroblock 101 up differently for the fridge

Looking at the wiring diagram for EBL is

Block 2pin5 live engine not running

Block 2 pin4 live engine not running

All the others no power

Even with engine running

Still not found 20amp fuse

Tried to trace D+signal wire from alternator

But lost it when it went into the harness

Will try to send photo

 

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Hymer fan - 2021-10-06 5:27 PM

 

Hi

Had another look at the wiring today

Can anybody tell me if you can wire an electroblock 101 up differently for the fridge

Looking at the wiring diagram for EBL is

Block 2pin5 live engine not running

Block 2 pin4 LIVE engine not running

All the others no power

Even with engine running

Still not found 20amp fuse

Tried to trace D+signal wire from alternator

But lost it when it went into the harness

Will try to send photo

 

I am looking at a diagram for "EBL 101 C" dated 30-09-2008.

 

If all connections are as shown in the diagram, BL2/4 (Block 2 pin 4) should never be live. It is the starter battery negative for the fridge, and is only connected internally to BL1/3, fridge -ve.

 

The fridge element +ve should be connected to BL1/1, or BL1/4 which are linked within the EBL (Electroblock).

 

The fridge D+ should be connected to BL1/2.

 

If the above three of the above BL1 are populated, then it is reasonable to assume that the fridge is connected in accordance with the diagram.

 

As suggested by buddy, it is possible that an AES fridge could be connected elswhere, and provided that it has the missing D+ connection, will function normally. With this configuration alternator charging of the habitation battery will suffer due to the extra voltage drops in the main (50 A) fuse, cable, and the split charge relay.

 

The EBL drawing calls for three connections with appropriate fuses at the starter battery. A 50A connection for charging the habitation battery from the alternator, a (not found) 20A connection for the fridge, and 2A for starter battery sensing. (Function queried by OP.)

 

The fact that BL2/4 appears to be live, suggests a missing -ve connection for the fridge. However there seem to be missing +ve supplies as well.

 

If the vehicle is operated on EHU, it seems possible to me that habitation system could function without a connection to the starter battery. It may well be worth checking connections at the converters panel.

 

I have warned about misleading readings given by very sensitive modern multimeters in previous threads. Such meters can give a plausible reading via a relatively high resistance. A simple 12V test lamp is often a more certain indicator of the presence of a 12V supply.

 

Alan

 

 

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