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Rapido 924f 2.8 2004


Davidhood999

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Hi everyone, we are newbies to the world of motorhomes and are out only for the second time in our Rapido 924f and we are loving it although we do keep coming across things we didn't think of or niggles that we're not sure about :-)

 

Anyway, I'm hoping someone might be able to help us work out what's happened to our water system. We thought we'd ran out of water (we may well have done) the other day as our taps started spluttering whe turned on so we went to Asda and bought 50 litres to tide us over (we have a 120 ltr tank) thinking that his would sort it, I should add that our heating started blowing out cold air too.

 

So we chucked 50 litres in but that hasn't helped, in fact things seem a bit worse as when we turn the mixer tap to hot nothing comes out. Also when we try running cold water the tap continues to splutter, not only that but the water pump continued to run intermittent for a bit and now just runs continuously. Needless to say we've turned the water pump off to try to avoid any / further damage. It went through my head that we may have a leak but we haven't noticed any water dripping from underneath as I'm sure we would if we lost all that water that quick. Also I wondered if there may be damage to the water pipes due to them containing water when I'm told in the winter one should drain water from the system to avoid them rupturing with very low temperatures. It has been quite cold outside whilst we've been touring. Could this be the problem we have?

 

If anyone has any pointers for us we'd be very grateful. I'm not technically minded but if you do have a hunch as to what our issue may be and you can tell us where things might be to check out then I'll do my best to find it and have a look.

 

Thanking everyone in anticipation!

 

David & Anna :-) :-) :-)

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Have you got a Rapido handbook for your motorhome?

 

I’m guessing that your 924F has a Truma combination air/water heater that often has an electrically-operated safety/drain valve. This valve is intended to open automatically in cold weather to drain down the heater to prevent it becoming frost damaged. It’s mentioned in the Rapido handbook I provided a link to above and I’ve attached an image below. It sounds like the valve has opened and you’ll need to close it and then ‘bleed’ air out of the water system.

2092265979_Trumasafetydrainvalve.png.c1efa4ed4082434f0b32586e8131482b.png

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Given your comments, have you actually checked whether the Truma dump valve has triggered given the cold conditions.

 

The water being dumped could account for at least some of the symptoms you describe.

 

It will be the older type, pictured here:

 

414rOW-B9FL._AC_SY355_.jpg

 

...and the red "button" should be pulled up for it to be closed.

 

(If the temperature is currently cold, it may not hold up, but it should do if the heater is turned on).

 

If you can't find it, my Rapido (not a 924) of a similar vintage had it hidden away in a cutout at the bottom of the kitchen cabinets, visible only when a slide-out had been slid - it may be similarly obscured - but shouldn't be far from the Heater.

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David

 

Photos of the 924F model indicate that its Truma heater is housed within the motorhome’s L-shaped kitchen unit. This is a commom design feature for Rapidos, saving space but making removal of the heater a challenging and lengthy task.

 

Access to the heater for minor ‘mainrtenance’ is via a small external hatch in the motorhome’s right-hand side, just in front of the fresh-water filler and below the heater’s flue-cowl. (hatch shown in 1st photo attached below). The Truma electrically-operated safety-drain valve (assuming your motorhome has this) may be via the hatch or (as Robinhood has said) from within the kitchen-unit, with the latter approach making more sense.

 

Logically, if the drain valve has opened, if there is sufficient water in the fresh-water tank, water is reaching the water-pump and the pump is pumping it onwards (and there’s no major leak further down the line) a significant amount of water should be pouring out beneath the motorhome from the valve’s drain tube.

 

This 2016 forum thread discussed this Truma safety/drain valve in some depth

 

https://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Truma-water-dump-valve/45874/

 

with observations (arguments) about the time-honoured practice of ‘jamming’ the valve shut to prevent it opening spontaneously in cold weather. Various ploys were mentioned (clothes peg, elastic band, etc.) but the tidiest method is probably an “R”-clip (2nd photo attached below).

 

Althiogh an opened safety/drain valve is the prime suspect, It’s possible that the problem lies with the water pump. This is likely to be a SHURflo pressure-sensitive pump (3rd attached photo).

 

I not sure if the 924F has an external or internal fresh-water tank, so it hard to guess where the water-pump would lbe located. However, it’s usually quite easy to identify where a SHRflo pump is, as they are not exactly quiet...

 

Air entering the pump on it’s ‘upstream’ side (say through a loose water-connector or a cracked filter) would cause spluttering at the taps or - at worst - prevent the pump from being able to lift water from the tank. So if the drain valve isn’t the culprit, check that water is actually reaching the pump.

924f.png.24af3a56412cce1199dc047c8445933c.png

1122505341_Rclip.jpg.ef965012e9abd78936d7d24cb7672d7e.jpg

shurflo.jpg.63f4335866c26ffe67be4bc862b98655.jpg

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That might resolve his lack of water / pump problem but lack of heating is another. My manual states that water is not required for the heating to work. As it appears that the heating was working during his trip so the van, I assume, would have been above the 8° for the valve to operate. If David can't find his fresh water tank, mine is under the front seat, to visually check the water level opening the drain valve will show if there's still water in it.
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stevec176 - 2020-12-07 12:28 PM

 

That might resolve his lack of water / pump problem but lack of heating is another.

...indeed, which is why I posted that it might be responsible for some of the symptoms.

 

Given the description, the operation of the dump valve is the first thing I would investigate.

 

The failure to provide heat, though, might also be a by-product of running the unit dry, dependent on the heating mode and type of supply (mains/gas) in use. It is quite possible that running the unit in water heating (or combined heating) mode dry would result in one or both of the overheat protections (elec and/or gas) fitted to the older C-series, being tripped. Whilst I can't vouch, I suspect that, if this were to happen the fan would still circulate (in order to cool the unit down) and it would ultimately lead to cold air being circulated.

 

It would be interesting to get the OP's feedback on the dump valve situation, before moving on to the wider issues.

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A 2004 Rapido 924F motorhome should have a Truma Trumatic C-6002 heater. This might be gas-only (Continental European specification) or gas + a 230V water heating 'collar' (C-6002EL), or gas + 230V for gas and/or 230V air and/or water heating (C-6002EH) - with either of the last two variants being fitted to UK-specification models.

 

The easiest way to identify a C-6002EH is that there will be a PAIR of rotary control-switches and one of these will be marked "truma trumatic C EH".

 

The operation of the C-6002EH was a mystery to many experienced motorhome owners, so it would be no surprise if a novice motorcaravanner had difficulties.

 

(I suggest that the water system problem be focused on first, as it may well be that when that has been resolved the heater's operation will be OK.)

 

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Hi all, thank you all for your input here.

 

The dump valve looks like it had indeed shed water, so I imagine this is why out water tank had emptied itself too? (£12 worth from Asda to be precise, our tank was unexpectedly empty when we got to Brighton, maybe that was why :-x).

 

As for the heating, it does appear to need water just to answer an above comment as on both times our water vanished and then we topped it up a tiny bit, the heater then started to work.

 

I will be now wedging a peg underneath the water heater dump valve button in order to try to stop it from tripping when its not needed.

 

Now that we're home again I will top the water tank up with the dump valve switch in up position to see if the water pump starts to behave or not. I hope it will.

 

I will be posting another thread about spares for our 2004 Rapido 924f as some nice lorry driver smashed our wing mirror to bits whilst way over our side of the road and careering in the other direction without slowing. We've been quoted £840 plus vat for a replacement! Unfortunately it was dark and we didn't get the company name or reg number ??

 

Thanks again everyone for your great advice!

 

David & Anna

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David,

 

Is your water dump valve the electrical type shown in the picture above?

 

If yes then it may dump the water any time the power is cut and starting the engine will cut the power! Something worth experimenting with.

 

The alternative would be to replace it with a non electrical variety.

 

Keith.

 

PS And you need to add a dash cam to your Christmas wish list :D

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The electrically-operated Truma safety/drain valve needs to be powered by an uninterruptible 12V supply (normally provided by the leisure-battery). This means that, when the valve is closed, the drain-valve draws a small current and would eventually flatten the battery if the battery were not being recharged - hence why Truma advises that the valve be opened when a motorhome is to be static for an extended period without battery-charging occurring. Starting the motorhome’s engine should have no effect on the drain valve unless the valve’s power-supply has been inappropriately installed (which might happen if a motorhome is UK-built and has an EMC (ElectroMagnetic Compatibility) isolation feature.)

 

Obviously, if the drain valve’s 12V supply is interrupted, the valve will open and if that happens and the motorhome’s water-pump happens to be switched on, the motorhome’s fresh-water tank will be emptied through the drain valve. In certain circumstances, if the water-pump is the submersible type, even if the pump is not switched on opening of the drain valve may cause the tank to empty via siphonic action.

 

For a Trumatic C-Series unit (produced in various incarnations from 1994 to mid-2007), if it is wished to fill the motorhome’s water system when the temperature within the vehicle prevents an electrically-operated safety-drain valve from being closed, as soon as the heater is switched on it will be possible to close the valve.

 

In order to allow the electrical safety/drain-valve to be closed there’s no need to run the heater until the temperature in the motorhome has been increased. However if you don’t run the heater for a while - and it is cold enough inside the vehicle - the drain-valve will open automatically as soon as the heater is switched off!

 

Lots of motorcaravanners use a ‘clip’ of some sort to stop the valve opening spontaneously (I always did this) but obviously this ploy will prevent the valve from providing anti-frost protection.

 

The Truma “Combi” heaters that succeeded the C-Series models have a different non-electrical drain-valve that is much more difficult to ‘jam’ closed. An electric heater for that valve is an option to assist water-system filling during cold weather.

 

This is the water-system ‘bleedIng’ procedure I use:

 

1. Ensure all water drain valves are closed.

2. Fill fresh-water tank.

3. Make sure all taps are closed.

4. Place shower hand-set in deep bucket.

5. Open shower hot tap fully and switch on water-pump.

6. When water emerges smoothly from shower hand-set the boiler will be full.

7. Close shower hot tap and vent air from the other taps one by one, using bucket to avoid water splashing.

 

This method seems to work equally well for Truma C-Series and Combi heaters and when the water-pump is the diaphragm type.

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Davidhood999 - 2020-12-08 6:20 PM

 

...As for the heating, it does appear to need water just to answer an above comment as on both times our water vanished and then we topped it up a tiny bit, the heater then started to work..

A Trumatic C is a recirculatory heater. It is designed to suck in air from the leisure-vehicle’s habitation area, heat that air within the appliance and then blow the heated air back into the habitation area through flexible trunking. The air enters the heater itself through its top and then passes over a central finned heat-exchanger that warms the air before it emerges from outlets in the heater’s base. Surrounding the heat-exchanger is a 12-litres capacity water container that is heated up by the exchanger. It is possible (I suppose) that if the water container drains while the heater is producing warm air, that air mightl temporarily cool down due to an empty water container providing reduced insulation.

 

However, a Truma Trumatic C heater can safely and effectively be operated empty of water to provide warmed-air heating alone - this is clearly stated in Truma’s operating instructions and here

 

https://www.truma.com/uk/en/faq/water-container-trumatic-c

 

If you don’t have Truma’s operating instructions for your heater, the appropriate document can be downloaded from here

 

https://www.truma.com/uk/en/service/self-service/product-family/truma-c-heaters

 

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Keithl - 2020-12-08 6:40 PM

 

David,

 

Is your water dump valve the electrical type shown in the picture above?

 

If yes then it may dump the water any time the power is cut and starting the engine will cut the power! Something worth experimenting with.

 

The alternative would be to replace it with a non electrical variety.

 

Keith.

 

PS And you need to add a dash cam to your Christmas wish list :D

Hi,

 

It looks the same as in the image in a post just above. I assume it's electric? The previous owner had wedged a cloths peg in the way of the valve shutting but when I looked there was still quite a bit I give left so I think it could still have dumped water. Very interesting what you say about it seemingly dumping water randomly when power is momentarily cut, maybe that happened to us. I've found a metal clip like the one pictured in an above post and have slid it in so the valve can't move, when I did this and then put more water in the tank the hot and cold water worked again but there is still spluttering.

 

Yes, I never even thought of getting a dash cam. We live and we learn eh :-/

 

We'll get there! :-)

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Derek Uzzell - 2020-12-09 7:05 AM

 

Davidhood999 - 2020-12-08 6:20 PM

 

...As for the heating, it does appear to need water just to answer an above comment as on both times our water vanished and then we topped it up a tiny bit, the heater then started to work..

A Trumatic C is a recirculatory heater. It is designed to suck in air from the leisure-vehicle’s habitation area, heat that air within the appliance and then blow the heated air back into the habitation area through flexible trunking. The air enters the heater itself through its top and then passes over a central finned heat-exchanger that warms the air before it emerges from outlets in the heater’s base. Surrounding the heat-exchanger is a 12-litres capacity water container that is heated up by the exchanger. It is possible (I suppose) that if the water container drains while the heater is producing warm air, that air mightl temporarily cool down due to an empty water container providing reduced insulation.

 

However, a Truma Trumatic C heater can safely and effectively be operated empty of water to provide warmed-air heating alone - this is clearly stated in Truma’s operating instructions and here

 

https://www.truma.com/uk/en/faq/water-container-trumatic-c

 

If you don’t have Truma’s operating instructions for your heater, the appropriate document can be downloaded from here

 

https://www.truma.com/uk/en/service/self-service/product-family/truma-c-heaters

Thank for the advice. I think it's just having to get used to the system. As another member said above, the 2 dial control isn't the easiest to fathom. I will certainly keep what you've said in mind and will download the instructions. Cheers. David & Anna

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If the taps are ‘spluttering’, air is entering the water system.

 

SHURflo pumps normally have an anti-grit fiter on their inlet and this can crack, or the pump itself may be letting in air, or there's a faulty water connection in the part of the water system from the water pick-up in the fresh-water tank to the pump. (Is your 924F’s fresh-water tank inside the motorhome’s habitation area or external underneath the floor? And where’s the water-pump?)

 

If the taps did not splutter before you had the problem you mentioned in your 1st post above, you may not have bled the system sufficiently.

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Derek Uzzell - 2020-12-06 6:34 PM

 

Have you got a Rapido handbook for your motorhome?

 

I’m guessing that your 924F has a Truma combination air/water heater that often has an electrically-operated safety/drain valve. This valve is intended to open automatically in cold weather to drain down the heater to prevent it becoming frost damaged. It’s mentioned in the Rapido handbook I provided a link to above and I’ve attached an image below. It sounds like the valve has opened and you’ll need to close it and then ‘bleed’ air out of the water system.

Hi

 

Thanks for the info, I've managed to get the manual from previous owner, but with your help I managed to sort the issue out. The hot water dump valve was open, probably from when it was freezing cold one night whilst at Brighton. I've now got a clip to prevent it opening whilst were using the van and we'll leave the heat on overnight whilst using it too.

 

The other thing that had happened was there was lots of air in the water pipes which I've now bled out do now we have running hot n cold water again :-)

 

Thank for your advice

 

David & Anna.

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Robinhood - 2020-12-06 6:43 PM

 

Given your comments, have you actually checked whether the Truma dump valve has triggered given the cold conditions.

 

The water being dumped could account for at least some of the symptoms you describe.

 

It will be the older type, pictured here:

 

414rOW-B9FL._AC_SY355_.jpg

 

...and the red "button" should be pulled up for it to be closed.

 

(If the temperature is currently cold, it may not hold up, but it should do if the heater is turned on).

 

If you can't find it, my Rapido (not a 924) of a similar vintage had it hidden away in a cutout at the bottom of the kitchen cabinets, visible only when a slide-out had been slid - it may be similarly obscured - but shouldn't be far from the Heater.

Hi

 

Thanks for the info, I've managed to get the manual from previous owner, but with your help I managed to sort the issue out. The hot water dump valve was open, probably from when it was freezing cold one night whilst at Brighton. I've now got a clip to prevent it opening whilst were using the van and we'll leave the heat on overnight whilst using it too.

 

The other thing that had happened was there was lots of air in the water pipes which I've now bled out do now we have running hot n cold water again :-)

 

Thank for your advice

 

David & Anna.

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Derek Uzzell - 2020-12-07 8:39 AM

 

David

 

Photos of the 924F model indicate that its Truma heater is housed within the motorhome’s L-shaped kitchen unit. This is a commom design feature for Rapidos, saving space but making removal of the heater a challenging and lengthy task.

 

Access to the heater for minor ‘mainrtenance’ is via a small external hatch in the motorhome’s right-hand side, just in front of the fresh-water filler and below the heater’s flue-cowl. (hatch shown in 1st photo attached below). The Truma electrically-operated safety-drain valve (assuming your motorhome has this) may be via the hatch or (as Robinhood has said) from within the kitchen-unit, with the latter approach making more sense.

 

Logically, if the drain valve has opened, if there is sufficient water in the fresh-water tank, water is reaching the water-pump and the pump is pumping it onwards (and there’s no major leak further down the line) a significant amount of water should be pouring out beneath the motorhome from the valve’s drain tube.

 

This 2016 forum thread discussed this Truma safety/drain valve in some depth

 

https://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Truma-water-dump-valve/45874/

 

with observations (arguments) about the time-honoured practice of ‘jamming’ the valve shut to prevent it opening spontaneously in cold weather. Various ploys were mentioned (clothes peg, elastic band, etc.) but the tidiest method is probably an “R”-clip (2nd photo attached below).

 

Althiogh an opened safety/drain valve is the prime suspect, It’s possible that the problem lies with the water pump. This is likely to be a SHURflo pressure-sensitive pump (3rd attached photo).

 

I not sure if the 924F has an external or internal fresh-water tank, so it hard to guess where the water-pump would lbe located. However, it’s usually quite easy to identify where a SHRflo pump is, as they are not exactly quiet...

 

Air entering the pump on it’s ‘upstream’ side (say through a loose water-connector or a cracked filter) would cause spluttering at the taps or - at worst - prevent the pump from being able to lift water from the tank. So if the drain valve isn’t the culprit, check that water is actually reaching the pump.

Hi

 

Thanks for all that advice, we fixed it all now, the dump valve had opened and drained all our water out and there was lots of air in the system which is now all bled out so we now have running hot n cold water. The fresh water tank on a 924f model is external.

 

Just out of curiosity, when we have the heat on inside I've noticed that the sir coming out of the external vent nest to the locker where the dump valve is situated blows out hot air. I know it should blow out air so that there's not unburned gas and carbon monoxide getting into the living space, but should it be hot? To me it seems sill that it does this as this heat could be used to heat up the living area. It seams very inefficient if it is meant to do this.

 

Thanks again.

 

David & Anna

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Derek Uzzell - 2020-12-08 8:56 PM

 

The electrically-operated Truma safety/drain valve needs to be powered by an uninterruptible 12V supply (normally provided by the leisure-battery). This means that, when the valve is closed, the drain-valve draws a small current and would eventually flatten the battery if the battery were not being recharged - hence why Truma advises that the valve be opened when a motorhome is to be static for an extended period without battery-charging occurring. Starting the motorhome’s engine should have no effect on the drain valve unless the valve’s power-supply has been inappropriately installed (which might happen if a motorhome is UK-built and has an EMC (ElectroMagnetic Compatibility) isolation feature.)

 

Obviously, if the drain valve’s 12V supply is interrupted, the valve will open and if that happens and the motorhome’s water-pump happens to be switched on, the motorhome’s fresh-water tank will be emptied through the drain valve. In certain circumstances, if the water-pump is the submersible type, even if the pump is not switched on opening of the drain valve may cause the tank to empty via siphonic action.

 

For a Trumatic C-Series unit (produced in various incarnations from 1994 to mid-2007), if it is wished to fill the motorhome’s water system when the temperature within the vehicle prevents an electrically-operated safety-drain valve from being closed, as soon as the heater is switched on it will be possible to close the valve.

 

In order to allow the electrical safety/drain-valve to be closed there’s no need to run the heater until the temperature in the motorhome has been increased. However if you don’t run the heater for a while - and it is cold enough inside the vehicle - the drain-valve will open automatically as soon as the heater is switched off!

 

Lots of motorcaravanners use a ‘clip’ of some sort to stop the valve opening spontaneously (I always did this) but obviously this ploy will prevent the valve from providing anti-frost protection.

 

The Truma “Combi” heaters that succeeded the C-Series models have a different non-electrical drain-valve that is much more difficult to ‘jam’ closed. An electric heater for that valve is an option to assist water-system filling during cold weather.

 

This is the water-system ‘bleedIng’ procedure I use:

 

1. Ensure all water drain valves are closed.

2. Fill fresh-water tank.

3. Make sure all taps are closed.

4. Place shower hand-set in deep bucket.

5. Open shower hot tap fully and switch on water-pump.

6. When water emerges smoothly from shower hand-set the boiler will be full.

7. Close shower hot tap and vent air from the other taps one by one, using bucket to avoid water splashing.

 

This method seems to work equally well for Truma C-Series and Combi heaters and when the water-pump is the diaphragm type.

Hi

 

Thanks for the info, I've managed to get the manual from previous owner, but with your help I managed to sort the issue out. The hot water dump valve was open, probably from when it was freezing cold one night whilst at Brighton. I've now got a clip to prevent it opening whilst were using the van and we'll leave the heat on overnight whilst using it too.

 

The other thing that had happened was there was lots of air in the water pipes which I've now bled out do now we have running hot n cold water again :-)

 

Out of curiosity, when our heat is on there is lots of hot air coming out of the vent/flue outside. Is this meant to happen as this seems very inefficient if it is meant to happen. I know it needs to vent unburned gas and carbon monoxide, but lots of hot air? Seems daft to me.

 

Thank for your advice

 

David & Anna.

 

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Derek Uzzell - 2020-12-09 6:24 PM

 

If the taps are ‘spluttering’, air is entering the water system.

 

SHURflo pumps normally have an anti-grit fiter on their inlet and this can crack, or the pump itself may be letting in air, or there's a faulty water connection in the part of the water system from the water pick-up in the fresh-water tank to the pump. (Is your 924F’s fresh-water tank inside the motorhome’s habitation area or external underneath the floor? And where’s the water-pump?)

 

If the taps did not splutter before you had the problem you mentioned in your 1st post above, you may not have bled the system sufficiently.

Hi

 

Thanks for the info, I've managed to get the manual from previous owner, but with your help I managed to sort the issue out. The hot water dump valve was open, probably from when it was freezing cold one night whilst at Brighton. I've now got a clip to prevent it opening whilst were using the van and we'll leave the heat on overnight whilst using it too.

 

The other thing that had happened was there was lots of air in the water pipes which I've now bled out do now we have running hot n cold water again :-)

 

Thank for your advice

 

David & Anna.

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David,

 

Five replies all saying basically the same thing is really a bit OTT and clutters the post so please can I request in future you combine your replies into one. It is not necessary to reply to every poster with the same reply, so why not just begin your reply with something like "Thanks to all who replied..."

 

Thanks,

Keith.

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Davidhood999 - 2020-12-12 1:37 PM

 

...Out of curiosity, when our heat is on there is lots of hot air coming out of the vent/flue outside. Is this meant to happen as this seems very inefficient if it is meant to happen. I know it needs to vent unburned gas and carbon monoxide, but lots of hot air? Seems daft to me.

Presumably you mean the ‘cowl’ thing arrowed in red on the photo attached below.

 

This component has two concentric flexible ‘tubes’ (shown in photo) connected to its rear. The inner metal tube carries the exhaust gasses emerging from the Truma heater’s gas-burner’s combustion chamber, with air from outside the motorhome passing into the combustion chamber through the space between the outer and inner tubes. That air helps to cool the exhaust gasses that would otherwise stay very hot. The gas-burner’s combustion chamber is hermetcally sealed from the part of the heater through which the habitation-area's warmed air passes, so there’s no loss of ‘blown air’ efficiency. If your Truma heater were not buried in your Rapido’s kitchen unit, it would be much more apparent to you how it functions, but the Installation Instructions for a Trumatic C 6002EH appliance (which I think is what you have) should make matters clearer.

 

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1085251/Truma-Trumatic-C-6002-Eh.html#manual

 

A ‘competitor’ to Truma’s Trumatic C heaters was Atwood’s “Confort 3” appliance. This was mentioned in the following 2015 forum thread

 

https://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/heating-issues/40287/

 

The Atwood Confort 3 did not have the 2-concentric-tubes intake/exhaust arrangement used with Trumatic C and “Combi” heaters and as a result the Atwood Confort 3’s exhaust flue got really REALLY hot. As that flue was commonly led through a wardrobe to an outlet on the motorhome’s roof, scorching of clothes within the wardrobe was inevitable unless the motorhome manufacturer added a wire mesh protective cover over the flue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure why you were unable to view the image. It shouldn’t need ‘opening’ - though there were 2018 reports here of attached images not being immediately visible.

 

https://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Posted-images-only-viewable-via-downloading-attachment-/49752/

 

Anyway, I’ve attached below the same image as a .png file rather than a .jpg file which might viisibilize it for you.

 

Your motorhome’s Truma heater is in the kitchen unit and the position of the heater’s external intake/exhaust cowl suggests that the length of the concentric flexible tubes leading from the heater to the cowl will be quite short.

 

Installation Instructions for a Trumatic C 6002EH heater can be found here (These instructions will apply generally to other Trumatic C models)

 

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1085251/Truma-Trumatic-C-6002-Eh.html?page=3#manual

 

and the instructions indicate that the minimum length for the tubes should be 70cm.

 

The shorter the length of the tubes, the less oportunity there will be for the hot exhaust being expelled to be cooled by the incoming air.

 

I remember someone enquiring here about the practicability of using heat from a motorhome’s engine coolant to heat water in a Trumatic C’s water tank (Answer - Forget it.) but I don’t think anyone’s ever suggested exploiting a Trumatic C’s exhaust heat before. (If you can think of a realistic and worthwhile way to do it, lots of people would be interested.)

1121622493_Trumaintakeexhaust.png.d630d012596250be6c75d7f052d60689.png

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Derek Uzzell - 2020-12-22 2:26 PM

Not sure why you were unable to view the image. It shouldn’t need ‘opening’ - though there were 2018 reports here of attached images not being immediately visible..................................

I don't know if this will help, but my Win 10 computer suddenly developed that problem a couple of years back, when using Internet Explorer 12. I eventually installed the new version of Microsoft Edge which, unlike the earlier version, is compatible with my anti-virus program, and on-screen images are now fine.

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Derek Uzzell - 2020-12-22 2:26 PM

 

Not sure why you were unable to view the image. It shouldn’t need ‘opening’ - though there were 2018 reports here of attached images not being immediately visible.

Its neither viewable "in-line" nor openable on my machine.

 

It attempts to open as a .jpg file, but objects to the included format (using a number of viewing programs). My suspicion is that it is either a file not actually compressed/encoded as .jpg, or, if it works on your Mac, has additions or extensions that make it incompatible with Windows.

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