Schaudt control panel

[Grumpy Grandad]

Hi. Prior to selling an unused generator I connected it to our motorhome, a Hymer B544, to check that it was working ok. Big mistake!!! The Schaudt control panel above the door is now showing a flashing warning sign and a 240v plug sign. The control panel is a DT101 model. I have tried various things, including. Plugging the van into the mains, switching off the panel for a couple of hours,and then resetting the panel. All to no avail. Is there a reset button anywhere at all. Any advice would be very much appreciated

 

Stuart

[lennyhb]

There is a slide switch on the front of the Elektroblock which switches everything off including the panel apart from a the electric dump valve if your van has one. It is not recommended to use this switch in older vans they sometimes get a bit corroded and won't switch back on.

Best solution would be to disconnect the batteries, if you have a solar panel disconnect that first or do it at night. Hopefully the panel will reset.

Alternatively you may be able to reset the panel after entering the pin number, can't remember what it is it's the same for all Hymers email Schaudt they will give it to you.

[Grumpy Grandad]

Thanks Lenny. I have entered the panel code 8251, nothing. I was also thinking about disconnecting the batteries to see if that would help. The van is a 2008 model. Will try later and let you know how I get on. Wish I had never tried the blooming generator. Hate the things anyway

 

Stuart

[aandncaravan]

The Schaudt range don't have a reset capability as they are not software driven like some other units.

The panel is probably telling you that a poor 240v supply was fed into the van, either too high a voltage or poor phasing?

The mains charger may have suffered damage? Is the 'Mains connected' light/Icon lit when on EHU?

Often when the charger blows it trips out the RCD, so suggest you check that is ok and then recheck the mains connected light?

 

If it is not showing EHU connected, the Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 101 is likely to require some attention to the charger?

 

The 'mains connected' light/icon is driven by the 12v output from the charger, which obviously only lights when on EHU.

[Dave225]

I have copied the following from a main Schaudt dealer here in the UK as it gives a lot of useful information. It does state that using certain generators is a 'no. no' so whether that is the cause of the OP's problem I do not know. Maybe contavt the Company for advise on the matter would be a suggestion.

 

 

 

Schaudt Elektroblock

We are Schaudt recognised distributors able to repair or supply the Schaudt Elektroblock range, all models from the famous EBL 99, EBL 100, EBL 101, etc through to the EBL 263.

We have a large stock of both NEW and remanufactured EBL99, EBL 100, EBL 101, etc

 

Schaudt units are reliable, well made units and one of our favourite chargers to repair. Support from the factory is excellent and we can obtain any part from a WSF 01 Windscreen Wiper relay to the EBL 99 charger fitted in more Motorhomes worldwide than any other unit.

The EBL range will tolerate voltages as high as 260v without issue.

Contary to the information on the Web Forums they do not have a problem with mains voltage spikes, less than 0.02% of the units we see have issues with mains Spikes/Surges and almost all of these are picked up abroad in France, Spain and Italy where Electrical storms are more common than the UK.

Again contrary to what you will read on the Forums they DO have built in Spike/Surge protection, via a Metal Oxide Varister on the 240v mains input circuit.

Almost all of the problems we see with Elektroblock EBL charger failures are down to the use of Batteries past their best, not 240v mains borne issues.

 

 

Schaudt Elektroblocks are much more sophisticated units than those found in the average UK built Motorhome or Caravan with multiple fuctions:

1. Controlling all charging for Solar, Alternator or Mains/generator.

2. A power boost controller for the Alternator charge to the Leisure battery. Some of the Schaudt products use Voltage Boost technology that boost the Alternator output to compensate for lost voltage over a long cable run. This boosts the Alternator output to a higher voltage to compensate for the voltage drop in the long cables from the front of the vehicle to the Leisure battery location. This is one of the reasons why an Elektroblock equipped Motorhome can recharge it's batteries on the move more quickly than those with say a Zig unit and why aftermarket Alternator Battery 2 Battery Booster units should NOT be fitted unless the installer fully understands the Elektroblock and the implications.

3. Starter battery charging with up to 6 amps when on mains/generator.

4. A Power Supply that provides much of the 12v demand in addition to charging the battery.

5. Power distribution with the required safety mechanisms to do so. Some Elektroblocks will cut all 12v power when the voltage falls below a preset level, usually around 11v, to prevent damage to the battery from complete discharge.

6. Some control the refrigerator operation using internal relays.

7. Frost protection. On some models a frost protection valve will open to drain the Water Tanks below preset temperatures.

8. The ability to integrate a second mains Charger unit to cope with multiple batteries. Essential if the battery bank is over 180Ah. Because the EBL charges both Habitation and Starter Batteries, you must make an allowance for the Starter battery capacity when calculating the bank size.

The second auxillary charger puts it's 12v output directly into the EBL and the charge is distributed evenly to habitation and Starter batteries as required with the Control Panel showing the extra charge.

 

A split charge relay device, essential on some none Elektroblock equipped Leisure vehicles, is not only unnecessary but may cause issues.

For the same reason a Solar charger regulator should be output into the Elektroblock Solar port so that the EBL can distribute all Battery charge current and show it on the Control panel. This isn't always essential, but it doesn't make sense to create an intelligent unit to distribute all charging with full transparency of the charge rate on the Control panel, then bypass it's intelligence by going straight to the battery.

For example an EBL 220 will boost the charge from the Alternator to compensate for the loss of voltage in the cable run from the Motorhome Alternator to the Leisure batteries which may be at the rear of the Vehicle. It will also distribute the Alternator current to the Fridge while on the move. If a Solar Panel is fitted and supplying 7 amps, the EBL will be aware of that and the Alternator current supply will be backed down. Likewise if a EBL 99 is supplying 12v charge, while on mains hook-up, and the EBL 99 is aware of a 7 amp feed from the Solar Panel it will back off it's charge rate, or switch more of the charge to the starter battery.

If you have a Solar Installation that bypasses this intelligence, it's an indication that the installers were lacking in knowledge.

Solar Panel output should be restricted to a max output of 15 amps and 26v dependent on the EBL/LR1218 setup.

 

If you have an Elektroblock (or Reich) equipped Leisure vehicle it is not only unnecessary to add a 'Top up' battery charger like a CTEK but it may cause issues, particularly with the later models like the EBL 101.

Some of the generic battery chargers are useful for recovering a sulphated battery 'off' the vehicle but the cost is high, over £100 for a 7 amp charger. We would argue that a battery that is even partly sulphated is past it's best and is better replaced. £100 goes a long way towards a quality new battery that will last 6 years. See the Battery Technology page.

 

 

 

If you connect your Motorhome to mains supply a day before you leave for your holiday you will reduce the chance of Starter battery issues as well as ensuring you have full leisure batteries. You don't need to activate the control panel, i.e. switch it on, the charging will still take place even with the panel 'off'.

We purchase none working Schaudt Elektroblock, Burstner/Reich E-box and Nordelettronica units. Contact us for a valuation of your broken unit.

 

 

How to look after your EBL:-

1. Don't continue to use a battery that is past it's best. Almost all the failures we see are down to poor batteries, see our separate page, 'Battery Technology' on how to save money on batteries.

2. Don't cover it with a Duvet, keep the EBL cool.

3. Do disconnect it from the mains/battery before switching the device from Gel to Wet battery type: See the separate Battery Technology page for information on the suitability of Gel batteries in Motorhomes/Caravans.

4. Don't connect the Car to Caravan tow hitch while the Car engine Ignition is 'on' making the 12n/12s charging circuits live and prone to reverse polarity issues.

5. Don't run the 'Mains' supply from an unsmoothed generator supply: The output on these can vary by as much as 100 volts. Use only Generators with a PURE Sine Wave output or that use Inverter technology. NEVER use a Generator that is not suitable for sensitive Electronics.

6. NEVER run without a battery connected, some Caravan/Motorhpme chargers can work in this way, but the strain is significant.

7. Do make sure the mains hook-up is unplugged when you attach/detach the battery cables.

8. Do play safe during electrical storms. If you are in the vicinity of an electric storm, particularly abroad, cut the mains supply to the Motorhome/caravan either by pulling the Mains hook-up lead until the storm passes. Lightning can hit overhead power cables which may lead to higher than normal voltages in the immediate vicinity.

 

What causes the Elektroblock to fail?

The most common cause is poor battery condition. See the Battery charging faults page, also please read the separate page on Battery Technology

 

 

 

 

When removing a Schaudt Elektroblock EBL to send to us:

Do not pull any plugs out of the EBL until you first:-

Disconnect the mains EHU supply and in a Motorhome switch off the ignition.

Photograph or record which fuses are in which slots on the front, a replacement EBL comes from the factory with only minimal fuses.

If one is connected, disconnect the Solar panel from the regulator. Do not leave the regulator connected to the solar panel as the next step of removing the Battery leads may damage the regulator.

If you have an electric step, retract it now as once you have disconnected the EBL it will be stuck out.

Manually hold close the frost protection valve (a Clothes peg does a good job) as taking off the power may drain the water tank.

Switch off 12v at the Control Panel display, usually above the door.

On an EBL 220 and other later models you need to 'isolate the battery' on the control panel, if you do not do this there is a chance the EBL will not power up after installation. Our honarary Schaudt expert Peter Brown says, "In paragraph 5.2 (Changing the battery) of my copy of the Electroblock EBL 220-2 manual it says:

"Disconnect the battery from the Electroblock by activating the battery isolation on the DT/LT ... control and switch panel".

"On the LT510 panel this isolation is achieved by pressing the living area battery button in for 10 seconds. Other control panels have other ways of doing it so check the manual.

 

Remove the leads from the Leisure, and in a Motorhome, the starter batteries. Sometimes it is hard to gain access to both leads, so just removing one (the -) is usually ok.

Now you can remove the plugs from the front of the EBL starting with the Mains 'Kettle' lead. On units like the EBL 208 and 225 each Lucar connector should be labelled and insulated as they are removed.

Clearly label the 3 primary connections at the BACK of the Elektroblock, on relevant models like the EBL 99 and 100. Failure to disconnect all the batteries earlier will leave some of these wires in a 'live' state. Take great care not to short them, touch them against each other or to the rear metal panel and insulate them well. We suggest you wrap insulating tape around the screwdriver blade (Flat blade not Pozidrive) to ensure it doesn't contact the metal backplate of the EBL unit when undoing the three screws.

Undo them in this order : Wohnr/Leisure battery/(usually a Black lead), then the centre lead Minus/(usually twin Brown leads), then the Starter/(usually Red lead).

Once the plugs and wires are disconnected there are normally only 4 screws holding the EBL to the floor/wall.

Please pack it carefully, there are delicate components inside the unit. We sugget at least 3 inches/75mm of soft packaging around the unit, to absorb any shock, with a strong cardboard box over that. We can not repair physical damage only Electronic.

Please help us keep the above section accurate by emailing any anomalies that you find when removing your particular Elektroblock unit.

Standard parcel 2nd class delivery is around £11, but we suggest you use Royal mail 48hour which costs £12.60, has a higher insurance value, is trackable and usually arrives next day.

 

When reinstalling an EBL :

Repopulate the fuses in the Elektroblock EBL front panel as per your photograph, etc. Elektroblock units arrive from the factory with the minimum of fuses.

Do not put any plugs or connectors into the EBL until you first:-

Disconnect the mains supply and in a Motorhome switch off the ignition.

If one is connected, disconnect the Solar panel from the regulator. Do not leave the regulator connected to the solar panel as the next step of removing the Battery leads may damage the regulator. Please be extra carefull about reconnecting the correct way around, the German builders often use Blue for Live

Remove the leads from the Leisure, and in a Motorhome, the starter batteries. Sometimes it is hard to gain access to both leads, so just removing one (the -) is usually ok.

Double check that no plugs are inserted at the front of the box then connect the three fat wires at the back of the EBL IN THE ORDER they were removed -

RED (ROT) to it's connector. Brown (Braun) to it's connector, Black (Swarz) to it's connector. Note that some Motor home builders use coloured cable that is different to that suggested by Schaudt.

If the battery leads have not been disconnected take great care not to touch the leads to each other or to the aluminium back panel.

If any of these leads do touch or short, check the big fuses (between 30 - 50 amp) usually located around the Starter or Leisure batteries.

Plug in the MNL leads into their sockets, then the control panel connector (with the thin wires) but do not plug in the Mains Kettle lead yet.

Reconnect the battery leads TAKING GREAT CARE to put them on the right way around, positive to positive, etc.

Turn on the EBL by pressing the switch in at the top to EIN. some EBL units like the EBL 109, 208, etc do not have ON/OFF EIN/AUS switch.

If the Control Panel won't turn on double check all leads/connections. If it is a later EBL, like the EBL 220 try activating the battery isolation on the DT/LT ... control and switch panel.

If all ok, Plug in the mains 240v EHU into the side of the Motorhome.

Then plug in the EBL mains kettle lead. The EBL should 'click' when the lead is inserted. If it clicks continually the charger current is not able to leave the EBL and the clicking is the safety relay shutting it down. Pull the kettle lead and the clicking should stop. Replace any blown fuses in the front of the EBL and around both the Starter and Leisure batteries and replace the kettle lead, you should now hear a single click. If the Control Panel won't turn on double check all leads/connections. If it is a later EBL, like the EBL 220 try activating the battery isolation on the DT/LT ... control and switch panel.

If not email us.

Test all functionality, every light, every appliance, Running fridge from Alternator, Alternator charging, etc. Everything. Don't assume anything is working until you test it. You have disturbed wiring, etc Things that previously worked might not now. Removing and replacing an EBL can have quite a traumatic effect on the connectors and wiring in some hands.

 

 

 

 

 

[aandncaravan]

Hello Dave, that is from our website, thank you for posting it, but can I point out we are not Schaudt Main Dealers as that might be misread by some as 'part of the Schaudt group'?

 

We are a small independent company that repair Motorhome Electronics and Motorhomes.

We are recognised by Schaudt, Arsilicii, Nordelettronica and Reich as distributors of their units and can supply all new parts from all these companies as well as our own repairs.

 

We also have contacts with companies in both Germany and Holland and can distribute other manufacturer items like Calira and Toptron. We also have a stock of UK Charger/Power units.

 

We do have large stocks of Schaudt parts from Control panels through Wiper relays to Elektroblocks.

We have 4 new EBL 99's and 32 remanufactured units in stock, but while we do have a lot of specialist Schaudt product knowledge, we are not tied in any way or affiliated to Schaudt GmbH.

 

The mighty Schaudt company might not be so pleased to be associated with a little Welsh company in the hills of North Wales?

 

 

[Dave225]

Thanks for the info. I have no intention of ruffling any feathers but did feel that the information you have given is very valuable to us 'consumers'. Dare I state that the in house instruction booklet could give more information. Plus as you have been very complimentary to the brand product I would hope the manufacturer would nto take that amiss.

 

Plus what is wrong with 'little Welsh Companies'? Good on you and have a successful business.

[Grumpy Grandad]

Hi everyone. I have been out to the van today. The 'Mains Icon' and the Alarm triangle both flash whether it is plugged into the mains or not. I was not able to disconnect the main battery leads as it is underneath the passenger seat. As I just had a hernia op on Tuesday I am not able to take the seat off at the moment. The batteries appear to still be receiving a charge though. Could you possibly tell me how much it would cost to repair or renew the Electrobloc please.

 

Stuart

[Robbo]

I haven't really been following this thread but understand you want to disconnect the battery to reset the system.

 

I had a Hymer 544 with underseat batteries. I seem to remember there was a fuse adjacent to the battery which you could remove - thereby effectively cutting off the power.

 

Best to check one thing at a time before assuming the electobloc is at fault.

 

All the best regarding recovering from the hernia - it can take quite a while getting over the surgery, it took me about a month.

[StuartO]

Grumpy Grandad - 2015-11-21 8:56 PM

 

Hi everyone. I have been out to the van today. The 'Mains Icon' and the Alarm triangle both flash whether it is plugged into the mains or not. I was not able to disconnect the main battery leads as it is underneath the passenger seat. As I just had a hernia op on Tuesday I am not able to take the seat off at the moment. The batteries appear to still be receiving a charge though. Could you possibly tell me how much it would cost to repair or renew the Electrobloc please.

 

Stuart

 

The answer is about £250 service exchange but before you get carried away doing that, have you started the engine since this problem appeared? It's quite normal for a Schaudt Control Panel to persist in showing a "failed 240v supply" icon until either you reconnect an EHU cable or start the engine.

 

If you do have to replace the Electrobloc, check whether Brownhills at Newark have any surpus stock. They sometimes advertise EBLs for the standard price without requiring an exchange. I have a spare, serviceable EBL101 and if you are anywhere near Suffolk you would be welcome to come here and install it to test your system.

[aandncaravan]

The other advice is good, you should check all options before assuming the Charger has been taken out by the Generator. Did you check the RCD as we suggested?

You are unlikely to need a service exchange unit. We repair most Schaudt EBL charger failures for £130.

 

If you do want to send it the Post above from Dave225 contains information on how to remove an Elektroblock safely. Also a section on re-installing it.

Same info can be can be found on the Website Schaudt Page where it might be easier to print : http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/schaudt-elektroblock.php

[Grumpy Grandad]

Thankyou all.

I have not started the engine, but I have plugged it back into the mains and it didn't make any difference. There must ,or should be an RCD, but I have hunted all over for the RCD and I am damned if I can find it !! All I found under the rear dinette seat was the mains on/off switch. Any ideas where it might be ?

Stuart

[Grumpy Grandad]

Hi StuartO.

Thankyou for your kind offer, but we live in NE England. We come down to Suffolk every year to attend a CC Rally at Thorpeness. We have some very good friends who live in Kesgrave. Hopefully the van should be repaired by August.

 

Stuart

[lennyhb]

If it is an import it won't have an RCD if it is a few years old, our 2008 Hymer only had a double pole MCB, I fitted an RCD myself. My 2014 Hymer has one.

[Grumpy Grandad]

Hi. So far as I know it isn't an import. We bought it privately from a chap in Gloucester. He had purchased it new from Brownhills in Kent. It's a bit concerning if there is not an RCD though.

 

Stuart

[Brian Kirby]

Look at your mains switch, which I assume is close to the mains input socket. Make sure the mains switch is on. If there is a yellow (usually) button beside the switch, with mains connected and live, press the button. If the switch trips off you have an RCD, and it works. If nothing happens, there is an RCD, but it isn't working. If there is no yellow button, there is no RCD.

[Grumpy Grandad]

Hi everyone.

All working again. I managed to get the seat off to disconnect the batteries, left it for a while, reconnected battery and Hey Presto, all working fine now. Thankyou everyone for your help. Just had the yearly habitation check today, Passed with flying colours, no damp anywhere. Not bad for an 8 year old van!!! Why can't British vans be as good as this.

We are considering changing the van for either another B544 or a Rapido 9048df, about 2 years old.

Any ideas how they compare please.

Once again. Thankyou everyone

 

Stuart

[blackie69]

Hi Thanks for all the info, I hope you can help i have an EBL 269 connected to a solar panel noticed that my leisure batteries are not being charged. The i/p to the EBL from the solar regulator is 13V but no o/p to the leisure batteries from the EBL. I have noticed that there is a relay between the Starter battery and Leisure Batteries but without taking the motorhome to bits can'r find the 70A relay. Any idea where this would be or is it inside the EBL? Many thanks in advance :-D

[aandncaravan]

The Alternator 'split charge' relay is inside the EBL and only triggered when the engine is running, it will have zero impact on your Solar Issue.

 

Check the 15a fuse in the EBL 269, marked 'Solar' is not blown?

 

13v seems a bit low for Solar regulator output, what solar regulator is it, an LRM 1218?

 

 

 

[blackie69]

HI many thanks for your reply

 

Checked output from solar and yep getting around 20V, output to starter battery is at 13V as it is to the leisure batteries. I have a BM-1 which is what i've been using for reference for voltages along with a multimeter beginning to think it maybe the batteries as not holding charge and seem to take an age to charge. The BM-1 is showing only 0.5A charge from solar panel after using a 12v 6A hoover for 10min not sure if this is correct.

I have 2 x 105ah leisure batteries along with the 95ah starter battery and if i leave a 50W 12v tv on for 6 hours the batteries are flat.

Next move is to buy a couple of class A leisure batteries hopefully that will sort it out

Thanks again for your help :-D

[aandncaravan]

That does sound like an issue with the batteries.

Both the short running time on the TV and the batteries dragging down the Solar voltage suggest they are long past it.

 

Have a look at the bottom of this page : http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/battery-technology.php

for how you can test the batteries yourself.

 

 

 

[Keithl]

blackie69 - 2018-10-04 1:22 PM

 

Next move is to buy a couple of class A leisure batteries

 

And don't rely on the NCC class ratings to get a 'good' battery! Allan has proved they are as good as a chocolate teapot!

 

Get either Varta LFD90's or the new Yuasa EFB's.

 

Search back a few threads and you'll find details (or PM Allan).

 

Keith.

[Frisby]

Hi “Grumpy Grandad”

 

Wonder if you can help as you appear to have had exactly the same electrical problems as I am presently experiencing.

 

Total leasure battery discharge.

DT 220 Panel shut down.

Replaced both engine battery and leasure battery with new fully charged ones.

DT Panel refuses to switch on. (Just displayed 12V Off).

 

Plugged in EHU I. Hope it would reset itself but to no avail as yet.

Emergency bridge for ELB proves DC syestem is working but minus water system of course.

 

Dethleffs Advantage 9 yrs old.

 

Regards

[Derek Uzzell]

Grumpy Grandad may no longer be an active forum participant as his most recent forum logon was in May 2018, but Allan (“aandncaravan”) may be able to help.