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Wireless or hard wired reversing camera


RFC7

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Hi Everyone.

Big day today, I am picking up my first Motor Home and as a newcomer I have a couple of questions.

 

1./ The Motorhome is a Hymer Exsis i588 LHD, first registered July 2015.

My first job is to fit a reversing camera and research has shown up 2 options, Wired or Wireless, I realise this must be a well aired topic but for me it is a new situation so any assistance would be very much appreciated.

 

Question 1, Does anyone know if the above Motorhome was prewired at the factory for a reversing camera?

2, How good are today's wireless cameras?

Can I link the video image to an Ipad?

If I need to fit a wired version, what is the prefered routing, under the chassis or internal?

Regards

RFC7

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If the Hymer has been pre-wired for a reversing-camera, you ought to be able to establish this by closely inspecting the area inside the motorhome where the camera would be fitted to the vehicle’s outside rear wall. Check for a panel in a high-level locker that looks like it can be removed fairly easily.

 

If you opted for a wireless system you’d need to decide how to power the rear camera. I’ve no idea if you could pair the camera with an iPad.

 

Regarding wired systems, it’s not so much a question of preference, more of practicability. If you can run the camera-to-monitor cable internally it will be protected from potential damage, but it will almost certainly not be easy. I’m guessing that most DIYers run the cable under the floor (or between floors if the motorhome is ‘double floored’) because it’s the simplest method.

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The basic wireless systems operate on an open 2.4GHz frequency. Being open the receiver/monitor can pick up any other 2.4GHz signal in the near vicinity. The digitally encrypted wireless systems although using the same frequency overcome cross channel and interference by pairing the camera to the receiver. These system give a good clear image but are rather expensive. You could pay someone to install a decent wired system and still have change from cost of a digital system.

Bluetooth transmitters are available but most are Android based. A small transmitter is placed close to the camera and heyho you pickup the image on your Android device..

 

The better wired systems use the 4-Pin Aviation type connector.This allows the camera to take its power from the monitor. One cable between the camera and the monitor. Connect the monitor to 12v and the job is done.

 

It may be difficult to locate a factory pre-fitted cable. For example on my Swift there is no indication to be found anywhere on the inside of the vehicle. Nothing in any of the cupboards adjacent to the camera. You could try asking Hymer directly.

 

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Hi

 

My E.Bay wireless works very well and only £32 !!!XXX??? I did run a power wire from the dash so I could turn the camera on on the move if required. While at it I put a fused 12v off the battery to a small centre off rocker switch to select GPS/Dash Cam or reversing Cam using a cigar lighter socket and a duel USB outlet (put behind radio to keep all wires hidden), plus a permanent 12v feed to cigar lighters. *-) (lol)

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Had a 2014 Exsis i no pre-wiring but my 2017 B678DL has. I found out after fitting my cables, no great loss as the adaptor for the Waco cables worked out at 4 times the price of the new cable and Waco cameras are silly prices.

If it is pre-wired the cables will be behind the back panel of the rear centre locker and the front left hand speaker.

Don't see the point of fitting a wireless camera as you have still got to get power to the camera & if you do get interference it will be when you need it most.

 

Make sure you but a camera with stainless steel brackets or you will have nice rust stains down the back of the van in months.

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Our experience with stainless steel brackets has not been straight forward. The first examples were painted white to match the cameras. To paint stainless steel you have to etch the surface but even so the paint flaked off after a very short time. The bare stainless steel brackets were better but to most people looked out of place. After looking at examples of corrosion it is actually the bolts which cause the problem. Steel bolts into an aluminium panel gives galvanic (or is it electrolytic, I can never remember the difference) corrosion. All you need is nylon washers between the bracket and motorhome and the bracket and camera body.
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AliB - 2017-04-28 3:52 PM

 

Our experience with stainless steel brackets has not been straight forward. The first examples were painted white to match the cameras. To paint stainless steel you have to etch the surface but even so the paint flaked off after a very short time. The bare stainless steel brackets were better but to most people looked out of place. After looking at examples of corrosion it is actually the bolts which cause the problem. Steel bolts into an aluminium panel gives galvanic (or is it electrolytic, I can never remember the difference) corrosion. All you need is nylon washers between the bracket and motorhome and the bracket and camera body.

Agree the paint can flake a bit flaked of mine on the last van but took 3 years to do it.

Why do you need any bolts stuck mine on with Sikaflex 291i, it's not going anywhere (without the van).

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This 2013 MHFacts thread discusses ‘gluing’ a reversing camera in place.

 

http://forums.motorhomefacts.com/20-motorhome-chitchat/108258-sikaflex-11fc-252-attaching-reversing-camera.html

 

However (as was pointed out there) as a largish hole in the motorhome's rear panel will need to be drilled through which the camera connection-cable can be led, being overly concerned about drilling a couple of additional small screw-holes seems rather academic. Besides which I very much doubt that the installation instructions for any system involving a conventional rear-camera would recommend gluing not screwing.

 

When I fitted a camera system to my 2005 Hobby I was concerned that the weight of the camera and the vibration while the vehicle was being driven would stress the thin unsupported aluminium skin at the top of the Hobby’s rear panel. Consequently I did what was suggested in the MHFacts thread and glued a alloy reinforcing plate to the panel and then attached the camera-bracket with screws that passed through the plate and skin. I can’t remember if I glued the bracket to the plate as well as using screws, but as I tend to over-engineer everything it’s quite likely that I did.

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