dougal Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 X250 type Motorhome Service Service intervals are confusing as Peugeot/Citroen do not agree with Fiat, but the consensus is that 15/30,000 mls. or two years is the correct interval (way more than most of us do). Many dealers seem to suggest that a little used vehicle should be serviced more frequently, whereas the manufactures only recommend more frequently for hard use. These vans are produced to run considerable mileages in the hands of 'white van man', but do not normally run at maximum load all the time - the choice is yours - very light mileage and low speeds. Perhaps a good compromise is a yearly oil/filter change yourself (or a cheap garage) and the main dealer (or VAT registered independent) every two years to maintain the warranty. My recently purchased immaculate 2013 van has had four oil changes, three habitation checks and three very expensive services, plus remedial damp repair under warranty - yet underneath many of the fittings and tank coverings/probes showed no evidence of servicing and required attention - Tank insulation re-sticking, probes lubricated (they had no external grommets over them), rear springs dry, water drain pipes flapping, handbrake mechanism not greased etc. What repair work was carried out for damp over the number plate I know not - I can see no evidence! All in 9,600mls. and £1,200 (well?) spent! The following is a suggestion for a service check list. To this should be added - brake fluid changes, air con service, coolant change. I would suggest the coolant change should have more prominence as light use does not burn off the toxic additions and more emphasis should be placed on regular use of the Air Con. If you want to do your first servicing, I would suggest some of these will be done at the annual MOT. Check operation of light switches and horn. Check underside for rust/grease/oil. Spray Waxoyl, on rusty parts (including earth connections). Check shocks/springs/mountings - grease rear spring pads. Check condition of brake fluid lines. Check steering rack and linkages. Remove road wheels – clean, check wear pattern of types and pressures. Rotate back to front if wear is apparent (most of us never wear out tyres - they die of old age). Don’t forget spare! Check operation of electric cooling fan (or just listen for it on a hot day). Check wheel bearings. Check brake pads/discs/shoes/etc. Check pedal rubbers. Check safety belts. Check windscreen wipers. Check condition exhaust system. Check windscreen for chips & cracks. Check exterior mirrors. Check all exterior lights condition. Check windscreen washers. Drain engine oil and replace filter/fill new oil. Possible oil flush? Check ancillary belt/adjust. Check drive/shafts/gators/couplings. Scan OBD II for pending faults. OBDII readers are very cheap. Check all warning lights come on and go off with engine running. Some habitation checks are just common sense – does it work! The gas is easily checked – turn on and leave for a while – turn off – leave for a while - is there a noticeable escape of gas when hob is turned on. No leaks! It is very easy for those of us who started servicing lawn mowers 55 odd years ago to not list some things we do automatically - constructive additions please, so we can end up with a definitive check list with nothing left out! (lol) *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 A few possible items to add to the list: Pollen filter, change every 2 to 3 years, DIY job @ about £8, Engine air filter, every 25k, DIY job, Grease ALCO chassis (if it has grease nipples), every year, Fuel filter, every 25k, or carry a complete filter assembly, about £80. Unplug the old and plug in the new one, DIY job. I think Nick changes the fuel filter on his fleet around the 50k mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Good list, Thanks B-) Not sure about adjusting the drive belts though? My 2008 Citroen Relay 2.2 (X2/50 with Citroen badges) has stretchy (self adjusting) drive belts. Or greasing rear spring pads? mine has rubber bushes which I can only assume are maintenance free. Citroen put the max oil change interval at 25,000 miles, but they do, of course, recommend the most expensive fuly synthetic Total oil which they have a vested interest in selling. Since I do a lot of short runs I change it more frequently, but just use normal 10w 40 B4 Semi-synthetic. However, a neighbour has a citroen car for 12years and never changed the oil. But he has only done about 10,000 miles (and it looks immaculate) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougal Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 Hi all again The comments are what i meant - easy to leave things off !!!XXX??? New schedule:- X250 type Motorhome Service The following is a suggestion for a service check list. To this should be added - brake fluid changes, air con service, coolant change. I would suggest the coolant change should have more prominence as light use does not burn off the toxic additions and more emphasis should be placed on regular use of the Air Con. If you want to do your first servicing, I would suggest some of these will be done at the annual MOT Change:- Oil & Filter (possible oil flush?) Fuel Filter every 25K mls. and drain water off. Pollen filter every 2/3 yrs. Air filter, clean/change every 25K mls. Check operation of light switches and horn. Check underside for rust/grease/oil. Spray Waxoyl, on rusty parts (including earth connections). Check shocks/springs/mountings - grease rear spring pads. Check condition of brake fluid lines. Check steering rack and linkages. Remove road wheels – clean, check wear pattern and pressures. Rotate back to front if wear is noticable (most of us never wear out tyres - they die of old age). Don’t forget spare! Check operation of electric cooling fan (or just listen for it on a hot day). Check wheel bearings. Check brake pads/discs/shoes/etc. Check pedal rubbers. Check safety belts. Check windscreen wipers. Check condition exhaust system. Check windscreen for chips & cracks. Check exterior mirrors. Check all exterior lights condition. Check windscreen washers. Check ancillary belt/adjust. Check drive/shafts/gators/couplings. Scan OBD II for pending faults. OBDII readers are very cheap. Check all warning lights come on and go off with engine running. Grease ALCO chassis yearly. Some habitation checks are just common sense – does it work! The gas is easily checked – turn on and leave for a while – turn off – leave for a while - is there a noticeable escape of gas when hob is turned on. No leaks! It is very easy for those of us who started servicing lawn mowers 55 odd years ago to not list some things we do automatically - constructive additions please, so we can end up with a definitive check list with nothing left out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 dougal - 2016-10-24 8:32 AM X250 type Motorhome Service The following is a suggestion for a service check list. To this should be added -.......coolant change. I would suggest the coolant change should have more prominence as light use does not burn off the toxic additions ...... Can I ask where you are getting your information regarding coolant change? My Citroen Servicing Schedule lists a coolant change for most Citroen models, but not the Relay (which is an X2/50 with Citroen Badges) My Fiat Ducato Handbook (2007) does not list coolant change either. (They seem more concerned about the Brake fluid as they both list a change of that every 2 years) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandy Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 I believe the manufacturers of modern antifreeze recommend a change every five years. The older ethylene glycol type has a life of two years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 aandy - 2016-10-30 12:33 PM I believe the manufacturers of modern antifreeze recommend a change every five years. The older ethylene glycol type has a life of two years. I'm no expert, I just read somewhere its not the anti-freeze that 'wears out'. Its the corrosion protection. So the change interval might vary with the materials used in the engine? Matybe some materials don't wear the protection out, or don't need so much protection? Perhaps this is why Citroen list a coolant change for some models but not the Relay? The modern red Organic Acid Technology (Autochem) antifreeze I have for topping up does not state any lifespan on the bottle. I don't know about the stuff thats in (except that its red) as it was put in from new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve928 Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 dougal - 2016-10-23 9:06 AM My recently purchased immaculate 2013 van has had four oil changes (snip) All in 9,600mls. and £1,200 (well?) spent! Are you seriously saying that your van, prior to your ownership, had 4 oil changes in 9,600 Miles! That must be some kind of (pointless) record. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Steve928 - 2016-10-30 4:53 PM dougal - 2016-10-23 9:06 AM My recently purchased immaculate 2013 van has had four oil changes (snip) All in 9,600mls. and £1,200 (well?) spent! Are you seriously saying that your van, prior to your ownership, had 4 oil changes in 9,600 Miles! That must be some kind of (pointless) record. :-) I can remember when engine oil changes were recommended every 6 months. I suppose some people struggle to get out of the habit. I can understand that because I have only recently come round to accepting the manufacturers schedule of not changing the gearbox oil :$ And yet many seem confident to ignore the manufacturers recommendation to change the brake fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougal Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 Hi all It is interesting reading the comments and shows the difference in servicing between 'Ducato' models. This was my whole idea of producing a detailed service schedule! Most garages ignore the life of the antifreeze, and I know of no test for anti-corrosion additives. The 'life' of antifreeze is 2 or 5 years according to what you purchase, but who ever changes it! The brake fluid is interesting as it is only in recent years this appears on service schedules - is modern 'improved' brake fluid of lesser quality? My new Motorhome was serviced by the supplying dealer (a big one) who used there own schedule with no brake fluid change! Just put on solar panel, with split charging and it is nice to easily monitor the batteries condition. I read a post somewhere where reading the voltage on the internal display showed full volts - this is reading the solar panel output not the actual battery voltage. Read it at night is the easiest way. Altering the wiring is lovely on my Majestic 175 as all the wiring is behind the Microwave with lots of room. Put in an invertor as well. The exhaust is not wearing as well as my previous 07 van (progress), and still has the same stupid poor rubbers holding it up! Just changed the wheels round and cleaned/painted everything, plus polished the chassis underneath. Happy servicing *-) (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 dougal - 2016-10-31 1:33 PM the exhaust is not wearing as well as my previous 07 van (progress), and still has the same stupid poor rubbers holding it up! The rubber rings holding up the big exhaust back box have a belt around them that stops it falling off when the rubber ring perishes and breaks. This happened to my van withyout me realising, resulting in an advisory at the MOT. I have just put a strong black nylon cable tie round each rubber ring for reinforcement. I suppose this is not quite as flexible as the original rubber ring, but I don't notice any difference in performance. I changed the brake fluid at 4 years. Having an easy bleed kit does a better job quicker and easier. This consists of a container of fluid, pressurised by connecting it to a tyre, that feeds fluid into the reservoir. Then all you have to do is open each bleed valve in turn. An easy one man job with no chance of getting air into the system unless you allow the reservoir to run dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 dougal - 2016-10-31 1:33 PM The brake fluid is interesting as it is only in recent years this appears on service schedules - is modern 'improved' brake fluid of lesser quality? My new Motorhome was serviced by the supplying dealer (a big one) who used there own schedule with no brake fluid change! If I was a cynic I would say changing the brake fluid takes longer than changing the oil and filter, with less mark up on the materials used. But I don't know why Brake fluid change is now recommended as often as engine oil change. My understanding is that it can absorb water reducing its lubricating and corrosion inhibiting properties, and more seriously lowering its boiling point so it could boil if your brakes got very hot. This could lead to failure of the footbrake, but I haven't heard of that actually happening. Not saying it hasn't happened, just that I haven't heard of it. But since it could happen maybe its today's compensation culture and extra safety awareness that has brought the recommended brake fluid change interval down to 2 years? Their advice has to cover bad drivers. But unless you are the sort of driver who gets their brakes very hot, maybe you don't need to change it so often. PS: Worth remembering the sort of driver who overheats his brakes is not necessarily a boy racer or whitevanman. It could well be an old duffer in a motorhome going down a long steep hill at normal speed without using his engine for braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noody Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 John52 - 2016-11-01 11:17 PS: Worth remembering the sort of driver who overheats his brakes is not necessarily a boy racer or whitevanman. It could well be an old duffer in a motorhome going down a long steep hill at normal speed without using his engine for braking.Thats interesting, a few years back I'm criticised for my habit of going down the gearbox and using engine power because brake pads are cheaper than a replacement clutch. Seems to me that some folks just have to make up for thier own lack of stature by criticising just about anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Noody - 2016-11-01 5:52 PM John52 - 2016-11-01 11:17 PS: Worth remembering the sort of driver who overheats his brakes is not necessarily a boy racer or whitevanman. It could well be an old duffer in a motorhome going down a long steep hill at normal speed without using his engine for braking.Thats interesting, a few years back I'm criticised for my habit of going down the gearbox and using engine power because brake pads are cheaper than a replacement clutch. Seems to me that some folks just have to make up for thier own lack of stature by criticising just about anything. That sort of advice may be fine for a light vehicle where it is practically impossible to overheat the brakes. Brake pads are cheap enough. Problem is that braking produces a lot of heat, and the engine is much better equipped to disperse the heat than the brake pads, because it has a radiatior and fan. The worrying thing is motorhome drivers are not trained like heavy vehicle drivers how to avoid overheating their brakes on long hills in hot climates. They have probably only driven light vehicles that are very unlikely to overheat brakes. We have had posts on this forum from drivers who have cooked brake pads. If the hill had been longer they would have reached the stage of brake failure through overheated pads if not boiled brake fluid. They don't build emergency soft ground runaway lanes at the bottom of steep hills for nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Are there any other suggestions as to why Brake fluid change is now recommended more frequently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Incidentally modern brake pads are so hard they wear out the brake discs in about the same time. But its very important to appreciate the idea of using the engine for braking is not just to save wear on the brakes!!! Its to prevent the brakes overheating on long descents with heavy vehicles, leading to brake failure. Heavy vehicles have an 'exhaust brake' fitted to the engine for this purpose. It takes the form of a valve which restricts the flow of exhaust gas, turning the engine into a compressor to absorb more energy when its being used as a brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldi Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 dougal - 2016-10-24 8:32 AM Hi all again The comments are what i meant - easy to leave things off !!!XXX??? New schedule:- X250 type Motorhome Service The following is a suggestion for a service check list. To this should be added - brake fluid changes, air con service, coolant change. I would suggest the coolant change should have more prominence as light use does not burn off the toxic additions and more emphasis should be placed on regular use of the Air Con. If you want to do your first servicing, I would suggest some of these will be done at the annual MOT Change:- Oil & Filter (possible oil flush?) Fuel Filter every 25K mls. and drain water off. Pollen filter every 2/3 yrs. Air filter, clean/change every 25K mls. Check operation of light switches and horn. Check underside for rust/grease/oil. Spray Waxoyl, on rusty parts (including earth connections). Check shocks/springs/mountings - grease rear spring pads. Check condition of brake fluid lines. Check steering rack and linkages. Remove road wheels – clean, check wear pattern and pressures. Rotate back to front if wear is noticable (most of us never wear out tyres - they die of old age). Don’t forget spare! Check operation of electric cooling fan (or just listen for it on a hot day). Check wheel bearings. Check brake pads/discs/shoes/etc. Check pedal rubbers. Check safety belts. Check windscreen wipers. Check condition exhaust system. Check windscreen for chips & cracks. Check exterior mirrors. Check all exterior lights condition. Check windscreen washers. Check ancillary belt/adjust. Check drive/shafts/gators/couplings. Scan OBD II for pending faults. OBDII readers are very cheap. Check all warning lights come on and go off with engine running. Grease ALCO chassis yearly. Some habitation checks are just common sense – does it work! The gas is easily checked – turn on and leave for a while – turn off – leave for a while - is there a noticeable escape of gas when hob is turned on. No leaks! It is very easy for those of us who started servicing lawn mowers 55 odd years ago to not list some things we do automatically - constructive additions please, so we can end up with a definitive check list with nothing left out! You can ad exhaust mounting rubbers. norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 goldi - 2016-11-02 9:20 AM You can ad exhaust mounting rubbers. norm These blighters. The belt stops the exhaust falling off when the rubber breaks. I have put a nylon cable tie around it as a belt and braces extra precaution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Re brake fluid, many modern ABS systems can be badly affected by moisture in the brake fluid. It seems to vary by manufacturer how badly they are affected, so probably depends on the design and/or component supplier. But it seems they now all go for a 'change the fluid at x miles' policy as a precaution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougal Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 New list with exhaust rubbers. I replace them with after market thicker ones. Nearly there with complete service list! List for you to copy and paste for your records. Service at Mls. on:- Change:- Oil & Filter (possible oil flush?) Fuel Filter every 25K mls. and drain water off. Pollen filter every 2/3 yrs. Air filter, clean/change every 25K mls. Check operation of light switches and horn. Check underside for rust/grease/oil. Spray Waxoyl, on rusty parts (including earth connections). Check shocks/springs/mountings - grease rear spring pads. Check condition of brake fluid lines. Check steering rack and linkages. Remove road wheels – clean, check wear pattern and pressures. Rotate back to front if wear is noticeable. Don’t forget spare! Check operation of electric cooling fan ( listen for it on a hot day). Check wheel bearings. Check brake pads/discs/shoes/etc. Check pedal rubbers. Check safety belts. Check windscreen wipers. Check condition exhaust system. Check windscreen for chips & cracks. Check exterior mirrors. Check all exterior lights condition. Check windscreen washers. Check ancillary belt/adjust. Check drive/shafts/gators/couplings. Check exhaust mounting rubbers. Scan OBD II for pending faults. Check all warning lights come on and go off with engine running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 colin - 2016-11-02 10:11 AM Re brake fluid, many modern ABS systems can be badly affected by moisture in the brake fluid. It seems to vary by manufacturer how badly they are affected, so probably depends on the design and/or component supplier. But it seems they now all go for a 'change the fluid at x miles' policy as a precaution. Good point - Braking systems have got more complex. I think I will follow the vehicle manufacturers recommendation and change the brake fluid at the same interval as the engine oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muswell Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Noody - 2016-11-01 5:52 PM John52 - 2016-11-01 11:17 PS: Worth remembering the sort of driver who overheats his brakes is not necessarily a boy racer or whitevanman. It could well be an old duffer in a motorhome going down a long steep hill at normal speed without using his engine for braking.Thats interesting, a few years back I'm criticised for my habit of going down the gearbox and using engine power because brake pads are cheaper than a replacement clutch. Seems to me that some folks just have to make up for thier own lack of stature by criticising just about anything. We have a Golf with the wonderful 7 speed DSG. It changes down descending hills and actually seems to be a gear lower than I would have chosen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Could add replacement of the stretchy belts driving the alternator & Power Steering Pump Read on another thread they should be changed at 120,000 KM (Thats 74,520 miles) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Stretchy belts would be changed with the Cam belt, but on the 2.2 engine with no cam belt they might get forgotten? Interesting movie here with a guy turning the engine both ways and working the belt on with a tyre lever, neither of which is recommended. I would be reluctant to do it without the proper tool because if you over stretch the belt it won't be any more reliable than the old one so you might as well not bother. Like changing the fuel filter by holding the housing in the vice instead of the proper tool, and cracking it. But some of the tools for the job won't fit the stepped pulley. At least he is keeping the lever away from the wheels, so can only damage the belt and whatever else the lever is touching. Doesn't appear to be stretching the belt too much either? Has to be done from below - looks impossible from under the bonnet. Fast forward to 8 minutes in - job lasts about 3 minutes; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 These are a good little tool for stretchy belts; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ribbed-Drive-Belts-Remover-Stretch-Belt-Removal-Tool-Set-Automobile-Repair/293576211562?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Makes the job easier with less strain on the belt - but they probably won't do the job on their own. You may still need to guide the belt off and on like the guy in the youtube clip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.