damp meter

[aandy]

I'm thinking of buying a damp meter. So far as I know the van is dry at present and the meter would be to help keep it that way rather than to identify a suspected problem. I have, however, seen conflicting comments on here (I think) as to the usefulness of an inexpert operator with a DIY meter. Are they worth having and, if so, which should I go for? I have read somewhere that anything up to 20% is fine, over 30% means there is a problem, and anything between should be checked regularly to see if it gets any worse. Is that about right?

 

Andy

[JohnP]

If I were you I would consider a Protimeter Aquant. Expensive but does not use pins and reads moisture content inside the material not just at the surface. Cheap moisture meter readings are easy to misinterpret and the ones with pins only read mc at or near the surface and there may be a high mc deep within the structure which is does not detect.

 

 

[aandy]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I was never intending to rely solely on my own checks and the idea was only to supplement the annual professional checks. At that price I would probably be better of increasing the frequency of the professional checks.

[tonyg3nwl]

Hi.having been let down by the dealer, i bought my own test meter, ..i cost less than 20 pounds, has 4 prods, and gives readouts in percentage on a digital display.

 

Dont waste money having dealer checks, unless you are permitted to watch them carry out the checks yourself. Insist that they open all lockers, external as well as internal, and that they use a meter that gives digital readouts expressed as percentage, NOT one of those squealy gadgets, NOR one that uses red or green leds.

 

in my case the fault was eventually traced by myself, by removing the external fridge vents, and checking the internal wall surfaces, above and below the vents. The sealing around the top vent had failed, and wet was running down an spreading forward and back along the wall either side of the wheel arch.

 

a second entry point was where cab and body were joined at frontnearside, at a point where the mains inlet cable fitting was placed. Difficult access because mains control system was all covered under the bunk, for safety reasons..

 

tonyg3nwl

 

[Tracker]

So many alleged damp checks by dealers are no more than a scam to get the p/x value down, but it seems to work as some sellers, once they hear the word damp, are petrified into getting rid asap.

 

A few simple precautions help avoid 'false' readings whatever the time of year.

Empty the lockers and open up air circulation to all the walls and especially the joints and corners.

Use a dehumidifier in the van for a day or two before getting the van damp checked.

Any signs of mould, blackness, spots etc wash and dry the affected areas.

It may only be surface condensation but it does not look nice and it does draw the eye of those looking to find problems.

Use a fan to help circulate the air.

 

I use one of these and the readings are always lower after than before and I see no need to spend silly money on anything more sophisticated.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00478VCMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[EJB]

Just replaced my old £5 meter, it 'beeped' to indicate the amount of damp, with one that gives percentages.....that too was about £5.

They both had/have pins and compared with an expensive pro model are/were surprisingly accurate.

Good for peace of mind between servicing's.

 

Your numbers are about right.

[aandy]

Thanks for the replies.

 

My concern arises mostly because of the number of potential entry points on the van. On my last van, a 2005 Swift Sundance, there were two long exposed joins where the sides and the rear panel met the roof and where the cab met the sides. The roof itself was one continuous piece which went over the cab and returned to join the cab above the windscreen. I now have a 2013 Sundance which has joins all over the place - where the rear and overcab mouldings meet the sides and the roof, where the mouldings that run along the edges of the roof meet the rear and overcab mouldings, and where those same mouldings meet the sides. In essence, four joins have been replaced with eight, of which a significant part is hidden behind capping strips so that it is not possible to inspect the seal itself. It seems that the Fiat bit is not the only part of the van that has been overly complicated by progress.

[globebuster]

As others have suggested, don't rely on a 'professional' habitation check.

It would appear very few actually check underneath, which from my experience is an area equally, if not more prone to ingress.

 

Buy a decent meter and use your own diligence.