tonyg3nwl Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Hi folks, I have received replacement light assembly and now seek fitting advice..is there a workshop manual leaflet or extract available..what body panels have to be removed? Is it a simple diy job. son in law has offered his services to assist..any special problems to overcom? personal body repairs , ribs, shoulder blade, collarbone and punctured lung, well on road to recovery. For future use, there is a valet service on edge of Ringwood, offering external steam cleaning, which seems reasonably priced and although wallet might feel a bit of pain, it is better than broken bones etc. tonyg3nwl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennyhb Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Hi Tony, pleased you are recovered. Replacement headlamp is a 5 min job, the only bit of trim that needs to be removed is the plastic piece above the lamp, from memory two screws on the inside edge and the outer side is just clipped in place, then you can get at the lamps top mounting screws. Edit: Forgot about the bottom trim Nick mentions below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroserv Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Hi Tony. First you need to remove the top plastic panel above the light. There are 2 screws to remove and it will prise out easily as long as the screws come out ok. The lower plastic trim has another screw in it and then its just a matter of gently pulling it towards you at the end nearest to the grille first and if you can place a drift (piece of plastic) between the bottom of the headlight and behind the trim to ease it out sideways it may come out without breaking a clip. If one clip does break they can be glued back on but in all honesty it will fit back perfectly well with it broken. Next you undo the three screws that secure the headlamp, move it forwards a bit to get to the electrical connector; slide the collar across to release the plug and you are out! The potential pitfalls are if the screws have never been out they may be seized in the nuts which are bonded into the headlamp. The nuts may turn with the screw but this does not matter because you are replacing the lamp unit anyway. Use hex headed screws next time and grease the threads! Your replacement headlamp may be of the later type and could require an adaptor loom to be fitted between the old plug and the new lamp. Vehicles built after 2011 have a different connector with an extra wire in it for optional DRL's. You need a large Pozi-drive screwdriver, a 10mm socket and a small flat screwdriver will help to ease the connector collar over; just put it through the loop and slide across. Have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyg3nwl Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Hi again, thhanks for the information, it doesnt sound too difficult to do. For info, the van is 2009 reg Autocruis Stargazer on Fiat base, and I am told it is likely to be the lst built by Autocruise, or more likely early Swift build frrom remnants of Autocruise parts.it doesnt have the touch lights in habitation area usually associated with autocruise, . I was also informed that Autocruise only built on Peugeot bases, so I guess it is a likely bitsa pedigree, but still a nice van . as a follow up question, does anyone know if the new fiamma bike carrier with lift mechanism can be fitted on rear.it already has a conventional carrier, which would have to be replaced..is this possible.?has rear wall got hard points for fixings above kitchen window?. 2009 reg now with personal plate. Tonyg3nwl Hospital check up in 2 weeks and hopefully remaining pains will be gone by then. thanks again for all expressions of sympathy andhelp and advice from all concerned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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