arthur49

That pair of wires look to me to be signal wires (rather than power carrying) There is an installation manual here https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1089563/Truma-Trumatic-C-3402.html?page=3#manual

bucko1 said his is under passenger seat

The way I chose a LifePo4 battery was:- - check reviews on YouTube: some do teardowns eg DC Guy so you can see the build quality - buy from reputable company - avoid Ebay Whilst I criticise Sterling above, it was not product quality that was my issue it was the after sales service

I was adamant I wanted BT functionality because the batteries arrived new, with settings all over the place and I had to adjust them. Then MikeF suggested better settings. That experience made me dig my heels in with Ben at Sterling. (I don't trust the app for state of drain, I use a Victron shunt)

Safety of "lithium" batteries:- I calmed my wife's concerns re LifePo4 batteries by showing her this (others are available!)

Interesting Karen thank you. You and I bought 2 x 100Ah Sterling lithiums at the same time. In December 2022 Daly decided to update the firmware. That wrecked the bluetooth dongle and I know from Sterling that I was not alone. (I understand the 12v supply to dongle was lost?) I had a huge struggle with Sterling to honour their warranty. My argument was I bought batteries with BT functionality. Their response was the batteries still work, they charge and discharge. Eventually they relented and replaced the batteries but it left a bitter taste and I'm afraid I now avoid Sterling products! Having received the batteries I sold them, unused and decided to go for 2 x 100Ah SOK batteries because:- - good reviews on build quality and spec - they have a lid so BMS/cells could be replaced/repaired if required https://www.europe.sokbattery.com/shop So far they have been excellent - I paid £1100 for them a year ago, they're now £800! Fogstar get excellent reviews as well. Good luck .........

My experience of diesel heaters is such that I would have one in preference to gas if I were ordering a new van BUT - on full bore they can be noisy: a significant "roar" - continuous clicking from pump - consider your neighbours as it can be noisier outside van, than in! - need 10A+ on start up, maybe 5 mins max, then settle back to 3A approx, so heavier on 12v than gas heater

Try Avanti. I'm 74 with two cancers - both stable - and I've found Avanti good. Been with them for probably 7 years or more

"There was an audible click and…" That to me sounds like a relay operating. Maybe contacts stuck and now OK? Relay contacts can 'burn' over time I believe and prevent good electrical contact

When I fitted a DC-DC charger and lithium batteries I ran 2 x 16mm2 cables pos and neg from starter battery direct to DC-DC charger bypassing the DS-520 altogether. I then pulled the fuse between the starter battery and DS-520. I've lost monitoring of starter battery voltage but otherwise everything functions as it should. I fitted a Battery Master so trickle charging of starter battery could happen from solar/mains charger, and I also have a Victron Shunt which monitors starter battery voltage as well as leisure batteries. I suspect you could fit a normally closed relay in the feed from starter battery to DS-520 activated by D+ and this way you wouldn't need to pull the fuse as I did. But Alanb is THE expert on CBE gear and hopefully he will be along shortly

Thank you Alan. The fuse did not appear blown. Multimeter also showed it was intact. But I replaced it anyway and all good. Strange ........... but I'm not complaining as I've got a D+ supply again😊

Yes ...... but I've just replaced it and its all working again. Thank you

Wildax Europa Renault Master base 2019 (used to be on my profile but seems to have disappeared?)

My CBE power unit appears to have lost the D+ signal so I can't get my Votronic B2B to run. I have managed to pick up an ignition on signal which I'm using with a 30 second delay timer so I can charge when driving, but I'd really like to use D+. Does anyone know where on the CBE unit - photo attached - I can pick up D+ other than point 17?

Keith is spot on! Exactly where is it leaking. I suspect its a fairly straightforward job of re-sealing between window frame and van body. Easily done. Remove corner pieces from blind frame to reveal securing screws. Undo, remove and blind frame comes out. That exposes the screws holding the window in. With someone holding from outside unscrew and gently push out window. Clean frame of old sealant - gentle manual scrape then clean with white spirit. Reseal with an non-setting mastic, NOT an adhesive. I used Butyrub:- https://www.soudal.co.uk/pro/products/sealants/bitumen-and-butylene-sealants/butyrub Reverse process to refit