Robinhood
-
Posts
5,317 -
Joined
-
Days Won
19
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Articles
Downloads
Gallery
Posts posted by Robinhood
-
-
My problem that led to the mirror being replaced under warranty was wildly under-reading, (by 30 degrees or more) not completely failure.
For a standard cab, the temperature sensor is a small "nipple" on the underside of the driver's-side door mirror (obvious when you find it - though if you have "mirrorguards" on, rather less than obvious.). The other locations are generally for A-class vehicles that don't have the standard Fiat mirrors.
AFAIK, there is no reset/recalibration possible.
The video I posted above showed the replacement by an aftermarket unit terminated with two bare wires, which were then joined to the existing (snipped) ones. These are readily available relatively cheaply on eBay.
Despite Fiat sometimes denying it, a complete OE unit with the terminating plug is available as p/n 1375410080, which will be considerably more expensive, and will still need the mirror dismantling to fit it. (and the plug feeding through into the door, the connections being beneath the armrest switch unit, which can be levered out; access is tight but possible - and I suspect the whole door mirror might actually have to come off for that - fiddly but not to daunting).
-
From the Ducato X/250 Training Manual, and as Steve says:
===
===
The NFR is the brake Control Node (ECU) (ABS, ASR, ESP)
-
1
-
-
This should give you some idea.
I'm pretty sure you can also get the sensor complete with end connector, but that will/would entail working inside the door as well. (which can be done by removing the switch panel on the armrest, but is definitely keyhole surgery).
TBH, I've only taken a broken mirror apart, and that was fiddly. Care will be needed.
(FWIW, I had one fail on my previous 'van whilst under warranty, and Fiat's response to that was to replace the full mirror).
-
4 hours ago, Keithl said:
Well seen as @oonagh wilkinson hasn't logged on since posting the query I doubt we will get any more help here...
TBF, one doesn't have to login to read replies, so calling someone out after a day might well be previous.
As to behaviour overall, this is the internet, no point in getting too worked up about it!
-
8 hours ago, onecal said:
Hi
Yes they are extended as on the Sherbourne and I think may be still available .
Also available from Germany
If considering Germany, just check the mirrors aren't "handed". I have a feeling that even the extended T4 mirrors aren't the same on both sides to correct for the angle from the driving seat. On the extended ones the arm might be longer on one side than the other, and the part numbers would then be different for LHD and RHD. I'm far from sure, but I would check visually.
The standard mirrors are most certainly handed and different shapes either side.
-
I read Elvis's post as saying he'd replaced the rubber band, rather than locating a replacement lock.
Looking at images of locks on Google brings up the following (very) similar looking unit:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383156362392
....complete with dimensions. It might be worth a check (and searching on the "IRN1" part number might bring other hits on Google).
-
19 minutes ago, MikeF said:
The fuse in the battery to starter/alternator cable is not a standard mega fuse, it's a CAL 4 or CAL 5 fuse. These are 'slow blowing' and allow many tens of seconds of high current to the starter motor.
Indeed, I should have been rather more correct in my terminology. 500A MTA-made one on mine (though earlier X/250s seem to have had a 150A version looking at ePer).
-
19 hours ago, John52 said:
But the batteries cannot draw more than the alternator can produce, and it has its own regulator to stop it overloading, so the wiring must be capable of that?
They can't (and they won't). The charging rate for lead-acid batteries is largely determined by their current acceptance which varies by state of charge, rather than alternator power and even at a maximum is going to be much less than, say, the 180amp output of an alternator. (which is sized to support battery charging and all other potential simultaneous electrical loads on the vehicle).
That current acceptance is, to some extent, proportional to the battery Ah, so requirement would increase by adding additional battery load. (Though, IMO, in many cases you'd have to add a lot to cause significant problems). Hence the recommendation for a more powerful alternator for uprated/auxiliary batteries.
(Just to note, the current acceptance of a Lithium battery can be much higher across the charge state range, to an extent that it is easily possible to challenge existing wiring, fusing and alternator output. That's why in many circumstances a simple drop-in replacement is not a good idea).
19 hours ago, John52 said:As I say, I am not aware of Ducato motorhomes with a bigger alternator than mine - which is the standard Bosch 180 amp. Can you say which have them and do they have a bigger wiring loom to cope with it?
Over the years alternators of various ratings have been available on the Ducato. Perusing current specs for the UK and Germany indicates that 180, 200, and 220 Ah can be specified. The UK "AWE Conversion Pack" for instance, which could/would underpin many conversions, includes the 220Ah Alternator, uprated 105Ah battery, and the converter's socket.
19 hours ago, John52 said:Does it have a separate connection to the alternator?
Yes and no. The fusebox on the battery acts as both a concentrator and and isolator for the various circuits. Each circuit is protected by a midi or mega fuse, and properly installed auxiliary batteries should go on a/the 50A fused connection. I would think the mega fuse used to protect the vehicle battery to alternator circuit is sized for the demand from the starter, rather than the charging demand from the alternator as the latter, as per above, is essentially self-limiting.
3 hours ago, John52 said:Thats understandable. My installation works well but its not idiot proof 😉
Well thanks 🙄
-
6 hours ago, John52 said:
Well I see part of my posts have gone, but are still there in other people's quotes
We have to check for ourselves as best we can. The importance of this cannot be overstated - we have seen fatalities caused by counterfeit batteries. (Moderated)
I must admit that if I were a moderator here, you would now be banned!
Moderation isn't an easy job, and I don't always agree with moderator's decisions on the various forums I frequent, but the forums aren't mine, and I wouldn't envy any moderator their task, so I accept their decisions.
Regardless of whether I agree or not with a posters point of view, continuing to post the same content that has already been moderated away for reasons that have been explained is not something I, for one, find acceptable.
The mods have my support.
-
1
-
-
I'm glad I've not let you anywhere near my 'van electrics. 😉
As Colin has said, I also interpret the 20% "ruling" to refer to the vehicle battery; the provision of additional auxiliary batteries is mentioned only "en passant" at the end (and effectively reinforces the advice that careful design and sizing will be required, preferably by a manner approved by Fiat)
5 hours ago, John52 said:But the extra power is being drawn from the same place (existing battery terminals) anyway?
which are protected by fuses
The original (base vehicle) wiring is sized thoughout the vehicle for normal demands, and it is the wiring that is protected by fuses. The whole gist of the passage is predicated on a potential requirement for additional power, potentially provided by a larger vehicle battery. There is a risk that that significant extra demand (and indeed, any extra charging demand caused by a larger battery) might exceed the wiring (and thus any fusing) capacity. At best, that will simply mean repetitively blown fuses, at worst there is a temptation to increase the fuse size and end up with wiring faults.
5 hours ago, John52 said:In any case they mention a need for an oversized alternator to cope with the extra current draw
Indeed. It would make sense to ensure greater charging capacity for greater potential battery demand. The various alternators that can be specified are largely aligned with the +20% figure specified for the battery upgrade limit.
5 hours ago, John52 said:So what difference would it make whether the current is being drawn by a bigger standard battery or by secondary batteries?
When installed properly, and in line with Fiat advice, the wiring for auxiliary battery(ies) will be almost entirely separate to that for the vehicle battery. No additional load on the input and output wiring of the latter, therefore no need to worry about wires/fuses or anything else. The auxiliary circuit requires appropriate design, though.
6 hours ago, John52 said:I am not aware of any motorhome conversions with a bigger alternator.
It's absolutely common practice to order vehicles for conversion with an uprated alternator (along with the converter's socket, etc.)
-
59 minutes ago, John52 said:
In any case, what difference does it make whether the increase is in the 'standard battery' or the batteries connected to it?
Existing wiring/fusing...
-
Thanks, Keith.
-
Talking of moderation......
It might be just me, but since people do attempt to search forum contents, would it be sensible to amend the title to read "Fogstar" rather than "Frogstar"?
Sorry, Karen (fond as I am of "Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" 😉)
(All references amended - Keithl)
-
Under different circumstances I'd ask the question of the insurer, but it is still a documented requirement on my policy.
The main factor that affects my approach, however, is that, due to the strange market conditions, the insured value has only been dropped this year for the first time, and even then by only a small amount. This leaves it still well above the threshold at which a tracker is required for new policies.
(At the insurer's behest, it was originally insured for list price, which (subject to all the vagaries of p/ex documentation) was rather more than the price quoted on my purchase order. It has just, after 6 years, been valued at that slightly lower price, after checking sale prices of comparable vehicles).
-
Just to round this off.
Having given myself some more thinking time, I've decided to replace the existing 2G tracker with one based on 4G technology.
Further research still doesn't give definitive dates, but it appears that 2G may be around in the UK for long enough to see me out, but switch-off has started in Europe (completed in Switzerland) and it looks like it will be completed in some/many countries by the end of next year (with a phased switch-off in between).
I've managed to negotiate a significant discount with the manufacturer on a replacement, with fitting on my drive, and the remainder of my existing subscription will be "rolled over".
With a bit of dismantling, I've located the current device (though not on the first few tries!) so that will be removed at swap-over.
The new device brings somewhat more facilities, most of which wouldn't alone have sold it to me, though the requirement for a separate driver-id device to identify theft with key, but without the additional "fob" present seems fairly sensible (it would appear all current endorsed units now have this). Renewal subscriptions are similar to the existing device.
-
1
-
-
On 04/04/2024 at 06:55, John52 said:
I'm a bit wary of lithium batteries after all the fires (Moderated)
...generally, the reports of fires concern the use of Li-Ion or Li-pol batteries.
The majority of Lithium "leisure" batteries marketed are LifePO4 technology - very different and inherently much less prone to any such issues. (Even conventional lead-acid batteries have their issues).
-
1
-
-
45 minutes ago, Derek Uzzell said:
I can't find a UK price list for the MAN TGE, but a GOOGLE-search on crafter panel van price list will retrieve a .pdf file for the VW "Crafter" clone.
If you "configure" a van on the MAN website, the options available are presented with a GBP price for each.
As there are a lot of options, it's not a process I'd recommend unless you have a solid interest, or want to idle away an afternoon.... 😉
-
3 hours ago, Derek Uzzell said:
.......but, having now looked more closely at the Ducato handbooks, I suspect that he was wrong about which gearbox my motorhome had.
My (only partially verified) understanding is that it was the initial Euro6 version of the 150 engine that was fitted with the heavier duty M38/M40 manual box, not the Euro5.
Though power output remained broadly similar to the Euro5, the maximum torque output was increased, (up from 350 to 380Nm) and this exceed the margins of the MLGU box.
-
10 minutes ago, veletron said:
I never received a paper manual with my vehicle unfortunately....
I don't know whether you have a downloaded copy, but if not, if you PM me (or I suspect Derek) your VIN number, I can probably provide you a Fiat download link from eLum to the manual they think matches that VIN. (which, given Fiat's record, is probably no guarantee🙄) .
-
Just returning to the original oil topic.
The FAQ on Fiat's official "Camper" site has the advice in the attachment.
Given that, I'd be prepared to contest any warranty denial if a non-endorsed but compliant oil had been used.
-
1
-
-
41 minutes ago, Steve928 said:
The manual for my 2018 150 (M40 box) states Transmission Experya 75W.
Mine's the same, but the manual definitely says Geartech (and Experya for the MLGU box).
Confusing, isn't it!
-
The manuals for that approximate year are a bit more revealing (though 2014/15 crossover can be a bit of a pain) if you look at the page with the filling volumes.
The MLGU gearbox (fitted AFAIK to most manual models below the 180 up to 2015) specifies 2.7 litres of TUTELA TRANSMISSION EXPERYA.
At just after that time, the Euro6 150 also gained (for torque reasons, not power) the M38/40 gearbox used in the 180 (and, I think, Comfortmatic). That is specified as 2.9 litres of TUTELA TRANSMISSION GEARTECH.
I can't remember which engine you have, and am certainly not sure what difference the different specs will make, but that appears to be the (FIAT) documented position.
The Petronas site, however, appears to recommend Experya across the board (engines and years).
You pays your money......
-
The features you want/need are rather personal, and will dictate your choice. Not knowing any of that renders it impossible to give a recommendation.
Be aware, however, that (assuming the implementations are similar to the Fiat) replacing the Factory-fitted radio is/can be rather more complex than that for vehicles delivered to the manufacturer as "open dash" with no radio fitted. This latter is a relatively easy job with lots of choice, the former not so.
The dash fittings are different, and for factory-fitted replacement there are likely to be a number of additional steps required (and interfaces) if the 'van has steering wheel controls, or (as is likely) the radio is integrated with the vehicle Canbus.
I'd suggest you do an initial "toe in the water" with a local, well-regarded installer and take some advice.
(and, as already stated, a check of the existing aerial is worthwhile. For a coachbuilt it is probably in the door mirror, and is an amplified unit - it's not unknown for the power feed to the aerial amp to become detached).
-
BTW, whilst you may know, you have the air intake control lever on recirculation in your picture.
That has its uses, but isn't the normal running setting. Moving the lever to the other end (exterior air) will/should improve the normal ventilation in general running.
External Temperature Reading
in Motorhome Matters
Posted
I have a complete spare OE sensor here, recovered from a mirror demolished for me by white-van man. I'm hanging onto it, just in case.
TBH, dismantling the mirror is fiddly (I think the worst bit is removing the glass without breaking it) but from working on the broken one, I'd think it not too difficult after that.
If you fit an OE sensor and have/wish to manoeuvre the plug through, then the worst bit is probably removing the Remis blind (if you have one) to reach the mounting screws. Even that isn't too bad once you've sussed how.