arthur49
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Posts posted by arthur49
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That pair of wires look to me to be signal wires (rather than power carrying)
There is an installation manual here
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1089563/Truma-Trumatic-C-3402.html?page=3#manual
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bucko1 said his is under passenger seat
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1 hour ago, joehendrix said:
interesting read. how do we know if we have a real one?
The way I chose a LifePo4 battery was:-
- check reviews on YouTube: some do teardowns eg DC Guy so you can see the build quality
- buy from reputable company
- avoid Ebay
Whilst I criticise Sterling above, it was not product quality that was my issue it was the after sales service
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15 hours ago, veletron said:
Yes, I had exactly the same issue with my Sterling Lithiums, but I never used the app anyway ......
I was adamant I wanted BT functionality because the batteries arrived new, with settings all over the place and I had to adjust them.
Then MikeF suggested better settings.
That experience made me dig my heels in with Ben at Sterling.
(I don't trust the app for state of drain, I use a Victron shunt)
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Safety of "lithium" batteries:-
I calmed my wife's concerns re LifePo4 batteries by showing her this (others are available!)
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Interesting Karen thank you.
You and I bought 2 x 100Ah Sterling lithiums at the same time. In December 2022 Daly decided to update the firmware. That wrecked the bluetooth dongle and I know from Sterling that I was not alone. (I understand the 12v supply to dongle was lost?)
I had a huge struggle with Sterling to honour their warranty. My argument was I bought batteries with BT functionality. Their response was the batteries still work, they charge and discharge. Eventually they relented and replaced the batteries but it left a bitter taste and I'm afraid I now avoid Sterling products!
Having received the batteries I sold them, unused and decided to go for 2 x 100Ah SOK batteries because:-
- good reviews on build quality and spec
- they have a lid so BMS/cells could be replaced/repaired if required
https://www.europe.sokbattery.com/shop
So far they have been excellent - I paid £1100 for them a year ago, they're now £800!
Fogstar get excellent reviews as well. Good luck .........
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My experience of diesel heaters is such that I would have one in preference to gas if I were ordering a new van BUT
- on full bore they can be noisy: a significant "roar"
- continuous clicking from pump
- consider your neighbours as it can be noisier outside van, than in!
- need 10A+ on start up, maybe 5 mins max, then settle back to 3A approx, so heavier on 12v than gas heater
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Try Avanti.
I'm 74 with two cancers - both stable - and I've found Avanti good. Been with them for probably 7 years or more
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"There was an audible click and…"
That to me sounds like a relay operating. Maybe contacts stuck and now OK? Relay contacts can 'burn' over time I believe and prevent good electrical contact
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When I fitted a DC-DC charger and lithium batteries I ran 2 x 16mm2 cables pos and neg from starter battery direct to DC-DC charger bypassing the DS-520 altogether.
I then pulled the fuse between the starter battery and DS-520. I've lost monitoring of starter battery voltage but otherwise everything functions as it should.
I fitted a Battery Master so trickle charging of starter battery could happen from solar/mains charger, and I also have a Victron Shunt which monitors starter battery voltage as well as leisure batteries.
I suspect you could fit a normally closed relay in the feed from starter battery to DS-520 activated by D+ and this way you wouldn't need to pull the fuse as I did.
But Alanb is THE expert on CBE gear and hopefully he will be along shortly
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Thank you Alan. The fuse did not appear blown. Multimeter also showed it was intact. But I replaced it anyway and all good.
Strange ........... but I'm not complaining as I've got a D+ supply again😊
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53 minutes ago, Robinhood said:
I assume the fuse at 15 has been checked?
Yes ...... but I've just replaced it and its all working again. Thank you
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Wildax Europa Renault Master base 2019 (used to be on my profile but seems to have disappeared?)
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My CBE power unit appears to have lost the D+ signal so I can't get my Votronic B2B to run.
I have managed to pick up an ignition on signal which I'm using with a 30 second delay timer so I can charge when driving, but I'd really like to use D+.
Does anyone know where on the CBE unit - photo attached - I can pick up D+ other than point 17?
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Keith is spot on! Exactly where is it leaking.
I suspect its a fairly straightforward job of re-sealing between window frame and van body.
Easily done. Remove corner pieces from blind frame to reveal securing screws. Undo, remove and blind frame comes out.
That exposes the screws holding the window in. With someone holding from outside unscrew and gently push out window.
Clean frame of old sealant - gentle manual scrape then clean with white spirit.
Reseal with an non-setting mastic, NOT an adhesive. I used Butyrub:-
https://www.soudal.co.uk/pro/products/sealants/bitumen-and-butylene-sealants/butyrub
Reverse process to refit
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You could join here and ask
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17 minutes ago, Brian Kirby said:
There's a Which? piece on dealing with unsatisfactory claims settlements here: https://tinyurl.com/2dhcdg7c
It appears that you have first to formally complain (in writing) to the insurance company, who then have a statutory eight weeks within which to explain themselves.
If you remain dissatisfied with their reply, you can then escalate to the Financial Ombudsman. I assume that your complaint will be based on the consequences for you of the insurer's slow and unsatisfactory response to your initial claim.
Without further knowledge, it isn't possible to comment on why the repairer (but who selected them?) took three months to locate a Liaka dealer. There are only 7 in England, and one in Scotland. That took me only a minute on the 'net! 🙂
I assume that in his own interest the repairer would not order parts before the insurer had confirmed acceptance of the claim? So, on the face of it, that places the insurer's loss adjuster in the firing line for his tardy visit to the repairer, and subsequent report back to the insurer, and the insurer's subsequent tardy acceptance of the claim based on the report. I just wonder if the damage might have been severe, possibly leading to internal arguments over whether write off, or repair, was the most economical remedy?
Any delay in obtaining the necessary parts can only be answered by Liaka, who I assume will invoke general post Covid production backlogs, and possible changes to your van model meaning certain items had become difficult to obtain - none of which, of course, can reasonably be laid at the insurer's door.
You haven't revealed the nature of the accident, the extent of the damage, or the model and year of your Liaka, so it is very difficult to understand the likely extent and complexity of the necessary repairs, and why so great a delay could, reasonably, in the event, have been avoided had all parties acted with alacrity.
The final element in the delay is the response of the other party and their insurer, and whether they are denying liability. You say the police report clearly places the blame on the other driver, but do you know if they are actually challenging the veracity of the police report, or just being generally uncooperative?
Does your legal insurance extend to representing you, including if necessary in court, or merely providing (verbal, as opposed to written?) advice? I ask, because it seems, given all the circumstances, that they ought to be advising you how best to proceed - and yet from what you have so far said, it seems they are not doing this. Have you therefore considered contacting Citizens Advice, to see if they can provide legal advice (I believe they have "panel" solicitors) on how to proceed without inadvertently prejudicing your case?
Is there any further detail on the accident, and the extent of the damage, that you would be comfortable providing?
As a (long!) retired claims manager with a major international insurer there are just so many questions it is impossible to answer the OP question I'm afraid!
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I have not personally hired a motorhome and claimed loss of use as I've been fortunate and not been in an accident.
But your question poses more questions.
1. what are the reasons for your motorhome not being repaired?
2. do you have comprehensive cover or third party only?
3. if you have comprehensive cover why are you not claiming on your own insurance and claiming any excess and loss of use back from the third party's insurer?
4. what are your own insurers saying about your role in the accident?
5. what are the third party insurers saying about your role in the accident?
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This is what I'd use. The rooflights have mechanical fastening ie screws so all you need to do is achieve a waterproof seal
https://www.soudal.co.uk/pro/products/sealants/bitumen-and-butylene-sealants/butyrub
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"A 12v lithium battery will happily charge to full, at charger voltages as low as 13.8 volts. Victron specify 14.2 volts charge and 13.4 float as the default lithium garage voltage."
Mike what is your view I've heard from one LiFePo4 manufacturer that the battery may charge at below 14.4v to full, but cell balancing will only occur at 14.4v - 14.6v ?
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I would not risk it without a B2B and appropriate cabling/fusing. If your van has a smart alternator how is the voltage/charge rate going to be controlled?
If you want to maximise the life of your lithium battery, alternator, charger, control unit and cabling, install properly with a B2B etc so you are presenting the battery with correct voltage/charge and let the BMS be a last resort protection.
Sorry, to me, I think its marketing bovine effluent to "drop in replace"
(I have two LiFePo4's and LOVE them. We very rarely have EHU. I would not go back to lead-acid so I am a huge fan of LiFePo4 ....... but this "drop in" nonsense .......)
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On 05/02/2023 at 16:20, arthur49 said:
UPDATE TO MY POST ABOVE
Well here we are in February and Sterling have not produced a solution yet. They are liaising with Daly the BMS manufacturer looking for a solution.
It appears the batteries charge and discharge fine but the bluetooth function is kaput. That means you can neither view nor adjust the parameter/safety settings etc
Because of that it looks like Sterling's solution is to provide a shunt, as this will show volts, current and state of charge more accurately than the BMS.
My stance is that I purchased these batteries with bluetooth functionality and I want that to be reinstated.
Its a pity Veletron has not been online here since October !
UPDATE - Sterling replaced the batteries so all good. Moral? I prefer a battery where you can access the BMS to replace if reqd eg SOK
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UPDATE TO MY POST ABOVE
Well here we are in February and Sterling have not produced a solution yet. They are liaising with Daly the BMS manufacturer looking for a solution.
It appears the batteries charge and discharge fine but the bluetooth function is kaput. That means you can neither view nor adjust the parameter/safety settings etc
Because of that it looks like Sterling's solution is to provide a shunt, as this will show volts, current and state of charge more accurately than the BMS.
My stance is that I purchased these batteries with bluetooth functionality and I want that to be reinstated.
Its a pity Veletron has not been online here since October !
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Smart BMS App for Daly BMS
My app updated automatically to v2.4.0 on 23 Dec. I now can't connect to my batteries! Version includes an update to BMS firmware which fortunately I did not attempt as reading reviews it basically appears to disable the BMS!
So if you have Smart BMS suggest you don't update app and certainly don't attempt firmware update until fix has been applied. Check reviews on PlayStore
Additional Leisure Battery blowing fuse
in Motorhome Matters
Posted · Edited by arthur49
There are some members on here with excellent electrics knowledge but I suspect a lot more detail will be needed before anyone can assist much:-
1. 'internal charging module' - make, model, part of a power/distribution unit, if so which one?
2. not sure where/how the inverter is involved as you say the fuse blew immediately - on switching on inverter or just connecting batteries? Make, model, size of inverter?
3. ideally a simple schematic of installation would help
It is impossible to say if a larger fuse is the remedy and a resistor in the feed is not the answer. You must get to the root cause of the fuse blowing, then apply the remedy