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Bleeding radiators??


MandyAndy

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We have a radiator that needs it, and has no tap at top, not a clue on it but just know it needs doing.

 

Any clues and tips would be great, Andy can undo something at the bottom and is getting hot water out of it, but as air rises and top of rad is cold bottom hot we could do with a solution.

 

Many thanks

Mandy

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I had a similar problem many years ago when the bleeding screw was rusted solid.

 

I lifted the radiator off of its brackets - there was enough movement in the pipes to allow this - check first - and then slackened both rad valve to radiator joints before tipping the whole radiator away from the wall on its side.

 

The lowest point then became the highest point and I let most of the air out of the slackened joints.

 

Put plenty of old towels on the floor before you try this as the grotty black water in the radiator goes a long way if you are unlucky and the whole thing is better done very carefully and slowly by two people.

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You know - from your description - I would put a £ to a penny that it is upside down.

 

The only thing that you should be able to adjust at the bottom of a radiator is the valves to regulate flow and to isolate it if you need to take it off the wall for decorating behind it etc.

 

If there is a bleed valve at the bottom where you need a key (or on the more modern types, a recessed small shaft with a screw driver slot in it) - then it is fitted the wrong way up - tho I have to say I have never come across this before.

 

But then I had not come across a lot of DIY bodges until I met one of my friend’s neighbours who were happily knocking out a fireplace without first removing the chimney that sat on top of it.

 

The resulting brick fall nearly killed him and cost his insurance company 10's of thousands of £'s to repair both his and my friends house.

 

I did have a house before that had no air bleed on the hot water tank - and that caused all sorts of air-lock problems until a switched on plumber figured out what the issue was. Once he had done that the problems we had just disappeared.

 

Hope you are just not seeing what is in fact there!

8-) :-S :-D

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the Radiator is definity the right way up .

 

and it is single skinned for the want of a better word , where as all the others are doubled .

 

there is a big knob at the bottom right with numbers on it which is set to 5 (max) and there is a sticky up bit at the bottom left which i have adjusted with pliers so that is at max

 

The bleeding point at the bottom right im assuming is for bleeding the whole system as there is a ridge pipe for sticking a hose on to and the square for for releasing it is bigger than the normal bleeding points .

 

I dont fancy bleeding the whole system just to get a bit of air out as pictures of floods and freezing houses seem to be passing my brain , not to mention huge polish plumber bills !!!!!

 

Temp removal jobs to make top the bottom again seem to much like hard work at this stage but it does look like the logical solution !!!

 

Perhaps i will drill a whole in the top to let the air escape :-D

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J9withdogs - 2008-10-27 4:42 PM

 

Apparently the bleed screw can be positioned on the back of the radiator, instead of the side. Might be worth a look.

 

If not, are there blank plugs on the side where the screw should be? They can be replaced with a bleed screw from a plumber's.

 

Sorted :-D

 

it was hiding on the back , behind a clevely disguised cap !!!

 

why do you need to hide something thats not on view !!!

 

Thanks for the advice

 

All i need to do now is warm my Better half up >:-)

 

Andy

 

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J9withdogs - 2008-10-27 4:57 PM

 

Must have been designed by a man ;-)

 

 

And if it had been designed by a woman I hate to think of the procedure that would be needed to get it working smoothly!

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Tracker - 2008-10-27 4:59 PM

 

J9withdogs - 2008-10-27 4:57 PM

 

Must have been designed by a man ;-)

 

 

And if it had been designed by a woman I hate to think of the procedure that would be needed to get it working smoothly!

 

Careful, Rich, I have a new hammer drill and I'm not afraid to use it :D :D

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Hi Mandy. If there is a problem with one radiator then you might be better off draining the whole system and giving it a good flush through at the same time. Most probably just a air lock in the one rad, but supprising how much muck collects and something I try to do at least every 3/4 years.

Given the cost of energy supplies you might also consider how many rads you really need on. We have nine, but only 4 going at the moment as its pointless heating the whole house when only using half the rooms. Same as only putting enough water in the kettle for what you need and easy enough to turn back on if you need to.

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J9withdogs - 2008-10-27 5:09 PM

 

Tracker - 2008-10-27 4:59 PM

 

J9withdogs - 2008-10-27 4:57 PM

 

Must have been designed by a man ;-)

 

 

And if it had been designed by a woman I hate to think of the procedure that would be needed to get it working smoothly!

 

Careful, Rich, I have a new hammer drill and I'm not afraid to use it :D :D

 

 

 

 

You do know that you can't bang nails in with it J9 dont you.

 

Mick

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J9withdogs - 2008-10-27 6:56 PM

 

No, really? I wondered why it wasn't working!!!..... >:-) :D

 

It probably doesn't work properly because you bought a female version - take it back and ask for a man size tool that will be more use to you - sorry shall I reword that - take it back and ask for a man size drill!

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They don't make female versions Rich, if they did, they would do the job without a fuss, with very little noise and not making a mess ... now show me a drill that can do that. :D

 

Janine ... got any more nice power tools then? We could probably do some serious damage with them to the guys on here between us ...... >:-) ;-)

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Mandy&Andy - 2008-10-27 4:50 PM

there is a big knob at the bottom right with numbers on it which is set to 5 (max) and there is a sticky up bit at the bottom left which i have adjusted with pliers so that is at max

 

The bleeding point at the bottom right im assuming is for bleeding the whole system as there is a ridge pipe for sticking a hose on to and the square for for releasing it is bigger than the normal bleeding points .

 

For future ref. this is what you seem to be describing

Big valve with numbers- proboly TRV (thermostatic radiator valve)

Sticky up bit adjusted with pliers- lock shield valve

bleeding point with hose attachment- drain valve!

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Tracker - 2008-10-27 4:35 PM

 

I had a similar problem many years ago when the bleeding screw was rusted solid.

 

I lifted the radiator off of its brackets - there was enough movement in the pipes to allow this - check first - and then slackened both rad valve to radiator joints before tipping the whole radiator away from the wall on its side.

 

The lowest point then became the highest point and I let most of the air out of the slackened joints.

 

Put plenty of old towels on the floor before you try this as the grotty black water in the radiator goes a long way if you are unlucky and the whole thing is better done very carefully and slowly by two people.

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peter - 2008-10-27 8:01 PM

 

Tracker - 2008-10-27 4:35 PM

 

I had a similar problem many years ago when the bleeding screw was rusted solid.

 

I lifted the radiator off of its brackets - there was enough movement in the pipes to allow this - check first - and then slackened both rad valve to radiator joints before tipping the whole radiator away from the wall on its side.

 

The lowest point then became the highest point and I let most of the air out of the slackened joints.

 

Put plenty of old towels on the floor before you try this as the grotty black water in the radiator goes a long way if you are unlucky and the whole thing is better done very carefully and slowly by two people.

 

Read it again and see Peter!

It won't work in every location but sometimes there is enough movement even if it does mean having to touch up the decor afterwards.

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