Stick-in-a-mud?

[Usinmyknaus]

Too right Tracker! Last trip the van got off to a good start from the plastic trays and ramps on wooden planks with the dif locked by "mud/snow" mode on the autobox but had almost ground to a squelchy halt when rubber just kissed the concrete of the farmyard and very fortunately, got enough grip to climb out. Just as well I had parked only 5 metres into the field, on the spot recommended by the site owner.

 

Bob

[Rainbow-Chasers]

Wet grass is considered as snow. (It has the same grip characteristics) When driving on it, keep momentum going, and gentle acceleration.

 

When pulling away, treat as snow. If you get stuck, search the site area for dead tree/bush branches and place under the wheels. Drive away as normal. This is called a 'Canadian Winch'. It works too!

 

Stop when you get to firmer ground and clear up!

 

Alternatively, you can buy 'waffle boards' from most 4x4 stores. These are plastic grids that are used on mud and sand (also called sand ladders). These are placed under the wheels, with a peice of suitable rope/string tied to one end, and attched to the rear of the vehicle with the other end. You drive away, and effectively drag them along behind until you get to better ground

[Usinmyknaus]

Rainbow Chasers. Thanks for the tip on dry brushwood etc, duly noted. This weekend was very touch and go. CL owner was confident grass surface OK but I only just got pitched and had to leave van off level as could not get enough grip to climb ramps before dark. Much higher than forecast rainfall Friday night meant I decided to re-locate to hard standing by an industrial unit at first light and give up pretty orchard view. I had pitched facing downhill and directly at the gate. Plastic tray and one inch of ramp gave enough "go" that with "snow mode" and gentle throttle I barely made the hard stuff by the gate some 8 metres away.

 

Two close calls in 2 trips so I will look up the "waffle boards" you mention and look again at GripTracks. When researching sand ladders before I gave up on them because the ones I found were metal, about 20 Kgs a pair and very bulky but the ones you mention sound more promising.

 

Bob

[Guest Tracker]

I have a set of Canadian made 'Snow Traction' traction aids which, fortunately, I got very cheap from a guy who said as he sold them that they were a waste of space, and at almost 4kg not light!

 

They are made from heavy steel and are about 20" long and about 8" wide when extended and they fold up to fit in their 8" x 7" x 3" box for storage.

 

They are very well made and certainly look the part - but that's where it ends - as being flexible they are useless in mud or snow unless there is a hard surface for them to bite into underneath the top layer of gunge.

 

They did once get my car out of light snow on a tarmac hill - but then I had to walk back to retrieve them!

 

But they have twice failed to get the van out of muddy grass and have not seen daylight in over 10 years now!

 

The whole point of this is to enlighten those of you who still believe that flexible grippers will get you out of the thick brown stuff once the wheels have sunk more than an inch.

 

They probably won't as the weight of the van usually just pushes the gripper further into the soft stuff where mud oozes out over the surface and prevents the driven wheels gripping the gripper.

 

There are times when gripper tracks may work but deep mud ain't one of them. As long as you know what to expect gripper tracks might have their place in your locker, but in my experience something more substantial and less flexible is needed when the going gets really sticky.

[bjp]

I am very grateful for all of the advice. One product, which I've just discovered seems to help in mud, snow & sand. Although it can be fitted if you anticipate trouble, it can also be fitted (apparently), if you get stuck.It isn't especially cheap-£125, there was a review in MMM Dec 2006, it is called Go-Claw from Van Comfort. I have contacted them. I wondered if any forum users have recent knowledge of this product?

[Guest Tracker]

Had a quick look at go claws and have the following observations.

 

I would expect them to get you out of mud and snow as long as they can get a grip on a hard surface beneath the slippery stuff and maybe as a snow chain alternative they might have merit - I don't know because I have not used them - or snow chains recently.

 

However as the driven wheels tend to dig them selves deeper in the mud the harder you try to get out, I can quite see go claws helping to dig an even deeper hole on soft ground rather than dragging you out - unless you have them fitted before you try and move off - unlikely maybe?

 

Trying to fit them onto mud embedded and encrusted driving wheels on a stuck van with reduced ground clearance would be an interesting experience - and one which I would prefer not to try!

 

They may well have their place but I am not convinced that getting out of any sticky stuff that lacks a firm base to bite on would work.

 

Unless anyone else knows different?

 

 

[Brian Kirby]

The important thing to remember is that even 3.5 tonne motorhomes are likely to have around, and possibly in excess of, one tonne per wheel sitting on the ground.  If the ground is at all soft the tyre will sink a little, and once all four tyres have formed their little divots a surprising amount of traction is required to climb out of them. 

As has been said, flexible materials distort under load and, under extreme conditions, will do so sufficiently to prevent drive-away, merely shooting out from under the wheel. 

A further consideration with rigid materials is that they will tend to tilt up when you drive off, as the loaded end sinks under load.  This tilt can be sufficient to jam the spreader under the bodywork.  For this reason it is desirable to avoid the front set of spreaders with the rear wheels, when driving away, as these will be more inclined to rock, and rear up, when attacked a second time.  The larger the spreader the better, but you then have to house, and carry, them.

Easily stated, I know, but it is best to arrive in daylight and not after dark, and if in the slightest doubt to look carefully at, and walk on, the ground before driving onto it.  If it yields under your foot, it will yield under the tyres.  If it is visibly rutted or uneven, it will probably become soft when wet.  All things considered, the best maxim is "if in doubt, stay off the grass" (or sand). 

Dry grass is a delight in warm, sunny, weather, but not especially agreeable in wet weather: it holds moisture, and traipsing through wet grass makes footwear additionally wet/muddy.  Stepping into your van on a wet day, gravel or tarmac outside the door creates much less mess, and your wheels won't sink!

[Derek Uzzell]

The Go-Claws website is this:

 

http://www.flextrax.com/

 

and I came across the following intriguing reference to the company!

 

http://www.ripoffreport.com/reports/0/128/RipOff0128147.htm

 

I still think the Spikes Spider product offers the best hope if you get bogged down,

 

http://www.spikes-spiders.com/

 

but it certainly isn't cheap.

[bluebail10]

I find with my motorhome when on wet grass & one of the front wheels starts to spin you must stop trying to drive off immedietly, i then let both front tyre pressures down to about 10 - 15 p.s.i. to give a bigger footprint, then push the grip mats as far under the tyres as possible, not forgetting to peg them, if you dont they will just spin out, the crucial thing then is to be very gentle on the throttle, almost to the point of stalling. This dodge works on mud & snow as well

[Ranger]

Yes bluebail10, This is, of course, a cure rather than a preventitive measure, and is highly recommended in back threads over the years. Got to have a good 12v tyre pump of course...........

[getaway]

Really useful info regarding stuck in mud. My storage site is on grass and I hadn't realised just how soggy it was, or the effect of the tyre depressions had on traction (or lack thereof!) I committed the cardinal sin of trying to power my way out and failed dismally, just watching the mud flying past the window as the wheels went deeper! As no help was available, it took a trolley jack. mounted on a very solid block of wood to lift each front wheel in turn sufficient to get two lengths of 8x2" timber (liberated from a previous employment) underneath and, hence out of bog. A lot of hard mucky work, but lesson well learnt. Thanks for all the tips :-D

[Whiskeymac]

Using a jack on soft ground is a nightmare.  Has anyone used a Draper Inflatable Airbag jacking system on a motorhome? 

http://www.care4car.com/productdisplay/productid/279/Draper_Inflatable_Car_Vehicle_Air_Bag_Jack_3_Tonne.html  We used them in the Saudi desert on long WB Landrovers when terminally stuck and they were brilliant. Our standard procedure for lesser events was to shovel away the sand in front of all tyres and wedge 2ft sand ladders in front of the driven wheels.  These were made of angle iron with the Vs pointing downwards.  The short length was sufficient and they didn't jam in the works like the old long mats did.  I've not tried them on mud.  The grip track looks like them but without the rigid sides.  http://www.griptrack.co.uk/welcome.htm

[Whiskeymac]

Whilst on this subject I believe it's worth mentioning, if only as a warning to the unwary, that CL sites often place the fresh water and waste emptying facilities in boggy locations, sometimes even at the bottom of a slope; a potential catastrophic bog-in situation.  Learning the hard way, I now check this thoroughly, and if at all in doubt, use a carrier to tote water to the M/H and a bucket to relay away the grey water.  A full tank of the latter weighs a great deal and emptying before driving can influence your chances of escape from a wet site.

 

It would also be very helpful if overhanging trees above facilities could be pruned, to allow M/H access, but that is a different subject, unless it pushes you off hard standing onto a boggy patch.

 

[OurCassy]

Hi all, Mr. Newby here. I've been reading the threads on this posting & am surprised that there has been no comment from Derek Uzzell's mention of Spikes Spiders. I've recently had to sell mine as they would not fit our new MH. I've had a set of these for over 10 yrs. But only had to use them twice.

With a slight adjustment to the chains, I was able to fit them to our previous 3 MHs but they wouldn't fit our present MH as the wheelnut size is different. They are pricey & heavy to carry around, but had I not had them on those 2 occasions, I'd have been in deep trouble, literally. The beauty of the S/S is that they can be fitted in minutes even AFTER you are bogged down. I haven't replaced them yet & was sorry to see them go. So for now it's planks of wood & fingers crossed, as we mainly use CLs.

 

BeeJay

[Derek Uzzell]

OurCassy - 2009-10-01 7:01 PM

 

...I've been reading the threads on this posting & am surprised that there has been no comment from Derek Uzzell's mention of Spikes Spiders....

 

BeeJay

 

The reason for the earlier lack of follow-up on Spikes Spiders is almost cetainly because nobody was in a position to do so. On paper, they seemed to me to be the only product that directly addressed the original enquiry. It's helpful to learn that they are effective in practice.

[Travelling Tyke]

I am a plywood under the wheel man when parking on grass, so far it's worked out ok. I also carry a tow rope in case I need a little gentle assistance!

 

The tow rope is this one, http://cpc.farnell.com/_/strl/4-ton-4-metre-towing-strap/dp/CP01062

 

It takes little space but provides reassurance. :-D