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Yellowing


crag

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I've got a '95 Kon-tiki and was wondering if there was any way of getting rid of the yellowing of the side panels, and if anyone has acheived this.

It's been getting a bit of a scrub with Farecla 6 but was wondering if I needed somethnig a bit more course.

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Have you tried Ldls W5 Bathroom Mousse??????very easy to use, just do what it says on the can. Started using it years ago on my old Holdsworth Ranger and have used it on both 'vans since then. Even removes those stubern black marks in minutes with no hard work.....Spray it on, leave for 10 minutes, then wash it off hose and a soft brush, no hard rubbing required.
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crag:

 

As you've already used Farecla G6 unsuccessfully, then you need to be very careful trying something even more abrasive. There's a fair chance that, with a 13-year old motorhome, the yellow discoloration will be deep within the side-panels' gel-coat, not just on the surface. Should that be so, then (as Janine says) there's not a lot that can be done about it other than to have the panels painted. If you do damage the gel-coat by over-enthusiastic use of a harsh cutting compound, the end result won't be attractive unless you are a fan of the Albino Zebra look. Might be worth you taking the vehicle to a car bodywork/valeting specialist for advice on the best way forward.

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Thanks for all the replies.

I tried the Bathroom Mousse as a last attempt to clear up the yelllowing but it failed

I've searched all the forums for past threads on this subject, each includes many ideas but I haven't found anybody that has actually achieved removing the yellowing. Not that I wasn't listening to J9withdogs saying there's nothing that can be done about it :$

 

If anybody comments on the colour of my van I shall inform them it's 'two-tone' :->

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A lot of the 'cures' seem to involve acid of some sort or another

 

For instance

 

"mix 1 part Lysol toilet bowl cleaner (the blue kind) with 1 part hydrogen peroxide."

 

"Sno Bowl, mixed about 4 parts water to 1 part Sno Bowl, and sprayed on with a pesticide sprayer. Keep in mind that the active ingredient is hydrochloric acid, so don't leave it on for more than 5 minutes, and wash it off of aluminum and zinc's immediately"

 

Eeek - not sure I would want to risk that! Reminds me of the the old joke 'I wonder where my teeth all went, when I brushed them using Steradent'

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The reason that gel coat is always white and is never painted is that any other colour absorbs more sunlight and gets warmer which damages the gel. It is the same heat that causes the yellowing of white get coat.

 

I HAVE A SOLUTION but you will need to be brave on a small test area. The problem is fairly common with gliders which are covered 100% in gel coat (and remember they spend 95% of their lives either in a trailer or a hangar with a metal roof shielding them from UV/IR sunlight). Try it on a small test area, preferably flat as it's easier for beginners.

 

Using a cork sanding block wrapped in 1200 grit wet and dry, sand the offending area with smooth circular movements whilst playing water from a hose continuously on the are you are sanding - this prevents any heat build-up damaging the gel coat. This will remove the tiienstsliver of the top surface of the gel. Dry the test area and see if the yellowing has improved by comparison with the untreated area. If not the yellowing goes right through and there is NO solution.

 

If it has, treat the whole 'van the same way. For curved areas use a hard spnge to hold the saning sheet with.

 

Then, whichever outcome applies, repeat the treatment of the treated area, this time using 2000 grit wet and dry and a hose of water. This will leave a smooth, matt surface. Now you need to obtain a block of hard wax and a buffing polisher to fit a power drill. Apply the wax to the surface and use the buffer to spread and polish to a fine shine. (You can do this by hand, but you may regret tring to!) Take great care not to let it slip and damage the surface.

 

Finally polish with a silicone-free polish (Gel coat hates silicone) such as Car-lack (Google for details). Note that the more commonly available Mer contains silicone (I have checked with the suppliers). Repeat the polish annually.

 

Mel E

====

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Not sure if this will work with an overall yellowing. On my yacht I get yellowish stains near the waterline, particularly when in Dutch inland waterways for some reason. I use "Y10" to remove the stains. Its available in yacht chandlers and is a blue gel which you spread on and leave for a short while. Its suitable for GRP. Its so good that I often have to clean the whole area as you can clearly see the bright white area that has been treated. It is quite expensive, about £10 for a smallish tub, but goes a long way. I would suggest testing a small inconspicuous area first.

 

David

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