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Mercedes service costs. An illustration.


libby

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Crawley in Sussex and the Southeast of the UK may be expensive to some, however I enclose today's costing.

 

This was a first service, well under the 20,000 miles requested in the service booklet, however being little used I decided the cost worthwhile.

 

The total was £257.68. This included an MOT and them driving to a test station for the MOT, where presumably they had to wait?

 

Description of goods/services. This comprises of £76.00 labour. £98.72 parts. (=£174.72) plus MOT £56.75. plus VAT of £26.21 = £257.68.

 

The technician report states all brake discs corroded. I will confer with him tomorrow regarding replacement. All staff were pleasant in their duties.

 

I can supply a further breakdown on a PM.

 

PS I forgot to say this was at a Mercedes sale and repair Dealer under the overall name of Rossets Commercials

 

Bill

 

 

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I suppose if you only had it serviced once in three years that's not too bad.

 

I've just had my third annual service for my Fiat 2.8, and in total I've paid less than you've paid in total. 'MOT' not due 'til next year. It's after four years and then every two here in Spain. So that saves a bit.

 

My official Fiat dealer charges 31€ per hour labour.

 

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The local Merc garage where you live is probably in the same price bracket.

 

The Merc has an indicator telling when the air filter is in need of replacement, in 11 years mine never got near this point.

 

How much will a broken cam belt cost you to replace in your Fiat? The Merc has no belt to break.

 

Do your own servicing and take advantage of Halfords annual half price offers on full synthetic oils.

 

C.

(Still with a Merc)

 

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The next service will most likely be after 1 year.

 

The brake discs I looked at with a torch this evening, (corroded ?) well I suppose that would be a description but in fact they have a surface rust, which on a high grade material would be minimal, so I'll not be seeking any more info.

 

Like many users not a lot of braking is done, we avoid town centres choosing open roads for convenience with little braking . The nearest decent hill to use hard braking is about 200 miles away.

 

Otherwise its "carry on Camping"

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fortunately I dont own a sprintshift but in saying that I know people who do and apart from being slightly slower through the gears they are trouble free. Some years ago I drove one of the first commercial vehicle EPS gearboxes, now that was troublesome and took the best part of a year to iron out and now are one of the best gearboxes available, Mercedes of course.
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Hi libby, no disrespects, but I think its a bit iresponsible to drive any vehicle with brakes which are not as near 100% as possible, what if someone walked in front of you ect.

Try driving with brakes on to clear rust at least, if possible, if not new discs are the only answer, I think you would be in big trouble in the event of any type of accident if your brakes were defective.

Years ago I dove my car out of our road after standing for a couple of weeks, when I braked at the end of our road I went straight across and I was not going fast as we live in a single track(road).

Cheers

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Trooper,

 

No problem, I'm not likely to go whizzing up the road to the first junction without lots of brake 'dabbing'.

 

My whole life has been in metalworking so I'm familiar with the deteroration of surfaces such as these. The oxide dust although very light at the moment still represents a barrier to the efficiency of the clamping action so am well aware of the hazard.

 

We have no hills around here where we can go and use the brakes in anger. Town centres yes but not somewhere where one can get a spurt on in between braking.

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There is no need for a hill to clean off the discs, find a quiet stretch of road, get up to the the maximum legal speed ( ideally 60mph +) and when safe brake hard down to rest. Repeat half a dozen times.

 

Pitting has to be quite severe to need disc renewal. It normally occurs if left standing for weeks when moisture lies between pad and disc. Electrolitic action may be involved between metallic dust in the pad material and the disc

 

After prolonged gentle use pads tend to glaze and not work to well when needed in a hurry and the same hard braking routine freshens them up.

 

The old trick of left foot braking with the right on the throttle does not work on vehicle with electronic engine management. A split second after braking is detected the power gets turned off resulting in a a mild nose dive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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trooper - 2009-01-29 7:45 PM

 

Hi libby, no disrespects, but I think its a bit iresponsible to drive any vehicle with brakes which are not as near 100% as possible, what if someone walked in front of you ect.

Try driving with brakes on to clear rust at least, if possible, if not new discs are the only answer, I think you would be in big trouble in the event of any type of accident if your brakes were defective.

Years ago I dove my car out of our road after standing for a couple of weeks, when I braked at the end of our road I went straight across and I was not going fast as we live in a single track(road).

Cheers

With respect Trooper, actually there will be a greater braking effect, because of the extra friction from the rusted surface instead of a polished shiny surface. Think about it.
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Hi Peter, sorry but what you said was absolute rubbish, if you read my bit and saw what happened to me, and I was only going slow at the time,

Just a note I have driven all from motorcycles to HGVS Plus high performance vehicles in my 50 years driving, doing great mileages, I run 4 vehicles now so I am not an amateur.

Cheers

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