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silly question about battery connection


Champstar

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You would normally replace the large battery clamps on the cables with crimped on eyelets. These would then be bolted onto the threaded posts with nuts and washers. Really the batteries just give you the option as suppliers of the dual post batteries are trying to make it easier for those replacing fully sealed AGM batteries where connections are made with eyelets.

Don't be tempted to clamp the copper wires themselves, the post is not designed for this and will be a less realiable connection.

Another andvatantage with dual posting is you could parallel up battereies using the standard heavy posts, but connect your load wiring to the threaded posts. An advantage? Just a little as saves doubling up cables into a battery clamp.

Hope this helps.

Jon.

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Hi,

 

My favourite set-up is eye-lets on the end of the cable, held onto the clamp by the clamping nut. That way you can connect the cable to either type of battery.

 

It also means that if the clamp is corroded, stretched, or broken, you just need to buy a new clamp instead of a complete cable. Funny, when I was younger, most clamps were corroded. Nowadays, I'm finding more that are broken. ???? At least they seem to have stopped using those caps held in place with a self-tapping screw.

 

602

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Oh yes,

 

When disconnecting battery leads, always disconnect the EARTH lead first, and reconnect it last.

 

If you want to know why, try touching a spanner on the positive terminal and the body. NO! Do NOT do that, just imagine it. But a spanner connecting the earth terminal to the body does...er...nothing.

 

602

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If you can, solder the connectors on, you can use a crimp on and then run some solder over the connection.

 

The reason is that a good crimp done with a proper tool and connector is fine on it's own. A cheap connector and DIY crimp tool will give a poor joint, just try pulling hard on such a joint, it will come undone. The solder will make a good electrical connection as well lowering the joint resistance, (important in high amperage applications).

 

Geoff

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Brambles - 2009-04-29 11:22 PM

 

These would then be bolted onto the threaded posts with nuts and washers. Jon.

 

Is it ok to just use normal nuts and washers or do they have to be insulated?

 

I am not very savy when it comes to electrics.

 

cheers

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Idealy same material as post, a hardened lead alloy, but failing that in order of preferance - plated brass, plain brass, plated steel ones. If you have high loads from the battery I would use brass nuts and washers.

Smear with Petroleum Jelly and wipe off excess. (not like engine battery where you smother it, you just need a very light coating wiping to just leave a thin smear. Take care not to over tighten.

 

 

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Champstar - 2009-04-30 4:53 PM

 

Cheers thanks for that all I need to now do is measure the size of the posts to getthe correct size of nuts.

 

Hi Champster.

I think you will find the threaded stud is a 5/16-18-UNC thread.

Nohing is ever simple. I am assuming your battery is an Exrider. If it is a Numax it should have come with nuts.

Am I right with Exrider?

You mentioned somewhere about your battery voltage dropping after fitting second battery. Have you resolved this as the new battery may be a differrent type being a sealed no maintenance type where as existing battery might be an open flooded battery.

If you wish to post the details of both your batteries I could have a look at this....at the moment cannot get my brain around why both would not charge up fully but likely to be when the charger switches into trickle charge mode one of the batteries (maybe the new one) does not complete it's charge cycle and get fully charged. You may find the new battery requires a slightly higher charge voltage up to 14.8 volts not 14.4 (gel settings) . I know it is not a gell battery, but being zero maintentance sealed will have similar chemistry for the plates which may increase the charge voltage required. I suggest trying the new battery on its own and charging in vehicle and see what the results are like.

Jon.

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Thanks

 

The newer battery is a numax but I have discovered that the threaded posts are different diameters...very confusing this.

The post about the battery dropping and not charging is no longer the problem, it was a suggestion for another problem where I have lost half of my 12v circuits....the charger has 2 user circuits and one is no longer working. This one had the fridge wired to it. It was a gradual loss of the circuit as the fridge worked ok but some of the lights failed then all failed over a few weeks.

It seem that it is suggested that it may be a wiring fault. I think it may be more likely that the charger has a problem.

Any ideas how to trace if it is a wiring fault.

 

pulling what hair I have left out 8-) 8-)

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Hi Champstar, I'm not an expert on Lunar, but all electrical circuits are the same, current flows from a positive towards earth (negative) so with one or two batteries connected, remove all the fuses for the habitation, do the battery (ies) still discharge, if not replace the fuses one by one until you find which service is draining the battery. If the battery still drains with all the fuses out then remove it from the van all together, charge fully and leave for a few days, does it discharge? if it does then it's had it, if it doesn't then there's a service that does not go through the fuse box so look for an added accessory. It's not likely to be a light, as you'd see it, it's more likely to be an aerial amplifier or something like that.

 

Please, experts, I'm using the conventional current flow here not the actual.

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