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To paint or not to paint?


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Some of the interior finish on the woodwork in our van is looking decidedly thin and worn, particularly the cupboards under the sink and cooker, and the toilet door. Not surprising I suppose as the vehicle is 14 years old and has been well used and enjoyed. As it may be a few years yet before we can afford to replace it, I've been wondering whether to strip the old finish off the worst affected cupboards and drawer fronts and try to redo with a matching woodstain. Is it better to leave it in its original, rather worn looking state, or shall I do my best to refurbish it? The outside of the van is in really good nick, and hopefully has many years of life left, a new carpet or reupholstery would update it, but the woodwork is letting it down. Do you think it would be a mistake to try and do it up? I know people love to have things looking original? :-|
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Hi Josie

 

Our's is 11 years old and we're beginning to face the same quandry as you. The varnish is starting to wear a little thin on some of the cupboard doors - as with you, the kitchen is the worst bit.

 

Once I can pluck up courage I'm going to have a go at cutting back the existing varnish with wire wool, then recoating it with a sheen varnish. Guess I'll try a bit that isn't too obvious first just to see how it looks.

 

Good luck with yours, and let's hope someone comes along who has already done this and gives us both some advice.

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I've not tried this myself, but I would go easy with the wire wool as I assume these are thin wood veneers and not actual wood.

As mentioned, it would be best to try it somewhere 'out of sight' first, with a very fine wire wool.

 

Good luck

 

:-|

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Josie

 

Very few modern wood surfaces, either at home of in a M/H are made from solid wood. The underlying material is very likely chipboard, moulded to a door shape under stringent factory condition in large steam controlled moulding presses. Sometimes the outside edges are solid but little else.

 

The finishes surfaces may be a thin veneer or even a photographed finish like any photograph.

 

You will be attempting a revamp that may be impossible to correct once you have committed to a surface.

 

If you must, then choose a small door, remove from its fixing, lay flat on a soft cloth and experiment on the INSIDE only, you can make several attempts until you achieve what you consider is correct for you.

 

Only then should you consider any outside surfaces. And remember what may have been easy on a flat surface will be doubly difficult on a vertical surface in an awkward position.

 

Remember also it may look worse than what you have now, and may well haunt you for the rest of your days.

 

You don't say what colour the surfaces are; I assume they have a 'varnish' appearance.

 

Personally I would never attempt any 'change of surface' only using a wax polish to brighten the dull areas.

 

As a previous member has suggested the surfaces may be a thin veneer. Any treatment other than a damp cloth or a polish may end in a total mess.

 

Bill

 

 

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josie gibblebucket - 2009-06-16 10:19 AM

 

Sorry if I'm being a bit thick, but can you use products made for real wood on veneer then? Isn't veneer just thin layers of wood glued together? I did wonder whether the cupboards were made of "real" wood or not.

 

Josie

 

As I understand it wood veneers are very thin layers of wood which are bonded to panels made of particle board or fibre board or something similar.

Actual 'wooden' furniture in a van would be very heavy and I should think very expensive.

 

I have done some DIY work over time using veneer strips and always found them to be very easily damaged, although I've not tried restoring their finish with wire wool.

 

 

 

:-|

 

p.s. Libby has beaten me to it !

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The recent Caravan Club magazine featured a makeover on a van's interior,not to my taste but it shows what can be done.

You can do the same job on a kitchen at home which generally is constructed in a similar fashion to vans furnishing.

For painting key the surfaces and use ESP primer first,then apply your choice of colour.

Because you are in an enclosed space ensure plenty of ventilation which will also help the paint to dry.

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Thanks malc

 

Josie, no you are not thick. Modern methods of production are aimed to produce a pleasing effect at the least cost.

 

No longer do we ONLY produce planks of wood from trees.

 

There are industries set up where trees are felled and 'chipped' on site, then transported by bulk carrier to a factory that may be in another country.

 

The chipped material is then fed into machinery just like your food mixer at home, then into shaped moulds that make your motorhome parts.

 

Its simple and very cost effective. To try and re-condition these materials is not easy.

 

Bill

 

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josie gibblebucket - 2009-06-16 11:18 AM

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I didn't want to rush in and then regret it. I think I'll take one of the smallest doors off as suggested and have a little "practice" on the back. :-)

 

 

I'm sure a lot of people will be interested to know how you get on.

 

 

:-|

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There are two types of veneer used and you first have to establish which type you have.

 

The first is veneer made from solid wood which is bonded to a base material. The veneer comes in a variety of thicknesses from about quarter of a millimetre thick, upwards. If this has been used you could certainly use wire wool to rub the surface down before applying another finishing coat.

 

The second are panels which are wrapped with foil which is bonded to the surface of the base material (usually looks like wood but is actually a foil with a photographed surface). This is almost impossible to repair.

 

To make the work easier, remove the door from the cabinet so that you can work on a flat table/bench. Protect the underside of door with an old blanket. A little bit of investegation should prove which material you have. Find a place which where it will not show later eg. by removing a handle and checking what is underneath. Or use the back of the door.

 

I would not attempt any staining because if you do not remove all of the old finish a patchy surface will result. Any polish left will resist the application of the stain.

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Is it only the door frames which are damaged?

 

The panel will almost certainly be foil. Formica would be too heavy and expensive for doors.

 

Is there a slight crack between where the door frame meets the panel? If so that would suggest a separate panel and frame. It may be more obvious on the inside. Or is the inside face just a flush panel (flat right across the door including the frame with no obvious joints.

 

However it is possible for the whole door to be moulded from a light MDF type material and then wrapped with a photographic foil which resembles wood. This would in effect look like a solid wood door frame with an inset panel.

 

Can you see any joints on the top and bottom edges of the door frame?

 

To Test.

If you remove the door and sand the BOTTOM edge, you will see whether it is solid wood or not. The lower rail of the door will have the wood grain running along its length and the vertical piece (style) will show end grain.

 

Working on the bottom edge as a test area will mean that when the door is replaced the test area will not show.

 

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JohnP,

 

If the surface is photographed I assume this will wear away by normal handling over time, and cannot be improved.

 

I assume here that the doors are the problem not the base bodywork, therefore I would see the only real solution as new doors (as one would in a kitchen at home)

 

Bill

 

Bill

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Hi Josie, Holdsworths are built of good solid stuff, I had a Holdsworth Ranger for years and am still a member of the Holdsworth Owners Club. Before you start any hard work why not try using REGENCY GOLD, it will clean, polish, feed the wood and revitalize your furniture. Just do what it says on the bottle, not hard work. It has been around since 1895 and still going strong. I've been using it for many years in the house as well as the 'van. Mail order from:- Cetral Promotions, Unit 5, Minafon Yard, Betws Yn Rhos, Abergele, LL22 8AW. tel:-01492680440. For many years they had a stall at M.C. & Boat Shows etc.
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Libby

 

You would have to rub the surface very hard over a long period to wear through. I can't remember the rub test figures.

 

The foil which carries the grain effect is however paper thin. It is glued to the base material.

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If you decide to rub down the outer frames make sure you mask off the inner panels, catafoil once damaged is usauly unrepairible.

p.s. you can repair catafoil but it's usualy a pain in the butt and often essier by far to replace.

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