Fridge problems

[josie gibblebucket]

My fridge seems to have suddenly stopped working on 12v. It was always very efficient, getting really cold, really quickly. It still works fine on 240v and gas. We checked what we think was the correct fuse, and that seems to be ok. Does it mean the element has had it, and are there 2 elements ie one 12v and one 240v? What chance of getting a replacement element for a 15 year old fridge if this is the problem?

[John J Thompson]

josie gibblebucket - 2010-08-07 11:30 AM

 

My fridge seems to have suddenly stopped working on 12v. It was always very efficient, getting really cold, really quickly. It still works fine on 240v and gas. We checked what we think was the correct fuse, and that seems to be ok. Does it mean the element has had it, and are there 2 elements ie one 12v and one 240v? What chance of getting a replacement element for a 15 year old fridge if this is the problem?

 

What make and model of fridge?

 

Try typing that info into a search engine and you may get a result.

 

I did this for mine and found a diagram and parts including prices listed.

 

John

[josie gibblebucket]

Its an Electrolux RM4217

 

Thanks, I'll try what you suggest! Need to know exactly whats got to be replaced though before buying anything.

[Keithl]

Josie,

 

When you checked the fuse did you just check that it hadn't blown or that it actually had power when the engine was running?

If there is power at the fuse then you can check whether the 12 V element has blown with a DVM before replacing it.

If there is no power at the fuse then it could possibly be a relay that has failed, there is usually a second relay alongside the main split charge relay that controls the feed to the fridge.

I think you need to do a bit more checking what the fault is before you go buying parts.

 

Keith.

[josie gibblebucket]

Hi, just checked that the fuse hadn't blown. The light on the 12v switch on the fridge still comes on, so the power must be getting as far as that. Unfortunately I don't have a voltmeter (I think thats what you meant?) and probably wouldn't understand how to use it anyway!!! Do hope it can be fixed as we are off on our hols next weekend and could do with it working properly. Where would this relay be, and can I tell by looking if its blown or not?

 

I'll wait til my neighbour comes home and ask him if he has a voltmeter and get him to check the power to the fuse, then see what he says, thanks

[Keithl]

If you haven't got a Voltmeter (a DVM is simply a digital version) then get a light bulb and 2 pieces of wire.

Connect one end to the fridge fuse terminal and the other to a ground (chassis) connection. Remember that the engine must be running for the fridge to operate.

It might be worth checking you have a good ground connection by touching a known live connection first, such as cigar lighter, to confirm your test lamp works.

You can also check for faulty ground connections by using a known live and then touching the second wire on the suspect ground terminal.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Keith.

[Brian Kirby]

To answer one question, yes there are two elements, and each can be replaced independently.  I assume you are testing this with the engine running?  To know if the 12V fridge element is working, you'd need to run the engine for quite a while. 

Start by disconnecting the mains.  You say the 12V indicator lights, so turn this on with the engine off.  It should not light.  Now start the engine and see if it comes on.  If it does the control relay is working and you have 12V to the fridge.

Next test if the element is getting power.  The easy test for this this to remove the the two grilles and with the fridge off (and mains disconnected) on all energy sources, feel up the right hand vertical tube at the rear of the fridge, above where the gas jet is.  You probably won't be able to see much, but what you are feeling for is shaped a bit like a hockey stick and is clamped to that tube.  Both 12V and 230V elements are similar shape and size.  Then start the engine, put the fridge onto 12V, feel back for the two elements, and see if either starts to get hot.  Don't leave the engine running for long before you get your hand back in, the elements heat quire quickly and they get very hot!  They just take longer to start the cooling process in the fridge.  If neither heats the element is either not getting power from the switch, or has failed.  You'll need to draw the fridge forward from its housing to get at the back of the switch and just trace the wiring back to the element to see if anything has become disconnected, and at this point, with everything visible, you can check the output from the switch to be sure power is getting through.  If it is, the element is probably duff, if it is not, the switch is duff.  12V elements seem to be in short supply, so you may need to get a Dometic engineer to source, and fit, the new one.  Good luck.

[josie gibblebucket]

Thanks everybody for your help. I thought Brians suggestion sounded the easiest for me to attempt, but at some point in my poor old vans life, some bright spark had stuck the fridge vents on with something gooey, which I was unable to shift, so the vents had to stay where they were! It went in for a habitation service today, so I got them to look at it for me. Turns out it was just a loose wire/bad connection. This happened with the 240v supply a couple of years ago. Maybe its just vibration that causes these things to happen, but at least its working again. The engineer did say the fridge was quite loose fitting so he put some longer screws in. :-S