Winter drain down, again

[nuevoboy]

In view of the forescast minus 5 degrees C tonight,

I have drained down my fresh water and waste water tanks, and also drained the water heater as recommended. I've read somewhere that the water pump should be drained too, but couldn't work out how to do that.

I've already added a query about the toilet cassette on another post, but I've just realised the the flush tank (containing Thetford pink) has not been drained. Do I need to do that too or should that be OK given that the tank is basically within the van and has chemical in it?

Thanks in anticipation.

[Brian Kirby]

It would be wise to drain the flush tank as well.  That pink stuff isn't anti-freeze!

What to do next depends on whether your pump is a submersible type.  If it is, briefly turn on one cold tap, quickly isolate the pump supply with the tap open, and then, assuming the taps are mixers, open them all at the mid point and leave them open.  If the pump is not submersible, briefly open each tap (at the mid point if mixers) and then isolate the pump and leave all taps fully open (at the mid point).  This will help to ensure only minimal water is left in the pump, the water lines, and the tap heads.

Then, if anything does freeze, there should be room for expansion so that no damage results.  When you next drive the van around, make sure all taps are left open and that all the heater/tank drain cocks are left open.  That should ensure any residual water finally drains out.

The greatest danger of damage will be to water lines left full, especially if routed under the floor (but almost inevitably they will be routed along the floor), as the volume of water they contain is small, and so will freeze more quickly.

Don't forget to drain out your grey waste as well.  A block of ice can take ages to thaw, and may cause some damage, for example to the level detector, if it starts rattling around in the tank while you drive.

[nuevoboy]

Brian, thanks for that.

I'll make sure I empty the flush tank and I've already emptied the waste water tank.

However, I'm sorry but I don't understand what you mean when you say "isolate the (water) pump" above.

Do you mean, open the taps and then switch the pump only on, to rid the system of the final amount of water?

I don't think my pump is submersible, (it sits alongside the water heater under the side settee).

Sorry, if I should know better, but it's been a steep learning curve this last fortnight!

 

[Brian Kirby]

Usually, there is a switch of some sort that isolates, or switches off, the water pump, so that it cannot be accidentally operated when there is no water in the system.  This is mainly because water pumps do not like running dry, and would be damaged if run in this state for any length of time. 

A submersible pump will live inside the fresh water tank, usually suspended at the end of a short flexible hose.  Clearly, yours isn't of that type. 

So, all you need to do is open one of the taps at the mid point, with the pump turned off, and then briefly turn it on and then off again, close the tap, and repeat for each tap in turn, including the shower and then, with the pump off, open all the taps including the shower, at the mid point between hot and cold, so that both supplies are left open to air.  That should blow any water residue from the pump, and also leave the tap heads pretty well water free.  Taking the van for a run in that state, in the not too distant future, should finish the job and leave it as thoroughly drained as is possible.

If you keep it at home, it would be worth considering placing a low wattage electric greenhouse heater, oil filled or otherwise, on a low setting, in the van just to keep a little warmth inside and help keep it dry.  Some prefer to use small de-humidifiers instead.  Which you use is not significant, but a dehumidifier will have to have its condensate drained periodically, whereas an electric heater generates no condensate.  The idea is to reduce the amount of atmospheric moisture absorbed by fabrics, foam cushions, and wood based elements, to reduce the risk of mildew and excessive movement in the wooden bits.

[nuevoboy]

Brian,

After that thorough explanation, I definitely have it now.

The 'van is parked at home but we hope to use it a few more times before winter sets in. Indeed, we hope to visit the Forest of Dean early December and may even drive up to Cheshire in it over Christmas.

Once winter does set in, I intend to drive it at least fortnightly, if only down to our local beach (2 miles away) to keep everything moving freely.

Friends of ours keep a dehumidifier in their caravan over the winter period, as well as removing the seat backs, cushions etc.

Apart from last winter's exceptionally cold snap, we usually have very mild winters here on the West Wales coast, but obviously lots of moisture. ;-)

I'll keep in mind your recommendations on keeping the 'van warm and dry.

In fact, given the recent price-hike in our household LPG, it may be cheaper to live in the 'van on the drive. *-)

Thanks once again.

[Brian Kirby]

I assume the Nuevo has an aluminium sheeted body?  If so, and you live within 2 miles of the west Wales coast, be careful of salt spray.  I think at 2 miles you are still within what would be called a marine environment, in that salt spray will carry that far, and farther, on stormy days.  Aluminium doesn't like salt and unless adequately protected will corrode in its presence, mainly due to electrolytic action.  Be prepared to keep it free of spray.  Same applies after trips to the beach.

Unlikely, but for peace of mind I'd also suggest you check there is no copper from which water can drip onto the van, for example old telephone wires.  Run-off from copper, especially if salt laden, will make holes in aluminium at a surprising rate!

[Mountain_Biker]

Hi

 

Can I also suggest you check if you have a water filter fitted, you open this up to drain it down, they let water UP, but don't do a good job of draining down...

 

From personal experience...

 

John

[Derek Uzzell]

Brian Kirby - 2010-10-24 11:22 PM

 

...I assume the Nuevo has an aluminium sheeted body?  I

 

Nuevos have GRP-skinned bodywork.

 

As far as draining pressure-sensitive water pumps for frost protection is concerned, normally the only genuinely satisfactory way of doing this is to detach the water hoses from the pump's inlet and outlet, remove any filter, and then run the pump for a while until it's evident there's no water left in it. Pressure-sensitive pumps will tolerate being run empty, so there's no danger of this causing damage. If this proves too difficult because the pump is particularly inaccessible, then Brian's advice to blow as much water out of the pump as possible should be followed.

 

Getting at my Hobby's pump to detach its water-hoses is not that easy, so (having blown out as much water from it as I can) I swaddle it up with towels and hope it will survive. Last winter it was clear that it had frozen up, but it was still OK after it had thawed out.

[rolandrat]

One way of keeping Jack Frost at bay is to surround your pump with a couple of hot water bottles if you think the temperature is going to be low enough to cause a freeze up.

[nuevoboy]

Blimey, nueovogirl is going to get jealous as I've not even allowed her a hot water bottle these last couple of winters.

If I allow the 'van to have a warm night then perhaps she'll be volunteering to sleep there instead. (lol)