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fridge not working on 12v


crocket

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First two things to check out are any in-line fuse, and then the split-charge relay.

 

However, because of the nature of the wiring in some ASs there may also be another couple of items to check.

 

In the past, (and around that vintage) as I know to my cost, AS have wired the fridge directly across the leisure battery, with an alternator sense signal simply switching the 12v fridge feed on and off elsewhere (presumably a separate relay), rather than the more conventional method by a split-charge relay feed direct from the the alternator.

 

(After blowing the in-line fuse in the "on-road" charging circuit to the leisure battery, I ran the leisure battery flat on a 4-hour journey, as the fridge continued to take current from the battery because the switching was still sensing an alternator output, but the leisure battery wasn't being charged through the split-charge circuit)

 

So,

 

i) I would check that your leisure battery is charging with the engine running (though I suspect you would have noticed if it was absolutely flat!)

 

If not there is probably a problem with the split-charge relay or the fuse in the charging circuit to the leisure battery.

 

ii) Check in-line fuse(s) in the fridge circuit, which may be fed via a split-charge direct from the alternator or wired across the leisure battery.

 

iii) If the fridge is wired by split-charge direct to alternator, check the split charge relay - if it is wired via the battery, check for a separate alternator sensing/switching relay and test that.

 

If all circuit issues are eleiminated, then it's your fridge, but your post seems to imply it's a circuit problem.

 

HTH

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Derek Uzzell - 2010-11-27 6:06 PM

 

There are useful 'standard' circuit diagrams on

 

http://www.motts.org/SPLIT%20CHARGING%20SYSTEM.htm

 

 

Yes, that's the wiring I termed 'conventional' in my post.

 

In the early '90s Autosleepers used to use a system like that headed "Original Fitment" in the following:

 

http://www.jktowers.fsnet.co.uk/motorhome/images_technical/split_charge_wiring.jpg

 

which is subtly different, may well mean the fridge relay is located differently, and causes the potential issues I highlighted.

 

(and I only found by experience :-S ).

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Swopped both relays today but fuse blows when 12v switch is turned on.Looks like 12v "burner?" shorting it out.Dont think I can get new one as out of production (RM4217). so try to manage on gas and turn off when travelling.Thanks for info Chris

 

 

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crocket - 2010-11-29 5:15 PM

 

Swopped both relays today but fuse blows when 12v switch is turned on.Looks like 12v "burner?" shorting it out.Dont think I can get new one as out of production (RM4217). so try to manage on gas and turn off when travelling.Thanks for info Chris

 

 

 

Unlucky!

 

You seem to know what you're doing, so I assume you've tried to check the wiring for a short on the upside of whatever switch you're using, not just assumed it's the 12v element. (A meter with the ability to continuity check is quite useful in these circumstances).

 

Since there WAS a 4217, which is now obsolete, I suspect you may have got your number correct.

 

Whilst it may be obsolete, some of the elements were intrechangeable. It might be worth chasing through:

 

http://caravanspares.org/electrolux-caravan-fridge/

 

who have a number of 12v elements in stock, and say they will advise on availability for any model.

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Hi crocket

 

I had a similar problem with my 2003 AutoSleeper Nuevo.

I found a short in the cabling directly underneath the drivers seat stays.

It had been trapped between the stays and the floor pan.

The previous owner only used the fridge on a mains hook up so the 12v side was never used.

If your leisure battery is beneath the drivers seat then the cabling will be in a vulnerable area there too.

Hope it helps

Cheers

Robert

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