starvin marvin Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 The sump in question is on a Fiat 2.8 tdi, and is showing some surface corrosion. What appears to be a "coating" is flaking off exposing surface rust. The question I'm asking is, what heat resistant material? can I use to protect the metal from further corrosion once I've scraped/wirebrushed the sump. Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroserv Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Hello, The mystery coating that you see is ...... paint. Not very good is it? Most if not all vehicles have little more than black paint on the sump, and some corrode more quickly than others. A new sump will set you back about £140 even from the aftermarket sellers so if you think you have caught it in time, it would be worth doing the following; Rub it all down and get rid of as much paint as you can. Treat any surface rust with a proprietary product that states clearly that it is compatible with cellulose primers and paints. Apply a generous coat of ACID ETCH PRIMER. You might be able to get this from motor factors, otherwise it's a trip to the trade auto paint and panel shop. It's important to make sure that everything you spray on, stays on and acid-etch is the way to go but wear a mask or use in a well ventillated area; it's not nice. Apply gloss black paint or Schutz underseal spray for even better protection. If you use Schutz re-fit the sump before it is completely dry (just a little soft) so that the screws can displace it a bit when you tighten them up. Don't forget to treat the van to a new sump gasket, or use flexible sealer appropriate for the job. (Not silicone). Had to buy a new sump for a customer's Citroen Berlingo the other week; that one was not even primed! Came in bare metal and i had to paint it at our cost because I had quoted a fixed price. That will teach me. Have fun. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starvin marvin Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 Thanks for the reply. Whilst it may be the best way to approach this problem I've certainly have no wish to remove the sump, if it comes to this I'll be paying someone else to do it. What I was hoping to see was after removing all the loose paint and surface rust was that a liquid material other than paint, that would withstand the heat could be brush applied. I fully accept that this would not be the ideal solution and it may need redoing as the loose effect spreads, but I could live with that. Perhaps this simply is not possible or just a waste of time and effort. Once again many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebishbus Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Hi. I would remove the loose stuff with a wire brush, then give it a good coat of Waxoyl. Brian B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 The easy way would be just to clean off as much as you could and paint it with a rust converting primer. Then a second coat of the primer, when it is completey dry and hardened slap on some hammerite (smooth black). Materials easily available from most car shops and easy done with a wire brush and some paint brushes, no spray everywhere and you can get a nice thick coat of paint. If you want to make it even easier, just slap on some hammerite paint after removing any loose paint or rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest peter Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 euroserv - 2011-03-14 6:12 PM Hello, The mystery coating that you see is ...... paint. Not very good is it? Most if not all vehicles have little more than black paint on the sump, and some corrode more quickly than others. A new sump will set you back about £140 even from the aftermarket sellers so if you think you have caught it in time, it would be worth doing the following; Rub it all down and get rid of as much paint as you can. Treat any surface rust with a proprietary product that states clearly that it is compatible with cellulose primers and paints. Apply a generous coat of ACID ETCH PRIMER. You might be able to get this from motor factors, otherwise it's a trip to the trade auto paint and panel shop. It's important to make sure that everything you spray on, stays on and acid-etch is the way to go but wear a mask or use in a well ventillated area; it's not nice. Apply gloss black paint or Schutz underseal spray for even better protection. If you use Schutz re-fit the sump before it is completely dry (just a little soft) so that the screws can displace it a bit when you tighten them up. Don't forget to treat the van to a new sump gasket, or use flexible sealer appropriate for the job. (Not silicone). Had to buy a new sump for a customer's Citroen Berlingo the other week; that one was not even primed! Came in bare metal and i had to paint it at our cost because I had quoted a fixed price. That will teach me. Have fun. NickOr, for a much quicker and long lasting job, plaster it in high temp' grease and don't wipe it when you do an oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 If you want a cheap and quick go, try Halfords (or a Motor Factor) for High Temperature or Very High Temperature enamel. The result you get will depend on how well you can clean the sump down, and how well the paint adheres to bare metal, but it is pretty cheap, and comes in both tin and spray forms. I've considered it in the past, but never tried it. I've seen people say it's worked well, and also the opposite, but at not much more than £5 a go, it's possibly worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pelmetman Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Get a Transit :D They have a special system of built in oil leaks that splatter the bottom of the van *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Had the problem with ours after three years. Cured since, ten years now, simply using a can of Hammerite smooth black. Only need to remove loose paint or rust then spray with the Hammerite over the top of whats left (don't remove any rust that is hard i.e. don't rub back to clean metal) and the paint soaks into and seals all rust to a near perfect smooth finish. Bas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroserv Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Fair enough, I gave the correct and thorough method for refurbishing it but if you want it to stay in place then a quick brush off and hammerite sounds just dandy. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starvin marvin Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Thank you all for your comments and advice. Its a job for next week, must get the spuds planted first. Retirement, its just one thing after another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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