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Burstner water problem


philparry

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Before the winter set in I drained my water system down, emptied the tanks and left the taps open. I have just filled up with water and tested the system. When I run the tap, the pump kicks in and water comes from the tap, so far so good, but it also runs out of the drainage valve, then stops. The drain valve is closed and the automatic (winter) one is as well.
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I had a similar problem on the Aviano we used to have, the Valve would sometimes not shut properly after a winter drain down, when the M/H went in for it Habitation check I mentioned it to the service Guy, he said he found no problem with the drain valve but gave me a small horseshoe shaped red plastic insert to put under the valve flip-over lever when in use, worked every-time , dont think the valve was closing as it should. ask your dealer for one.
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philparry - 2011-03-20 2:48 PM

 

I've tried that I've been opening and closing both valves, but it still seems to happen. It's odd that the water only pours out when the pump is working, but there again I really don't understand water systems.

 

It sounds like your Burstner's water system has a 'submerged' water-pump (ie. the pump is in the fresh-water tank itself) that is switched on and off via micro-switches fitted to your motorhome's water-taps.

 

With this sort of arrangement, the pressure in the water pipework remains relatively low. When a tap is opened the pump is switched on and begins to pump water towards the tap. The pressure in the pipework between the pump and tap rises and (so it would seem) one of your drain valves (although closed) can no longer cope with the increased pressure. When you turn off the tap the water-pump immediately stops pumping and the pressure in the water pipework (never high to begin with) rapidly falls (by leaking through the defective drain-valve for a few moments) to a level that the valve is able to handle.

 

It should be relatively simple to identify whether the leak is coming from the 'automatic' or manual drain-valve and, if it's from the latter, you could try Corky's suggestion which would seem to increase the upwards pull of the valve's over-centre lever. Can't say I've heard of this ploy before, though I use a similarly-shaped homemade gizmo (in aluminium) to keep the 'automatic' valve shut.

 

If the leak persists, then you may need a new drain-valve as I'm not sure if they are designed to be repaired. Cost of a manual drain-valve seems to be around £30 and there are three variants according to the type of water hose (flexible with hose-clips, or semi-rigid with "John Guest" push-fit connectors) and its diameter.

 

For examples see:

 

http://automech-uk.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=48&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=55

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