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best way to clean water tank for new season


bmfrost

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Well you appear a bid lost for words. I buy baby bottle cleaner, approximately 1 lt. Add to empty tank and fill up. Leave overnight and then drain into waste tank where I leave overnight before draining hence cleaning both tanks. If necessary will run another tank full of clean water.
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Guest pelmetman
I like to clean my tank once every 10 years whether it needs it or not :D ............which usualy means a wet cloth to wipe round the inside of the tank, as for Milton, found some the other day under a draw which my FIL must of had for years but never used :D ....................maybe thats how it works.........you just need some in the camper...........to protect it......a bit like garlic keeps away vampires (lol) (lol)
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Hi Barbara & welcome to the forum.

 

As Mel B says, don't use Milton which contains Chlorine, as that will attack any Stainless Steel, especially your Water Heater.

 

Home Brew Sterilising Fluids are generally Chlorine Free, but check before buying.

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Guest Tracker

We just empty and refill with good old chlorinated British tap water a couple of times.

 

If it keeps the underground water network and everyone's domestic pipework safe to drink via it must be good enough for our van tanks?

 

I'll not be conned by the merchants of doom or slippery sales blurb for fancy cleaners and after 36 years of doing nothing more I've never had a problem with van tank water - except from some dodgy pipework on a site many years ago!

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Really got concerned when I read about the effects of chlorine however did a quick search.

 

"When using chlorine as a sterilizer or sanitiser in contact with 316 type stainless steel items, a maximum of 15-20 ppm (mg/lt) 'free' chlorine is suggested, for maximum times of 24 hours, followed by a thorough chlorine free water flush."

 

Not quite clear as to the chlorine concentration in the fluid I use but a bit relieved at the above.

 

I think I will be more concerned about being gassed than cleaning my tank with baby bottle fluid.

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sshortcircuit - 2011-05-21 10:12 PM

 

Really got concerned when I read about the effects of chlorine however did a quick search.

 

"When using chlorine as a sterilizer or sanitiser in contact with 316 type stainless steel items, a maximum of 15-20 ppm (mg/lt) 'free' chlorine is suggested, for maximum times of 24 hours, followed by a thorough chlorine free water flush."

 

Not quite clear as to the chlorine concentration in the fluid I use but a bit relieved at the above.

 

I think I will be more concerned about being gassed than cleaning my tank with baby bottle fluid.

 

Hi Hamish - BUT also from the SAME source:-

Cleaning of stainless steel equipment

 

The cleaning methods listed are suitable for stainless steel equipment.

Water and Steam

Mechanical Scrubbing

Scouring Powder and Detergents

Alkaline Solutions

Organic Solvents

Nitric Acid

 

Disinfection of stainless steel equipment

Chemical disinfectants are often more corrosive than cleaning agents and care must be exercised in their use.

Hypochlorites

Hypochlorites, chloramine and other disinfectants can liberate free chlorine, which can cause pitting.

Sodium hypochlorite or potassium hypochlorites are often used in commercial sterilising agents. If these substances are used with stainless steel, the duration of the treatment should be kept to minimum and followed by thorough rinsing with water.

At higher temperatures, chloride-containing sterilising agents should not be used with stainless steel.

 

MILTON SOLUTIONS (hypochlorite & chloride) CAN BE VERY AGGRESIVE TO STAINLESS STEELS

 

Tetravalent ammonium salts are much less corrosive than hypochlorites, even when halogens are present in their formulation.

 

Iodine compounds may be used for the disinfection of stainless steel.

 

Nitric acid -Even at low concentrations, nitric acid has a strong bactericidal action and can be a low cost disinfectant for stainless steel equipment, especially in dairies and pasteurising equipment.

 

 

 

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Really now getting concerned with all this technical detail.

 

I wash my tank out once a year with a baby bottle cleaner with a very diluted level of chlorine which stays in for about 10 hours. Is this really going to rust my boiler as the pipes, taps etc are all plastic with a chrome finish?

 

Now going to bed and I am worried. If I believe that this insignificant amount of chlorine will damage my boiler beyond repair, then I will be gassed tonight, so if you do not have any further posts from me then you will realise that my computer has been stolen when I was unconscious. .

 

 

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Hi Hamish,

Not wanting to worry you, just make you aware.

The Chlorines attack the Stainless Steel & will cause pitting.(AFAIK it should not affect the plastics.)

 

Having seen the affect Chlorine has, I would not risk any damage to the Water Heater. (Older Trauma literature advised against use of Milton for this reason.)

 

As an extreme example, in a previous life, there were notices posted that the Welders fabricating Food Industry Equipment,had to ensure even TAP Water did not come into contact with the Stainless Steel.

 

There are numerous cleaners / sterilisers available & as the article says Nitric Acid ( Lemon Juice) is as good as any, so not more expensive than Milton.

Far cheaper than risking any possible damage to an expensive Water Boiler.

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Fortunately I have not been gassed and still have laptop.

 

With all your knowledge do you really think I am going to do irreparable damage to my boiler with such a mild treatment on such an infrequent basis, I think not.

 

Its getting things in perspective which is why I have alluded to the possibility of being gassed.

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Hamish, this is from the Truma Combi manual. Make of it what you will, but I don't think anyone on here is trying to do other than advise you of a risk.

 

"Maintenance

 

The water container used is made of stainless steel, which is foodstuff-compatible.

Use wine vinegar for descaling the water heater, this being introduced into the appliance via the water supply.

Allow the product to react and then thoroughly flush out the appliance with plenty of fresh water. To sterilise the water we recommend "Certisil Argento“. Other products, particularly those containing chlorine are unsuitable."

 

Certisil Argento was until recently available in UK from Miriad Products, but they have now ceased handling it due to short shelf life and slow turnover. However, Elsan produce two, more reasonably priced, products, both stated to be chlorine free. Fresh Water Tank Clean is for initial sterilising, and Elsil is a silver iode based purification agent claimed (from memory) to keep drinking water sterile for up to six months.

 

It is perhaps worth remembering that a replacement Truma Combi boiler will cost in excess of £1,000 which, compared to the price of products designed to treat water without damaging stainless steel system components, seems a fairly powerful argument to me.

 

In one respect I would quarrel with what Rich (Tracker) says. He uses his van almost exclusively off camp sites, which implies a fairly high turnover of fresh water, so that under most circumstances his tank is being re-dosed with fresh, chlorinated (albeit at very low concentrations) water.

 

The water in mains is in continual movement, and freshly chlorinated water is endlessly (we hope, given a bit of rain! :-)) being added. On the other hand, water in many motorhome tanks is not being endlessly added to, so that, for example, with our pattern of use, involving sites, 100 litres of water will last us 3/4 weeks before re-filling.

 

Chlorine is a gas and, over time, the chlorine in drinking water evaporates, which is why, if your tap water smells and tastes of chlorine, a jug placed overnight in the fridge will emerge neither smelling, not tasting, of chlorine. Water in pipes is not open to air, so the chlorine remains trapped. Fresh water tanks are open to air so, over time, the chlorine will be lost and the water become prone to contamination. For that reason, I would say whether the fresh water tank, and the stored water in it, needs further treatment depends on one's rate of consumption. If the tank is replenished every 3/4 days maybe not, but if only replenished weekly, or less frequently, I would say treatment is probably wise.

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Never found the need to clean the tank, always drain down after every trip & re-fill with fresh water when leaving for the next trip.

I de-scale the hot water system occasionally using 2 - 3 litres of white wine vinegar (25p/lt in France).

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I'm with tracker on this one. Just empty and refill with united utilities finest. If tank has been used frequently and drained down over periods of lay up then I cant see it coming to any harm.
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One tip I was told was to use concentrated Orange Squash or cordial. Put that in pump through system drive around for a slosh and then drain out. Then flush through with water.

 

I must admit to being careful of the water tank especially with a second hand van, you do not know how it was looked after previously.

 

I understand there is a good water filtration system from Wicks at quite a reasonable price £35ish.

 

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Have to agree with Brian regarding chlorine in water. Used to keep tropical fish and would always leave water for 24/48 prior to use so that it had time to disperse, fish don't like it.

 

For years have used Campden tablets used in home brewing. 5 tablets per 100ltrs crushed in hot water ,put in tank then filled with water and pumped through, leave for few hours, rinse and no after taste.

 

Not costly either last bought on line 50 tablets £2.50, if its good enough for wine and beer then who am I to argue.

 

Dave

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Caroline - 2011-05-23 11:43 AM

 

One tip I was told was to use concentrated Orange Squash or cordial. Put that in pump through system drive around for a slosh and then drain out. Then flush through with water.

 

 

I think you will find that recommendation is for the waste tank to stop smells.

I would not do that in the fresh water system the sugar in the squash will gum up the pump a treat.

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