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Electrics Overheated


Geoff Beasley

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Hi, We have a Burstner Delfin Performance 625 with a 3 ltr Renault Master and Alko Chassis. It is fitted with Burstners "E" Control for the electrics, a small (3inch) screen which you can scroll through to control each of the electric systems, water pump, lights etc. When travelling we have to switch this off as each time go round a corner it bleeps at us to say the fresh water is empty! My problem is, that for some time now, when we stop and turn the electrics on we get a "STOP" "Electronics Overheated" This remains on for between 30 seconds and 2 minutes during which time no electrics will work, once it goes off all is back to normal. I did wonder if it was due to lack of ventilation around the "E" box which is screwed up under the floor in one of the lockers, however lowering it and packing it off to increase the room around it had no effect. I have now found out that if we turn the 12 volt switch on the Dometic AES fridge off when travelling the problem doesn't occur so it would appear that there is a problem either on the fridge or wiring to it. Could anybody suggest any checks etc. I could do to identify just where the problem is please?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Geoff.

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There is a switch on the Ebox for selecting if the cooling fan is enables on or off. Worth checking if it is off. Also read the manual so you fully understand the system. If you od not have a manual you can get a copy on the Reich website.
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  • 5 years later...

Only the bigger Reich e-box 2 has a fan which can be de-activated, but it is the e-box 1 that is the unit most susceptible to overheating.

If this is an e-box 1, then it is a VERY compact unit which handles all charging and operation of the 12v.

All Alternator power for both charging the habitation batteries, plus powering the Fridge, goes through the box.

Because of it's compact size and the fact the charger is just 16amps it is only designed to support a single battery and this should be such that it puts the lightest load possible on the box. I.e. a young and efficient battery of about 100Ah.

 

If the battery bank is drawing a lot of power from the Alternator because it is tired, too big or both then this potential load of 30amps + 15 amps for the Fridge/Freezer may cause the unit to run hot.

 

It is important that you manage the load on the e-box, even when it is 'healthy' or it's life will be short.

If you know the batteries are low after a night taking out a lot of power then the first few hours of the journey the next day might be better with the Fridge on Gas? Try not to drop the habitation battery voltage below about 12.4v at any time.

 

Once the batteries are back up to charge and the display is showing low current charge, then you can switch onto 12v Alternator.

 

This unit benefits more than most from a really efficient battery.

 

Just because the unit runs cooler when the Fridge is on Gas, doesn't mean there is an issue with the Fridge. It is usually because you have removed a big load from the e-box.

Never yet had a Fridge problem when that was suggested, like in this case, as the issue. Almost always starts with an overload from poor batteries.

 

It was a flawed design which Reich became aware of etc, etc. More here : http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/reich-e-box.php

 

 

 

 

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I have the Delfin Performance T821 and have no problem with the Reich E Box charger. This is because the original Reich charger could not cope when the former owner added a second Leisure battery and it failed. Allan at A & N supplied the uprated charger to him and it has been fine ever since (I have a second Leisure battery fitted) but am frugal with 12 volt usage and have a Solar panel to take some of the strain off the charging system. I would stick to one Leisure battery if I were you and possibly do the same as me and fit a Solar panel. If we are moving on, it is usually Lunchtime or later and the panel has put a lot into the batteries.

 

As for the fresh water Sensor, you just have to live with the warning beeps. The fresh water tank (and the waste tank) is long and low (not cube shaped like other vans) and this causes the problem, especially as the sensor is fitted at one end of the tank. The sensor is not accurate unless you are parked level also. Rightly or wrongly, I leave the E Control box switched on all the time, even when not using the van. I have various 12 volt electrical equipment that needs to have power while travelling (Fan for heating while on the move, Alde Heat exchanger Pump etc). I suppose I should really switch it off when not in use though. :D

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