bromleyxphil Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I pulled down the blind on the rear offside window of my camper to find the flyscreen coated in water. I have removed the screen / blind unit to show the window behind. Thewall is bone-dry and the leak is definitely coming from the join between the window and the outer skin of the van. The window unit seems to be stuck to the van although there is some movement at the top. I intend resealing the unit myself, but need to know was it sealed at the factory or does the factory just rely on the rubber seal that appears very thin on the back of the window unit.l This will tell me if anybody has been trying to do this before. I also need to know what mastic to use as I would assume it would be a non-setting type rather than a glue-type to allow for expansion contraction. Thanks. Phil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flicka Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Hi Phil It would be worthwhile contacting Autotrail directly for answers. http://www.auto-trail.co.uk/index.php/contacts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Anne Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hi, Flicka is right, if your MH is the one shown in the photo then this will be a warranty item, you may invalidate it if you try and fix it yourself. I have found the Auto Trail aftercare team to be very helpful with issues such as this, although it may mean a visit to the factory at Grimsby. Good luck with the fix - which ever way you choose. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crinklystarfish Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Carafax Caraseal IDL99 with a bead of about 7-8mm to the inside edge of the rubber seal will do it. Just make sure that when you screw the inner frame back on that all the screws are seated correctly and tightened to an equal torque, and don't over tighten them. 20 minute job if everything is in good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flicka Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 flicka - 2011-07-07 10:26 PM Hi Phil It would be worthwhile contacting Autotrail directly for answers. http://www.auto-trail.co.uk/index.php/contacts Phil Sorry I missed that your Autotrail is a 2009 model, It is still under Warranty & it should your Dealer who is your first point of contact. Your Dealer is responsible for Warrany matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromleyxphil Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 Thanks guys, I have all but given up on the dealer it takes too long to book in and they don't take as much care with the van or repairs as I do. Autotrail are not much better I rang yesterday for advice to be told ask in B+Q about the product to use! I will get some IDL and sort it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laimeduck Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 An apparently low tech but very effective cure is "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" I know it sounds odd, but it is actually a very clever product. I can vouch for it - it really does work! http://www.captaintolley.com/ ( The movie demo is hilarious he really lives the Captain Tolley image :-D ) It cured the leaking windscreen on my 1986 Citroen 2CV and left no marks on the red paintwork. Well worth a bottle in the van when touring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesFrance Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Interesting. I have tried the creeping crack sealer on several boat windows and other small leaks and found it to be completely useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Just this. I believe your van has a timber framework between its skins. The water entered on the outside, but appeared on the blind, which is inside. The presumed source of the leak is the window, but unless you have eliminated all other possible sources, it could just be entering somewhere higher up above the window, not necessarily directly above the window. So, do check very carefully that you understand exactly where that water is getting in, to be sure that timber frame does not continue getting damp. If the answer is the window, I suggest the only certain remedy is to completely remove it, clean off all the old sealant (assuming it wasn't assembled in error without sealant! :-)), re-bed the fixed part on new sealant, and re-assemble. Personally, I would be inclined to go for one of the reasonably readily available Sika products (modified polymer, not silicone) in preference to anything else. I would go for an adhesive sealant (these are crudely a synthetic rubber, and extremely tough and flexible when cured), and I would shim the frame slightly clear of the sidewall in initial fitting, to ensure at least 1mm of sealant is retained behind the frame by initially only lightly tightening the screws onto the shims. If you carefully apply masking tape, or similar, to the sidewall around the frame position, you can strip this after the above initial sealing of the frame to cleanly remove surplus sealant. After the sealant has cured, lightly loosen screws, slip out shims, and tighten screws to compress, but not over-compress, the sealant. Applying beads externally, or applying other products, is unlikely to succeed for the longer term, even if it works short term and, if you get the wrong product, may react with the remaining sealant in undesirable ways. These are chemically complex and sophisticated products, and are best used in locations where contact with other potential reagents is minimal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevandali Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Sorry to jump on the sealant bandwagon (hope you get the window sorted Phil) I am going to reseal my large roof window/skyligh and was wondering if Carafax Caraseal IDL99was the right thing to use. If not, what do you canny motorhoming types suggest? Cheers Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 If a Heki roof light it might not be the sealant! and you COULD be removing window when there is no point? there is a well known problem with Heki's that the washers in screw fixings fail, allowing water to drip into camper........all it needs is new washers fitted. Our Euramobil dealer fixed ours very quickly, sorry i was drinking coffee and did not observe the process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wills Wagon Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 We had leaks from two windows in our 08 Autotrail the primary cause was that the window sagged and were not supported adequately underneath. Before sealing you need to pack the window from underneath with plastic strips as used for normal double glazing. Best wishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pelmetman Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 laimeduck - 2011-07-09 7:24 AM An apparently low tech but very effective cure is "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" I know it sounds odd, but it is actually a very clever product. I can vouch for it - it really does work! http://www.captaintolley.com/ ( The movie demo is hilarious he really lives the Captain Tolley image :-D ) It cured the leaking windscreen on my 1986 Citroen 2CV and left no marks on the red paintwork. Well worth a bottle in the van when touring. I find it useful on my perspex luton windows that have started to crack with age :$ .........hopefully they will all be replaced this year ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.