rupert123 Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 About ten weeks ago I posted a request for information on the Route des Grande Alpes, as not much was forthcoming, except a very useful post by Homenaway, I assume it has not been done by many. I never post details of trips but feel a few on this one may be of help to others who may be thinking about it. The route runs from Thonon les Bain on the French side of Lake Geneva to Menton on the Med. It is around 700km long and takes in some of the most beautiful and highest passes in Europe. We cheated a little and started from Cluses as we have done the first part several times in the past and wanted to visit friends in St Gervais les Bains. Stayed on the aire in St Gervais, not a great place but in the town and convenient for us. Set out for Cluses and our first climb up the Col de Colombiere at 1613m, nice easy col with no problems but great views. Down into to ski town of Grand Bornand, along the valley to next col of Aravis, 1486m. Another easy climb to the top , there is a M/H parking area here where you could stay but we had done these cols before so pressed on. Down to the Gorge d’Arly and then the long winding road up to the Col des Saises, 1650m, nice ride through an area we are really familiar with because of our skiing. There is a large aire here where we had a late lunch and I took a quick look around. Despite what it states in All the Aires I could see no sign of the listed electric or disposal points but they did not appear to be charging for staying either at this time of year. Pressed on to foot of the next col and started on our final climb of a long day to the Cormet de Roseland, 1968m, this was also the first col we had not done before. What a surprise it was, the climb is through trees with limited views until you come over a small summit and everything changes. The view opens up with a large man made lake and a very bleak but beautiful landscape. At the top of the col were some farmers with a mobile milking machine, something we have never seen before. The descent to the town of Bourge st Maurice was the first part of the trip where we had to take extra care, a very tight, winding and in places very narrow road. Arrived at Bourge and spent the next two nights at camping Le Versoyen, an ACSI site 13 euro and recommended. After catching up with washing and some shopping we pushed on through Val d’Isere, strange to see it deserted, bought some fresh bread and croissants, stopped for breakfast on the lower slopes of the Col de L’Iseran, 2770m,. What a great ride this col is, easy drive on good roads but some very serious drops with no barriers, lot of stops for taking in the view and pictures. We saw our first marmot here, nearly run it over in fact, lots of cyclists and motorbikes enjoying the ride and the good weather. After the descent we stopped at the village of Bonneval sur Arc, nice spot, then over the small col of Madeleine and down to our next stop at Lansvillard where we stayed at another ACSI site Camping Caravaneige de Val Cenis, again 13 euro although listed as 15 in ACSI book, nice new toilet block. Again we stayed two nights as we wished to divert to Mont Cenis for a days visit. This is a great place with a lake, fantastic views all around and couple of forts built by the Italians. These forts are a feature of much of the trip as it is on the French/Italian border which has changed over the years. I decided to walk up to one, Fort Ronce, although wife declined and sat in the sun. Lots of walks here and a lot of vans parked up for a bit of free camping, cannot blame them great spot. If you camp here there is a small shop and a restaurant. Next morning pushed on stopping at the Maria Theresa Redoubt, there is another very large fort over the gorge here which you can get to by crossing a scary bridge. Next up the Col du Telgraphe, 1566m then the Galibier, 2645m, this climb is fairly gentle with a sting in the tail. The Telegraphe has a fort and a parking area but we did not stop here and pushed on up the easy climb. It is near the top of the Galibier you have a decision to make, you can cut out the top bit by going through a short tunnel, or having come all this way go over the top. We, or rather I, decided over the top, the road is very narrow and it is doubtful you would be able to pass anything coming the other way except in a couple of places. It is in good condition however but has no barriers at all between you and very large drops. A large van followed me over but it is officially banned to anything over 3.5tons. Through the tunnel or over the top there is a parking place and a short walk takes you to a viewing platform, also a memorial to Henri Desgranges the first organiser of the Tour de France. We continued to the Col du Lataret, 2057m, and decided to stop here for the night, there is a parking area and had about twenty vans parked up, not sure if this is an official aire or not, but local restaurant seemed to think it was. Next day on to the Col de L’isard, 2360m, not the highest but one of our favourites. Pleasant approach through woods, then you clear the trees to what looks like a moonscape, not for nothing do they call this the Casse Desert. We spent a fair time here wandering around and going for a short walk, what a place, nothing ‘chocolate box’ about it but we loved it. Descent from here is again a winding and in places very narrow road with surface crumbling at the edges in places. We ran down and through the Guilestral gorges and here ran into trouble, they were working on the tunnel at the end of gorges and we could not get through. Decided to divert to Chateau Queyras and stay at the fairly scruffy municipal site here, only 10 euro so decent value. Next day we had to backtrack a bit, well quite a lot actually, to get to the Col de Vars, 2108m, cannot remember much of this so must have been very straight forward, stopped the night at Bonlieu site called Domaine Loisirs de L’Ubaye, another ACSI site at 13 euro, bit out of our way but OK. After this stop we diverted from the official route to take in the Col de la Bonnette, 2802m, and listed as the highest in Europe. First over the Col Resteford , lots of old forts around here, then up the gradually steeper and narrower road with again no barriers. Bit worried about the top as had heard tales of it being very narrow. At the summit the road split into two and you can go either way around the top, I decided to keep to the right, and it was really no problem except for being narrow. We stopped at the top and walked up to the viewing platform, fantastic all round view. there is no parking place so you have to wedge yourself in the side of the road which is a little wider right at the top. Drove on a short way until we found a parking spot for lunch, we saw only three other vans all the way over on this col, unusual. The descent is a long one with some tight bends, we did stop at a curious deserted village on the way down which turned out to be an old army barracks. Over Col St Martin, 1500m and Col Turini, 1604m. These cols, although small, had some of the tightest roads yet with rock overhangs thrown in, felt a very remote place. Down to Sospel and camping Domaine ste Madeleine ACSI 15euro. Haphazard site but nice pool and decent facilities, very friendly, caught up with washing. On to our last climb, Col de Castillion, 708m, and down to Menton. What a trip, great scenery all the way, loved the driving but by the end you will be all hairpind out. Driving. I would see no problems even for fairly large vans but be prepared to manoeuvre on some narrow roads almost totally without barriers and some large drops. Campsites/aires. We prefer sites, except for one we used all ACSI sites, but did look out for aires, there are very few on the route but plenty of free camping spots if you wish. Time. I would allow a couple of weeks on the route, we skipped over a few cols without stopping as we have done them before. I would not go before the end of June as the high cols are likely to be closed, we started the first col on the 7 September. Hope all that may be of some use to anyone considering this trip. If you love the mountains, as we do, it is a must. Plenty of other vans around except on the Bonnette and last two cols, in fact on the St. Martin and Turini only saw one other van, this was a Brit panel van. One incident which taught me a messy lesson. On the Col la Bonnette descent we stopped at around 2700m, my wife went to toilet, came out saying she could not open cassette lever. I had a go but could not move it, brute force got the cassette free and sat it on the ground, another bit of brute force the thing came open and exploded in my face. Wife falling around laughing me dripping with s**t. Beware, pressure builds up at altitude release pressure slowly or leave alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 What a truly great post, Henry. Sorry about the sh1t - as recompense, I hereby forgive you all your earthly transgressions. :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minstrel Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 That sounds a really marvellous trip. I've saved it into word so that we can do the trip ourselves one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cronkle Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Thank you. I have also copied your post for use next summer. We were looking to do a bit of Alpine touring and was going to use the darker nights to do a the planning. I suspect that you have shortened that process by a considerable amount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Great route Henry - really appeals to us too - thanks for sharing it with us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJay Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Hi Henry Great post. Could I ask what MH you have? Some of us (well me) are a little bit (or even a lot) worried by mountain routes in a MH . Any height restrictions? as we are a little over 3mtr. and 6.2 plus bike rack (with box on) long. Love to hear of others great trips. Maybe there should be a place on the forum for "TRIPS" PJay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rupert123 Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 PJay - 2011-10-17 3:07 PM Hi Henry Great post. Could I ask what MH you have? Some of us (well me) are a little bit (or even a lot) worried by mountain routes in a MH . Any height restrictions? as we are a little over 3mtr. and 6.2 plus bike rack (with box on) long. Love to hear of others great trips. Maybe there should be a place on the forum for "TRIPS" PJay Thanks everyone for kind comments. PJay my van is 6.20m long with rack, 2.24m wide with mirrows folded and just over 3.00m high with sat dish down. No height restrictions that will worry you, except tunnel we could not get through mentioned in text, but even this will be fine by the end of this year. Will try and post a few pics if I can figure out how, anyone what is the best size for these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 rupert123 - 2011-10-17 3:41 PM PJay - 2011-10-17 3:07 PM Hi Henry Great post. Could I ask what MH you have? Some of us (well me) are a little bit (or even a lot) worried by mountain routes in a MH . Any height restrictions? as we are a little over 3mtr. and 6.2 plus bike rack (with box on) long. Love to hear of others great trips. Maybe there should be a place on the forum for "TRIPS" PJay Thanks everyone for kind comments. PJay my van is 6.20m long with rack, 2.24m wide with mirrows folded and just over 3.00m high with sat dish down. No height restrictions that will worry you, except tunnel we could not get through mentioned in text, but even this will be fine by the end of this year. Will try and post a few pics if I can figure out how, anyone what is the best size for these? A great post, I will file it away for future referance...Smallest pic size best I think Kirby! You have competition! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flicka Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 I can only repeat everyone else's comments Henry - Great post & thanks for sharing it with us. Due to various reasons, we have been unable to get across the channel this year. So we're even more envious than usual. Looking forward to a few photo's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laimeduck Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Rupert - great stuff, thank you. I have been caravanning & motorhoming at the Caravaneige at Le Grand Bornand (Col de la Colombiere) for the last 24 years for our annual Ski holiday. Le Grand Bornand is a fabulous Ski area for families - lots of Blue runs that even I can manage before diving into a bar on mid slope! It is a truly wonderful area & the L'Escale caravaneige in Le Grand Bornand is very welcoming & well appointed for Skiing. (M. & Madam Baur & family) I too have copied your route and will dip into it over the next few trips. PS You should read or listen to "Blaster Bates - a Shower of Sh1t over Cheshire" you will empathise I think :D :D :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevoboy Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Rupert / Henry ?? Thanks for the posting and really glad you enjoyed it. I think I was one of the few who replied to your earlier posting, as we cycled the whole route a few years back. I can only remember seeing two motorhomes in the two weeks we took to do the route, so it would seem that motorhoming it has become more popular. And after your report, I guess it will be even more so. ;-) We'd really love to go back ourselves one day, and as M/H owners ourselves now, we don't have much of an excuse not to, apart from not having passports anymore *-) . Anyway, truly inspiring and has brought back some great memories for us. Sorry you got splattered....our funniest experience was using the loos in St.Jean de Maurienne.... on flushing, a great swathe of water was washed out and over ones feet and out onto the road. We all had nice clean shoes, anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertandjean Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Just to add our thanks for an interesting and informative account; some writers of articles in MMM might well like to take note! Sorry could not give you any pre-trip info as this is one (of the few) areas of France we have not visited. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rupert123 Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 robertandjean - 2011-10-17 8:44 PM Just to add our thanks for an interesting and informative account; some writers of articles in MMM might well like to take note! Sorry could not give you any pre-trip info as this is one (of the few) areas of France we have not visited. Thanks again. You have given me quite a few aires in the past but the SE corner of France would seem to have very few. We intend to go back and explore the Mercantile national park some more but again very few aires. As you know we prefer sites but due to yours and others encouragement were determined to use a few more this trip. We were away for a total of 48 nights and spent 14 on aires, a new record for us, so your efforts have not been in vain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Collings Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 This thread brought back a few memories. Some Pics I think these are the Forts above Maldaneon the way to Mt Cenis. Wildcamping at Mt Cenis. I had the T shirt resulting from the high altitude Thetford Explosion but rpidly discarded it. The pic of the distended salad bag was taken close to where Ruperts mishap occured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike 202 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Henry, just managed to read and save your brilliant and informative post.Down in Spain at the moment, enjoying the Sun, but I have always loved the mountains. please could you advise at what time next year that you consider this journey to be most enjoyable. And especially when the passes are likely to be free of snow. Many thanks mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jennet Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 So pleased that you enjoyed following our Motorhome Tour of the Route des Grandes Alps and that you found my report as posted on the Homeandaway website useful. We certainly enjoyed our Tour and for anyone contemplating this trip you may find the details in my report helpful. You may also like to read about our latest adventure a Tour of Scotland and the Outer Hebrides which we did earlier this year. A full report will be posted on Homeandaway website shortly. As a point of interest I sent a similar report to MMM all about our experiences followingThe Tour du France which they returned to me saying that it would not be of interest to thier readers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rupert123 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 mike 202 - 2011-10-18 6:00 PM Henry, just managed to read and save your brilliant and informative post.Down in Spain at the moment, enjoying the Sun, but I have always loved the mountains. please could you advise at what time next year that you consider this journey to be most enjoyable. And especially when the passes are likely to be free of snow. Many thanks mike Thanks Mike. I would say any time after first week in July when all the cols will be open, most will be open from mid June but would need checking first. Obviously it is better if you can miss the school holidays so we choose first week in September and had great weather the whole way. Wish I was back in the sun, home in Wales it is raining, still whats new in that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rupert123 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 jennet - 2011-10-18 8:24 PM So pleased that you enjoyed following our Motorhome Tour of the Route des Grandes Alps and that you found my report as posted on the Homeandaway website useful. We certainly enjoyed our Tour and for anyone contemplating this trip you may find the details in my report helpful. You may also like to read about our latest adventure a Tour of Scotland and the Outer Hebrides which we did earlier this year. A full report will be posted on Homeandaway website shortly. As a point of interest I sent a similar report to MMM all about our experiences followingThe Tour du France which they returned to me saying that it would not be of interest to thier readers! Your report was really useful to us and we used some of your places to stay recommendations, I hope ours is just as useful to followers of this forum. Must say not to surprised at MMM reaction to your report offered to them. With the exception of Andy S. the travel reports are all the same old stuff which I gave up reading some time ago. They do not seem to realise a lot of the M/H community have moved on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jennet Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Yes I agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homenaway Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Hi,Jenny's article about their tour of Scotland is now on our website!there's a link to it on the front page Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rupert123 Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Homenaway - 2011-10-20 9:26 AMHi,Jenny's article about their tour of Scotland is now on our website!there's a link to it on the front pageSteveAnother really usefull write up by Jenny. We have done most of the stuff mentioned but nice to have some up to date detail especially about Outer Hebrides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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