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Positive Terminal.


harry the horse

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Hello all.

 

The positive terminal wiring on my leisure battery looks a right mess with items added over the years and including makers original equipment. Is there a conductive pre-drilled bracket that bolts straight onto the battery post for sale out there, it's got to be better than all those terminals held by one 6mm bolt.

 

Thanks

 

HTH.

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I'm not so sure I'd like the idea of that on a positive terminal. You'd have to be very careful with clearances, or swathe it in insulation.

 

One neat, but not cheap, solution would be to mimic what a lot of car-audio installer do, and install a mutiple output clamp.

 

An example of one that can provide several outlets can be seen here:

 

http://www.highdowncaraudio.com/acatalog/Battery_Clamps.html

 

......though, as this is the customary car-audio "bling" I simply post this as a quick reference to what I'm talking about. There are simpler and cheaper versions which work on a similar theme; eBay has them from time-to-time.

 

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harry the horse - 2011-11-27 7:37 PM

 

Hello all.

 

The positive terminal wiring on my leisure battery looks a right mess with items added over the years and including makers original equipment. Is there a conductive pre-drilled bracket that bolts straight onto the battery post for sale out there, it's got to be better than all those terminals held by one 6mm bolt.

 

Thanks

 

HTH.

 

One way to play this would be to retain your existing battery-clamp and use a suitably heavy-duty cable to connect the clamp's 6mm 'accessory stud' (that's currently festooned with wires) to a bus-bar from which you can lead those wires more tidily. There's an example on the following link and the website advertises alternatives:

 

https://www.electricalcarservices.com/busbar-hiamperage-3-point-terminal-including-cover-p-1678.html

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Derek Uzzell - 2011-11-28 9:05 AM

 

 

One way to play this would be to retain your existing battery-clamp and use a suitably heavy-duty cable to connect the clamp's 6mm 'accessory stud' (that's currently festooned with wires) to a bus-bar from which you can lead those wires more tidily. There's an example on the following link and the website advertises alternatives:

 

https://www.electricalcarservices.com/busbar-hiamperage-3-point-terminal-including-cover-p-1678.html

 

...hmmm, the same thing had also crossed my mind, though it might be difficult to make it neat (I'm assuming, possibly wrongly). that most of the additional connections are relatively low power demand).

 

I usually use VWP to check for such items (very helpful if you call them, or even call in). They have a similar, but much cheaper, unit at the bottom of this page:

 

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/battconn.php#jbox

 

....and also a number of different battery clamps on other pages, but none with more than a single accessory connection, which is why I posted as above.

 

 

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Robinhood - 2011-11-28 10:59 AM

 

...hmmm, the same thing had also crossed my mind, though it might be difficult to make it neat...

 

Just an example...

 

As long as there weren't too many wires, I'd probably opt for something like this:

 

https://www.electricalcarservices.com/4-point-positive-terminal-with-cover-ecs-v7705n0n02-p-94.html

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On the same lines as Derek,  and dependant on having enough space for one, I took one main feed from the positive terminal and fed it to a fuse box, linking all the terminals on one side of the fuse box to be Live(positive) then connected all the other removed cables to the other side of the fuse box then inserted suitable rated blade fuses , if something goes down its a lot easier to determine which line it is by the blow fuse,  fuse boxes like these

https://www.electricalcarservices.com/fuse-box-mini-blade-range-of-fuse-boxes-c-78_392.html

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Having had cause to replace a battery with one of these fitted, this was another item that had come to mind.

 

It (or a similar one depending on model) is shown in the diagram below as 2.

 

It is, however, a pretty unwieldy unit, as a central distribution point it is sized for large rated fuses (c70A minimum), and is costly to buy (at least at list) from a dealer.

 

I'd discounted it.

 

Battery.JPG.880bd53b10ed63fe42471a71ad463e05.JPG

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Corky 8 - 2011-11-28 9:33 PM

On the same lines as Derek,  and dependant on having enough space for one, I took one main feed from the positive terminal and fed it to a fuse box, linking all the terminals on one side of the fuse box to be Live(positive) then connected all the other removed cables to the other side of the fuse box then inserted suitable rated blade fuses , if something goes down its a lot easier to determine which line it is by the blow fuse,  fuse boxes like these

https://www.electricalcarservices.com/fuse-box-mini-blade-range-of-fuse-boxes-c-78_392.html

This suggestion gets my vote, because it gives the facility for correctly fusing the individual supply cables. The fuse, after all, is to protect the cable, not the load. There will already be a fuse at the battery positive, but it will be of far too high capacity to protect any lighter gauge cables led from it. Leading one, appropriately fused, cable from the battery terminal to a sub-fuseboard, and then feeding all other circuits via suitable individual fuses, is the safest, most readily understandable, and arguably the neatest, way to connect multiple sub-circuits. You can then even get really carried away, and label them, so that the source of any future problem can more readily be identified!
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