MMMreader Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Help needed - Swift Suntor 580 PR Motorhome Reg Mar 2008 I have low pressure from my new calor gas propane supply when using my gas hob or space heater. I have two new fully filled gas cylinders and the problem is with both. What is the most likely cause? (?). Regulator problem, maybe? (?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 As there are two cylinders, both new, both propane, and the same problem presents with both, then yes, I would first suspect the regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Many pigtails have a non return valve in one end. Some are fixed and some are removable, usually with a hex key. If gas does not flow check that this is not blocked and remove and clean or replace as needed. Be careful as you dismantle as a small spring and ball bearing sit behind the hollow securing screw and may shoot out if taken apart without care. The gas hob may well have a safety valve which only opens to allow gas to flow when the hob lid is fully raised. Opening and shutting the lid a few times can sometimes release said valve if it is sticking and is a lot easier than taking the oven out to get at it! I suspect that this valve would not affect heating etc and so may well not apply in this case - but I could be wrong - and it is worth knowing for the future as it can be hard to trace if you don't know about it! Does the fridge work OK on gas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 MMMreader Simplest way to check for a non-return valve problem (or any sort of pigtail-related blockage) would be to disconnect the pigtail at the the regulator-end and turn the gas-bottle on. (Taking suitable safety measures, of course!) This should identify whether the gas-pressure at the regulator inlet is low. But what you've described - insufficient gas pressure for high-demand gas appliances to work properly - are classic symptoms of a failing regulator, particularly if that regulator is Truma/GOK branded. Can you say which make/type of regulator you've got, please? Is it an 'ordinary' bulkhead-mounted regulator or a Truma/GOK "Drive-Safe/Secumotion" regulator with a green button on the regulator and on the pigtail? It might also be worthwhile knowing whether there were any signs of this problem before the two full Calor bottles were brought into use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Derek Uzzell - 2012-01-07 6:19 PM MMMreader Simplest way to check for a non-return valve problem (or any sort of pigtail-related blockage) would be to disconnect the pigtail at the the regulator-end and turn the gas-bottle on. (Taking suitable safety measures, of course!) This should identify whether the gas-pressure at the regulator inlet is low. That is what I would do but not knowing the level of ability of MMMReader I was reluctant to suggest it as the sudden rush of high pressure gas can be alarming if you are not used to it. That method, in a WELL VENTILATED area, is also a good way to clear a blocked pigtail but it does not always work - but it least if it does not it does identify the culprit! There is also the risk that whilst a hgh pressure blast will release a sticky NRV it does not remove the gung that makes it stick and unless cleaned or replaced it will stick again. I always carry a spare pigtail - that virtually guarantees no problems! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MMMreader Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Thanks for replies. My MH is stored away from home so will check type of regulator on next visit in a weeks time. There is some gas to the hob, just about a 1/4 inch flicker but not enough to fire up the space heater or fridge. I will do the pigtail test next week but may leave problem until my habitation service is done mid February. Thanks again for everyone's help. Happy new year motorhoming to you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest peter Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 If it's the regulator don't bother replacing it with a truma/gok one as it will go again. I fitted one of these instead. http://www.socal.co.uk/clesse-30mb-euro-regulator-10mm-outlet.html At £30 less than half the price of a truma. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 There's a fair chance that Swift has used 8mm-diameter metal gas-tubing for MMMreader's Suntor, in which case a regulator with an 8mm outlet (or a 10mm-8mm reducing adapter for the Clesse regulator Peter refers to) would be needed. Also, it may not be an easy-peasy task to swap the original regulator for one made by a different manufacturer, or even to swap it for one made by the same manufacturer but having an updated design. http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=14630&posts=7 If a change to a Clesse regulator is envisaged, it might be worth paying a bit more and opting for one with a change-over device. http://www.socal.co.uk/toolbox/regulators-adaptors/low-pressure/caravan-regulators/clesse-30mb-manual-change-over-valve-8mm-outlet.html If MMMreader's Swift currently has a Truma/GOK "Drive-Safe/Secumotion" regulator and pigtail, it needs highlighting that swapping either of these items for another manufacturer's products would negate the motorhome's (potential) capability for its gas heater to be operated while the vehicle is being driven in EU countries where that practice would generally be prohibited (eg. France). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.