Poursay Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 The other week I decided to drain down the van for winter, I used the Thetford electric flush to empty the flush tank when it stopped working. I used the drain in the casette hatch to completely empty the tank, but is there a fuse ( I found one in the casette holder space - 3amp- but this seemed OK?) There seems to be no access to the flush "innards" . Any idea guys? Also talking of fuses, I went to check the main fuse box, EC200 with 2 sets of fuses in clear plastic holders, but how do I get to the fuses? I tried pulling/ pushing/tugging etc to no avail. Obviously as not sure of correct method, I didn't want to excert too much brute force. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith T Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Ours is the electric version, but to the best of my knowledge, has no 'header' tank, it simply draws water offf the main fresh water tank when you press the flush button. The only 'water' to empty is the cassette waste itself. I also haev never found a fuse in the cassette holder space! Perhaps it depends on the specific model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
747 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Do you have a SOG system fitted? That would account for the fuse. Try letting members know what model and year of van you have and it may help you get advice. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Mike The Sargent EC200 unit is shown on: http://www.sargentltd.co.uk/EC200_System_Instructions.PDF Asuming that's what you've got, the fuses are just pulled out. Might prove tricky in practice if there's any corrosion between the fuse blades and the fuse holder though. Try wiggling them as you pull 'em - if they are really reluctant you'll just have to be brutal and use pliers. It's often helpful to know the make/model/year of the motorhome. I'm guessing yours is still a Swift Kon-Tiki (though I don't think you ever said which model it was or how old) and I presume you eventually discovered the cause of your Truma heater problem? Keith T All electric-flush Thetford C-200 toilets have a 3A fuse - it's located in the 'roof' of the cassette-locker towards the front of the locker. (Seek and thou shalt find. ;-) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave225 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 You mention you checked the main fuse box but I always thought these had trip fuses so if they are down then they have 'tripped' Pushing them up resets them. Also does the other electrics work? If so, then it is not the main fuse box. It is possible the pump itself has just seized possibly due to lack of use or even some dirt in the impeller. You can get at it and Thetford have instructions on their webpage as to how to get into it. Mine did stop working after a winter of storage but re-started itself after a day or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread24800 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Thetford produce a repair pfd which might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Dave225 - 2012-01-28 8:36 PM You mention you checked the main fuse box but I always thought these had trip fuses so if they are down then they have 'tripped' Pushing them up resets them. Also does the other electrics work? If so, then it is not the main fuse box. It is possible the pump itself has just seized possibly due to lack of use or even some dirt in the impeller. You can get at it and Thetford have instructions on their webpage as to how to get into it. Mine did stop working after a winter of storage but re-started itself after a day or so. You'll see from the Sargent link I gave that the 12V DC outputs of the EC200 unit are protected (as Mike said) by two sets of 4 blade-fuses and (according to Sargent's instructions) Fuse 7 (10A) relates to "Water pumps/Toilet". If that's correct, then it might be possible to check if Fuse 7 is OK without removing it by confirming whether or not Mike's motorhome's main water-pump works. If there's 12V power at the fuse in the cassette-locker and that fuse is OK, then (as you say) the problem may well lie with the toilet's own pump, though it's worth noting that it had been working when Mike began to drain the flush tank. An earlier related thread (nb. the links on it may be outdated) on http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=22064&posts=10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Keith T - 2012-01-28 6:33 PM Ours is the electric version, but to the best of my knowledge, has no 'header' tank, it simply draws water offf the main fresh water tank when you press the flush button. The only 'water' to empty is the cassette waste itself. I also haev never found a fuse in the cassette holder space! Perhaps it depends on the specific model? Not so, quite a few have seperate 'flush water tanks' fitted, which allows 'Pink (get the 'Anti-Bacterial' one by Elsan) stuff' to be added. The Thetford one just 'Breeds bacteria'. and Black bits in the tank. Blade Fuse in upper area of cassette mounting 'slot'. C200E. ;-) Ray Apologies, re-read your post, thought you meant that ALL electric flush models have no header tank. Also find that Thetford 'Blue' is pretty 'useless' as well now, have they changed the ingredients ? And please don't extol the Virtues of a 'Sog' system, tried one, But my stomach isn't strong enough at 'Emptying time'. and the wife 'Banned it's use'. Back to 'Good Old' Elsan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hallii Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Pulling fuses is much easier with the small plastice puller sold for the job, I think Halfords sell them. Blade fuses (or any other ) should be tested with a meter or bulb and battery, a visual inspection will not prove or disprove a faulty fuse. They can crack or corrode through. Cheap fuses from some far away foriegn place are rubbish, buy proper ones, they will last longer and "blow" at the correct loading. H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith T Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Rayjsj - 2012-01-29 12:18 PM Keith T - 2012-01-28 6:33 PM Ours is the electric version, but to the best of my knowledge, has no 'header' tank, it simply draws water offf the main fresh water tank when you press the flush button. The only 'water' to empty is the cassette waste itself. I also haev never found a fuse in the cassette holder space! Perhaps it depends on the specific model? Not so, quite a few have seperate 'flush water tanks' fitted, which allows 'Pink (get the 'Anti-Bacterial' one by Elsan) stuff' to be added. The Thetford one just 'Breeds bacteria'. and Black bits in the tank. Blade Fuse in upper area of cassette mounting 'slot'. C200E. ;-) Ray Apologies, re-read your post, thought you meant that ALL electric flush models have no header tank. Also find that Thetford 'Blue' is pretty 'useless' as well now, have they changed the ingredients ? And please don't extol the Virtues of a 'Sog' system, tried one, But my stomach isn't strong enough at 'Emptying time'. and the wife 'Banned it's use'. Back to 'Good Old' Elsan. Have just checked, and yes there is a fuse in the cassette housing! Would never have known!! Certainly ours has no header tank, though, and I just assumed that was standard to all electric ones.....must admit I did prefer to be able to add some 'pink; fluid, and yes, we do suffer the residue of black bits. Also, agree with your comment aboiut Thetford fluid, we now use 'One-Chem', whcih we find much more efficient, less odour, and is in a handy 1 litre bottle with a magic spout which measures the amount required! It's also (from memory) cheaper than Thetford products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poursay Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi Guys Thanks for info. Yes I should have said that it was a 2006 Swift Kontiki 645 - sorry it would have helped. There is a separate header tank - filled externally with the pink stuff. I had removed the fuse and it "looked OK ". Will remove it again and check properly. With regard to the main box, there are RCDs - which were all OK - the problem I had was the fuses. Theses are housed in two plastic covers and it is these that I couldn't remove. With regard to the heater, I did find and replace the fuse - but it blew again. I was living in Somerset at the time and took the van to a guy in Chard, the heater worked initially but blew again. We have now moved to Worthing ( Sussex ) any recommendations for repairs / servicing please. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poursay Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Spot on Hallii. The original 3amp fuse in the cassette locker looked fine - but when I replaced it - lo and behold the pump worked. Goes to show should always double check fuses! Still haven't managed to remove the clear plastic covers on the main bix, but will keep trying. Thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Poursay - 2012-01-30 8:21 PM Spot on Hallii. The original 3amp fuse in the cassette locker looked fine - but when I replaced it - lo and behold the pump worked. Goes to show should always double check fuses! Still haven't managed to remove the clear plastic covers on the main bix, but will keep trying. Thanks Mike Ah, I thought it was a bit odd that you were having trouble removing the 12V fuses from your EC200 unit and - on re-reading your original posting - I now realise that you weren't asking about removing the fuses themselves, but removing the covers that protect those fuses. I can't give you a definitive answer, but this type of cover is usually attached via 'lugs' moulded into the cover's base that push into slots beneath the base. Try squeezing the top and bottom edges of the cover towards each other as you lift the cover. Or push the top of the cover downwards as you simultaneously lift the top of the cover upwards (ie. so it sort of 'hinges' on its bottom edge). If the cover is really tightly attached, you may have to lever beneath the appropriate edge of the cover to get it off. To protect against cosmetic damage, stick some tape on the EC200's surface alongside the edge of the cover that you are applying leverage to. If you find that something really thin (like a Stanley knife blade) is needed to act as a lever, then wear eye protection, just in case the blade breaks. Try shining a bright torch into the edges of the cover to see if you can spot where the lugs are - if you can identify the position of the lugs, you should be able to get a better idea where to lift, push or lever. As you've cured your toilet problem (and, presumably, aren't desperate to get at the EC200's fuses), you could ask Sargent whether there's a trick to removing the covers. There doesn't appear to be anything on the Sargent website suggesting that a special technique is required to remove the fuse covers, but it would do no harm to ask. Contact details below and I suggest you phone rather than e-mail. Sargent Electrical Services Ltd. Unit 39, Tokenspire Business Park Beverley East Yorkshire HU17 0TB United Kingdom Phone 01482 881655 Fax 01482 678987 E-mail support@sargentltd.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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