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Vented or not


lancepar

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New to Motorhomes (Ex-Caravaner).

 

My question is regarding filling the fresh water tank on a '05 Cheyenne 635 with a hose. I have a hose on a reel but before I get a filler cap with a push-on connector is the tank on the Cheyenne vented or not or how do I find out so I can get the correct filler cap? Does it matter?

Cheers

 

B-)

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Hi Lancepar,

 

We've got an '04 Cheyenne 632 so would imagine your's is very similar to ours which does have a vented tank. Or at least the tank has an overflow which would act as a vent if the tank was filled with a sealed connector.

 

The other way to check would be whether there is a separate small vent pipe connected to the back of the filler. Our's has not, the stub is just left open on the back of the filler.

 

For interest why do you feel you need a filler cap with a push-on connector? We just push the end of the hose 6" or so into the filler neck and fill like that. Only curiosity you appreciate.

 

Keith.

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H All,

 

Yes hose is food grade and has a built in water stop, unsure what this it meant to do.

 

Not done this yet but when at home I will not be in line of site with the supply tap to turn it off when camper tank is full for example.

 

Was going to push the hose inside the filler neck, but matey asked me why not get a clip-on filler cap

 

Cheers

.

 

B-)

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lancepar - 2012-02-04 12:06 PM

 

H All,

 

Yes hose is food grade and has a built in water stop, unsure what this it meant to do.

 

Not done this yet but when at home I will not be in line of site with the supply tap to turn it off when camper tank is full for example.

 

Was going to push the hose inside the filler neck, but matey asked me why not get a clip-on filler cap

 

Cheers

.

 

B-)

 

You can buy a hozelock type in line tap that fits at the end of your hose at the van end then turn on at the tap go to van and control the flow from the van.

 

The Water Stop means you can disconnect the end of the hose and a valve will stop water coming out but Beware the water is under pressure and has to be removed anyway

Alf

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I get the wife to stand and hold our normal run of th mill hosepipe until it gurgles in the filler pipe. She then shouts 'Turn it off or Right' or words to that effect and I turn the tap off. This has worked for us for donkeys years without a problem. Occasionally she has got her feet splashed when I have not turned it off fast enough-usually when she disagreed with me over something the night before!

This filler cap seems to be a bit of a waste of money to me-along the lines of the big red PLASTIC fire buckets we see for sale at various accessory dealers

Mike

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Hi Lancepar,

 

I wouldn't worry too much about filling it as by the design of the overflow you will (I hope) not get wet feet.

The tank will overflow under the centre of the MH before it overflows at the filler neck. (Well ours always has :D ).

 

As for holding the hose in, I have a 12" length of hose with a hozelock fitting on one end that I push the plain end well into the filler and can then use any of the 3 or 4 lengths of hose I carry depending on how near the tap we can get. Or if needs be can link them together to reach a fair distance. I haven't yet had it blow out or even got my feet wet!

 

HTH,

Keith.

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Does not really matter what the locking cap is you have at present although I expect all of them are vented by teh nature of how they ar emade and need a vent to drain rain water ( or washin water) out of the lock mechanism. Soa l ckimng caps will vent air to at least some extent.

 

Irrespective of this you are best with a vented hose connection cap, because when the tank fills up with water and is full, any existing vents may not be enough to drain water quick enough and the tank 'inflates' and could be damaged. a cap with channels to let air and water out for filling is desirable. When full water floods out and you disconnect quickly. You will also hear the air coming out and the noise both the air and the water running in will alert you to when tank is nearly full. Then you remove and replace existing locking cap.

 

I do not accept it is as useful as a chocolate teapot scenario, but at times can solve a problem of the hose keeping on falling out or one having to stand in blowing rain holding a hose when you could be sitting in the cab for a few minutes while tank fills.

 

I used have one, easily lost if you leave it on and someone nicks it, and now use a rubber tab connector, the tappered type. I fold the wider end back on itself, and place well down the hose by a few inches. It fits into the filling aperature very nicely and the weight of hose gives it plenty enough grip along with the ribs on the rubber not to fall out. When tank is full it gets blown out and so no excess pressure in tank.

 

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Hi Lancepar ... welcome to the mad house! :-D

 

We find that when the hosepipe is pushed into the filler point on the MH, a second piece about 6 inches or so in length, pushed in next to it keeps the hose nicely in place so we don't have to stay with it, it is best to turn the water on slowish though to avoid the initial force of fast water pushing the hose out (unless someone standing nearby wants a 'cold shower'!).

 

When the tank is full the water comes out of the filler (even though we have a vent too) so we know when to turn off ... especially if we're standing too close at the time! :D

 

 

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lancepar - 2012-02-04 5:38 PM

 

So the locking cap will be non-vented then and if I do decide to get a push on hose connector cap, then I assume this will need to be the non-vented type as well.

 

BTW I will probably make one myself.

 

Thank you all.

B-)

 

A motorhome's fresh-water tank that has it's own 'built-in' overflow/vent may well be paired with a non-vented filler-cap - that's the case with my Hobby. Conversely, if the tank has no built-in overflow/vent, then the cap needs to be vented to prevent a vacuum forming in the tank when water is drawn from it.

 

As far as filling the tank is concerned, whether or not the tank (or filler-cap) is vented won't normally matter when the filler-hose is just pushed into the motorhome's filler inlet, as there will be sufficient air-space between the outside of the hose and the inner 'wall' of the inlet to permit air within the tank to vent back through the filler inlet. However, it will matter if a tank is un-vented and products like these are used

 

http://www.campervanstuff.com/shop_stuff/index.php?mod=product&id_prd=1342

 

It's important when purchasing (or DIY producing) this type of connector-cap product a) to make sure that the connector-cap is the correct type for your motorhome (cap designs vary) and b) that you don't combine a non-vented connector-cap with a non-vented fresh-water tank.

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Our m/h filler pipe has a bend so you cannot put a hose in far enough to stop water comming back.

I got a cap with hose lock connector and vent hole, this has worked very reliabley plus no dirty hose ends in

tank.

Just realised, it was our last M/H that had a problem but I still use the cap as its so good.

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cyclops2 - 2012-02-05 9:56 AM

 

I use a 10 litre watering can on site. Easy and also good exercise

 

Pete

Certa Cito

 

 

That's what we do. We tend to move on every three days or so and don't use much water so we look at the gauge and decide how many cans to add. Our aim is not to be left carrying a lot of water when we

leave so we almost never fill the tank. Not sporting I know but if another motorhome has just booked in ahead of us and is filling the tank with a hose we can drive round and pick the best pitch. Mostly we are able to find a nice pitch not to far away from a service point so using the watering can is no hardship. We normally use about two cams a day.

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