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Truma Heating Problem


kevfromwales

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Kev

 

I've no hands-on experience of Truma S3002-based heating systems, though I'm familiar enough with them conceptually.

 

It may well not help in this instance, but it's handy when trying to advise on a problem to know the make, model and year of manufacture of the motorhome involved and how long someone has owned it.

 

Certain motorhomes have known problems, and one might expect certain types of faults to be commonplace on older motorhomes rather than on newer ones. There have also been (infrequent) cases where the 'problem' is the consequence of a motorhome owner's inexperience with the motorhome's technology rather than a genuine fault. And it's always useful to have confirmation that a fault is 'new' rather than having been around for a while. Presumably your blown-air heating used to operate OK, but suddenly stopped doing so?

 

I'm unsure whether the fact that your Truma heater has the Ultraheat option is significant or not. Your heating system comprises a Truma S3002 'fire' + a Trumavent fan-unit + an Ultraheat 230V heating element. As you refer to a 10A fuse, I assume this is a 230V fuse rather than a 12V fuse, as the Ultraheat option would need a 10A 230V fuse, whereas I can't see why there would need to be a 10A 12V fuse to protect the heater + fan when the system is operating on gas. So I'm guessing that the fuse-blowing problem occurs when you select 230V heating and blown-air operation - is that correct?

 

What happens when blown-air operation is selected when the heater is running only on gas? If that works OK, then one can reasonably rule out the Trumavent fan-unit as being problematical.

 

If blown-air is operational on gas but not on 230V, then it's possible that the heater's Ultraheat 230V element has developed a fault. Does the Ultraheat 230V element work OK without blown-air being selected?

 

 

 

 

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From my caravanning days I seem to remember there was a couple of problems with these heater.

 

A build up of fluff and muck on the fan making it run slow and draw more current which then blows the fuse. Often a good clean often sorts it out but sometimes the fan bearing has had it and the fan needs replacing.

 

If it has an electric heating element the fluff build up on the fan also causes the electric element to overheat and often burns it out.

 

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The question still remains - which type of 10A fuse?

 

A Trumavent fan-unit draws just 1A of 12V power at maximum output, so a 10A 12V fuse for the blown-air fan would be massive overkill. However, it's possible that a 12V fuse that provides protection for the heater's fan-unit might also protect other equipment and this could explain a higher fuse-rating.

 

An Ultraheat element produces a maximum of 2000W of heat outpur, equating to 8.7A of 230V power. Truma advises 230V fuse-protection of 10A minimum, with 16A recommended. Online comments suggest that a 10A fuse is sometimes used, but (for a UK-built motorhome) one might expect a 13A domestic 230V fuse to be fitted.

 

This kind of enquiry can often be resolved more easily over the phone than via an online forum. The Truma(UK) technicians would be able to offer expert advice

 

http://www.truma.com/uk/en/home/service-center.php

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Hi Derek,

 

Thanks for the reply the 10A fuse is on the dc control panel and it only runs the fans for the blown air, the blown was working but just started this problem of blowing the fuse. It is all clear not blocked with anything and spins freely and works fine when on gas thanks for your help.

 

Thanks

Kev

 

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