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fitting awning rail


johnts

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My first van, an Elddis Autoquest, had no awning. A 'J' rail was sikaflexed to the side panel to take my driveaway awning.

 

Just check on the recommended height for whatever you want to attach and make sure it will fit.

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Personally,for fixing a "C" shaped awning rail(one that'd take the tension of an "ordinary" awning),as well as Sikaflex,I'd also want some "physical" fixings(stainless steel s/tappers or aluminium rivets),as after all,an adhesive is only as strong as the paint/laminate/coating that it's sticking to...

 

Just make sure that you don't drill through any wires!... ;-)

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Just to add to my,rushed,post above. :$

 

Source a one piece length,rather than the "kits",which consist of 3-4 short sections...

Also,in the past,I have used some awning rail of the type with the pre-drilled fixing flanges either side...and I found that there was insufficient clearance to allow the screw heads to pass,without marking the outer edges of the "C" (..if that makes any sense at all?? :-S )

 

In my case I was only fixing it to an aluminium angle,which I then bolted to the underside of the Fiamma windout housing ,so it was able to be returned to standard when sold.

But if I was looking to fix directly to the van wall,I'd probably look at the "proper" awning rails,as are used on caravans(..of the type that has plastic end caps and a bead insert covering the fixings).

 

..and if you do opt for for using some screws/rivets,it's best to do a "first-fix",with 2-3 screws(or some double sided tape?),drill all the pilot holes and then take it off and remove all the swarf and burrs..*before* applying the sikaflex and re-attaching.

 

Chris

 

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My advice would be not to bother !

 

We had a fixed wind out awning, and it spent most of its time wound in as it was too scary in a wind.

 

Then we went with a drive away awning, but OK when we first pitched up, but if we drove of, it was not worth the effort of trying to align the m/home to refit it

 

So now we use the m/home awning and have a couple of extending poles and use them attached to the m/home flap as a sort of fly sheet/ sun shade.

 

Later I found that we could attach our Lillypad sun screen to the flap and increased the useable area by 80%. Ideal for keeping the bikes in. (Used the split 8 fitting)

 

No holes in the bodywork, and more usable area than when attached to the m/home.

 

Rgds

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tonyishuk - 2012-08-08 7:32 PM

 

....So now we use the m/home awning and have a couple of extending poles and use them attached to the m/home flap as a sort of fly sheet/ sun shade.

 

Later I found that we could attach our Lillypad sun screen to the flap and increased the useable area by 80%. Ideal for keeping the bikes in. (Used the split 8 fitting)

 

No holes in the bodywork, and more usable area than when attached to the m/home.

 

Rgds

 

Sorry Tony,not quite with you..?

Can you run through it again please?

..and what do you mean by, "..m/home awning .......attached to m/home flap..."? and also.."..more usable than when attached to the m/home.." ? :-S

Thanks

Chris

 

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Chris, i think what Tony means is:

 

They still use a drive-away motorhome awning - these have a tunnel piece which is attached to one side othe drive-away awning and the other side is what you would normally attach to a rail on the motorhome (or throw the guy ropes over the top of the motorhome and secure with straps), thus pulling the far edge of the tunnel part tight up against the motorhome side. However, instead of attaching the tunnel to the motorhome they appear instead to use 2 poles (tent type I assume, or even extending clothes props) and attach the 2 outer upper corners of the tunnel part to these and probably peg them out with guy ropes to tighten it up in some way. It then makes sense as when they attach their side screens between the main part of the drive-away awning and the motorhome/poles, this then forms the extra enclosed area.

 

If it isn't that, then i don't understand either! :D

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Mel B - 2012-08-10 6:35 PM

 

 

They still use a drive-away motorhome awning - these have a tunnel piece which is attached to one side othe drive-away awning and the other side is what you would normally attach to a rail on the motorhome (or throw the guy ropes over the top of the motorhome and secure with straps), thus pulling the far edge of the tunnel part tight up against the motorhome side. However, instead of attaching the tunnel to the motorhome they appear instead to use 2 poles (tent type I assume, or even extending clothes props) and attach the 2 outer upper corners of the tunnel part to these and probably peg them out with guy ropes to tighten it up in some way. It then makes sense as when they attach their side screens between the main part of the drive-away awning and the motorhome/poles, this then forms the extra enclosed area.

 

:D

 

Well, that saved me a lot of work :D

 

Thanks Mel

 

I will try and find a photo of how we pitch the awning and post it.

 

Rgds

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Photo Awning shows connecting flap and poles with Lillypad sunscreen.

 

Photo fixings show the supporting poles.

 

The awning has a sleeve which will take a horizontal pole to support the front of the opening.

The vertical poles have a paint roller on the spike of the awning pole to acts as a fixing and safety cover.

The Lillypad screen is fixed by using a split 8 awning fixing.

Both the Lillypad and awning have the same diameter of pull cord.

 

Rgds

1659917733_Awning01.jpg.c312c854e114c5317b56fa5667664d8a.jpg

500900674_Fixing02.jpg.d640914cc1b6c9281d0f2ab6aa6c18e2.jpg

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Guest pelmetman

Puzzled of pelmetland...................... by the paint roller? :-S .............what does it do?

 

As looking at the pic nothings going to come off :D

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The poles have a spike on the end that would do justice to an Olympic javelin !

 

I tried the paint rollers when I was experimenting with the uprights against the m/home as an alternative to using an awning rail.

 

Sorta worked and have remained ever since (and I know I have some spares when it comes to home decorating )

 

Rgds

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Its a Movelight XL by Outdoor Revolution http://www.outdoor-revolution.com/

 

If you click on the LHS there is are a range of drive away awnings, Many more than a few years ago when we bought ours.

 

Points to watch, These types of awning taper upwards and whilst have a fair sized floor area, it can get quite small when stuff inside are moved to avoid rubbing on the walls.

 

In an exposed windy position the awning can shake rattle and roll !

 

That said it suits us as a quick erect awning with ample space for two of us.

 

We also have a Harrison metal framed awning, weighs a ton, but virtually bomb proof and has vertically no taper so all floor space is usable

 

Rgds

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Slightly O/Topic but I was playing with the idea of getting a couple of suction handles to stick to the side of the motor home and using velcro to secure uprights to them.

 

The uprights would act as support for the awning "tunnel" rather than having to fix an awning rail.

 

My misgivings were "what would the suction grip do to the gel coat on the m/home" ?

 

Rgds

days-suction-support-grip-handle-498-large.jpg.2568e8a9a3d6f11ed3c7e7e25a1f8fe6.jpg

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Guest pelmetman
Rowan Lee - 2012-08-11 3:35 PM

 

Pelmetman,

 

We have been looking for just the sort of freestanding driveaway awning that you possess. What make is it please, and how big?

 

Many thanks.

 

 

Its a Suncamp Maestro HT not sure if there available new now days :-S..............But should be able to find one secondhand without to much trouble, we like it because its pretty bombproof, and weight isn't an issue now we have a box trailer ;-)..............

 

Found this though?

 

http://www.a2zcamping.co.uk/factory-second-motorhome-awnings/sunncamp-maestro-ht-motor-annexe.html

 

Sunncamp Maestro Motor Annexe HT (High Top) - Blue

A fantastic Motor Home Awning designed to fit Taller motor homes.

 

Size:

 

Height: 265cm

Width 320cm

Depth 210cm

 

 

Front Panel can be rolled down to make a veranda style look or completely removed.

 

Side Panels have a door and window on each side

 

Galvanised Steel frame for durability, stability and strength

 

Weight approx 35kg

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tonyishuk - 2012-08-11 8:24 PM

 

Slightly O/Topic but I was playing with the idea of getting a couple of suction handles to stick to the side of the motor home and using velcro to secure uprights to them.

 

The uprights would act as support for the awning "tunnel" rather than having to fix an awning rail.

 

My misgivings were "what would the suction grip do to the gel coat on the m/home" ?

 

Rgds

 

Hi Tony

IMHO don't use them on the Motorhome.

We have 2 of them in shower for my wife as it means we can release & reposition as required.

They are designed to be stuck on a rigid surface & I think that if used for securing an Awning any breeze will start to flex them.

Resulting in either

a) the suction will fail & the awning collapses

b) they remain in place & start to flex the Motorhome wall. That could be sufficient to breakdown the bond between the external wall & the inner core.

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There's a brief guide here that may be useful

 

http://www.camperlands.co.uk/caravan-awning-fitting-guide.html

 

plus a couple of earlier forum threads

 

http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=27678&posts=8

 

http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=27536&posts=21

 

I echo pepe63's advice on using 'mechanical' fixings as well as adhesive/sealant - marine-grade stainless-steel self-tapping screws are readily available nowadays.

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