pepe63xnotuse Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 As the title indicates,I'm looking to replace and posibly re-configure the exhaust "pipe" on our van (... being mild steel,it's looking a bit ropey and is possibly on it's way out). Currently it exits the transverse mounted silencer(which is still fine and will remain),takes a 90 degree bend and after 4-5ft ,it cranks out ,to the side of the van,exiting forward of the rear wheels... Now I realise that it has been designed like this to keep the exit away from any windows which could be open whilst travelling,however it does exit below the lowest part of the vehicles' side skirt(...the built in step skirt). I'm thinking of replacing it all with a simple 2ft section of stainless steel pipe(..with possibly a "cranked" end trim?)which would come straight out from the silencer and exit just forward of(..and NOT below)the habitation door/built in step portion of the skirt... Firstly,does anyone foresee any problem with just having a short,straight pipe as described?(.."back pressure" etc? ) And secondly...Can anyone recommend an online supplier where I could get the relevent "bits" from??.. ..because I've being going around and around in circles trying to source something locally!... *-) I've tried umpteen exhaust "oulets"...motor factors...steel fabrictors etc etc and none of which have been the slightest bit interested(..obviously the "job", isn't big enough..)... I have even considered "cannibalizing" the old one and using the best bit,just for now... (..but I'd really prefer to keep the orignal intact,as a "pattern" ) Any help/expriences would be appreciated... (sorry for the lengthy "waffle" :$ ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Blimey ..37 views and not one "response"...?... :-S (...Maybe I should've included such phrases as "Dog-free" or "Wildcamping" in the post... (lol) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Doubt that habitation windows are an issue as they should be closed whilst in transit, but check where the low level vents are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 The fridge vents are that side..and I dare say there may well be a gas drop vent to the rear of the "proposed" exhaust position.. I hadn't really thought of them..? :-S (..and the side hab' window,is a sliding type ,so can be open whilst travelling..not that it ever is though). You can just about make out the end of the exhaust..it's "new position" would put it forward of the step(behind the open door in the photo).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 1. I don't envisage any technical problem resulting from you replacing the current long exhaust section with a shorter one - this is a 'van' not a racing car! 2. I strongly advise you to forget buying on-line. You really need to discuss with the exhaust specialist what you want and for the specialist to inspect the vehicle itself. I've bought stainless exhaust systems in the past that, supposedly, had been carefully crafted to be an exact fit and I've always had to modify them. Not funny if large diameter tubing needs to be bent, or if a mounting bracket is in the wrong place. There are a good many firms that have the capability of making bespoke stainless-steel exhaust systems, and a cursory GOOGLE search on "stainless steel exhaust" retrieved several possibilities including http://www.longlife.co.uk/ with a dealership at Mr Tyre Shrewsbury, Units 5 & 6 Sundorne Trade Park, Featherbed Lane, Shrewsbury, Shropshire SY1 4NS Tel: 01743 491607 Email: shrewsbury@longlife.co.uk JP Exhausts http://www.jpexhausts.co.uk/ has been around for years and I know they used to produce full or part stainless exhaust systems for motohomes. But, if you can find someone more local to you, that would be the logical way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 If the vans been constructed correctly the fridge vents should be no problem, they should be sealed from the habitation area. On one van, pos Rimor we hired, the gas drop out was in hab door, not at all obvious but the bottom of door had a cleverly concelled gap at bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Thanks for taking the time to do that Derek.. ...I'll call in at "Mr Tyre" later in the week and see what they say... ;-) (..as they weren't on the "already tried" list...) In fairness to a couple that I tried,they would've quoted me for replacing/sourcing as per the original(..if I had left it with them)..but they were reluctant to deviate from the original... This was one reason that I was looking down the "online supplier" route. Also because the set up I envisage wouldn't need any "fabricating" at all,as it would just consist of a dead straight pipe(..be it a swaged section,that'd sleeve over the silencer outlet or just a plain section,butted and clamped with a parallel sleeve clamp..) and then just supported by a basic hanger bracket... Oops! Just crossed you post Colin... Yeah,come to think of it now,there are some REALLY obvious vents in the inbuilt step.....that could be another reason why they've routed it the way the have... *-) This may call for a rethink..... Thanks again both... ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebishbus Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Hi . Usually the side that the exhaust exits from depends on whether LHD or RHD it is usually on the road side rather than the pavement side. I would think shortening the outlet pipe would increase the exhaust efficiency , less resistance to the flow. Brian B. ps ours comes out below an opening widow and boiler outlet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I think I *may* be over-thinking the "fumes entering via gas drops etc",side of things.. :$ (lol) ...after all,the exhaust on our previous X250 Peugeot exited under the driver's door/window... Apart from the fact that it'd need replacing at some stage anyway,our current exhaust is ridiculously low..on a level surface,it's only 5" from the ground!... :-S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 If you just want a couple of feet of stainless-steel tube, you might try contacting this Shrewsbury company http://www.ssaltd.net/ If you planned to 'crank' the material, then you'd need a fabricator with suitable bending equipment. The main (and obvious) risk is ending up with tubing that won't fit over the silencer outlet - that's why I suggested you don't buy on-line. You might notice a noise increase if you bring the exhaust straight out forward of the entrance-step, as the exhaust-outlet would now be 4-5ft closer to the cab. If it were straightforward, your original suggestion to 'crank' the outlet rearwards might be worthwhile. Again it's stating the obvious, but it would be wise to have the exhaust-outlet sticking out at least a little way beyond the motorhome's side-skirt, otherwise exhaust fumes will muck up the skirt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerC Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 There's a whole load of 'bespoke' stainless steel exhaust makers/fitters out there as has been suggested. Just remember if you go the DIY route getting the pipe bent to the correct radius (if required) will be nigh on impossible to do at home. In addition you'll need to make sure you have the correct support mounts and somewhere to mount them. Having a custom made stainless steel system is very cost effective if you intend keeping the vehicle for many years because some come with a 'lifetime' warranty. All that's required is an annual inspection and if any repairs etc are required it doesn't cost you anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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