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Insulating external heater ducting


thirtle26

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As we're gong to the Newark show to camp for a few days, and with the prospect of cold weather on it's way again (and snow!) I thought I'd better do some jobs on the camper to make it more 'winterised'.

 

My van has the same type of external heating pipe as thirtle has under his van so today I braved the weather (bright but cold) and had a look at insulating it. I used some sheets of bubble wrap in 2 pieces, the first I wrapped round and held it in place with a few strips of pvc tape, and the second sheet I placed over it and then secured it all with cable ties, before totally encasing it in some 4 inch wide black gaffer tape. Hopefully it will prevent any heat loss through the pipe. :-D

 

Whilst I was at it, I also insulated the exposed fresh water pipework - the main feed from the tank to the sinks had already been insulated but the right angle 'elbow' where it connects to the tank wasn't for some reason and neither was the water filler pipe or the drain down pipe so I used some domestic foam pipe insulation 'tubes' and ensured every bit was well secured, then covered the whole lot with more of the 4 inch wide gaffer tape. :->

 

As I was well and truly frozen and could hardly feel my fingers, I moved inside the van and made insulating screens for the 'acrylic' windows using some old car windscreen sun-shades which I had (like stiff silvered bubble wrap) that sit nicely between the blind and the inside of the window. I'd already made insulating 'pads' for the roof lights previously and have both internal and external cab screens so hopefully we'll be nice and snug! :D

 

As was 'on a roll' I also put some sticky Velcro on the footwell mats to stop them moving around although it was so blooming cold I had to use a hairdrier to get the stuff to stick. 8-)

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Brian Kirby - 2012-11-04 12:54 PM

 

T8LEY - 2012-11-04 12:25 PM

 

Long heating duct runs will have more resistance to air flow than short ones. The swivel vanes at your duct outlets are for adjusting air flow. If you have the vanes on the short runs more closed than the ones on the longer runs you should see an improvement in heat distribution.

Agreed! And, while you're at it, have a good look along the duct to the rear for any kind of obstruction, crushed ducting, disconnections at joints/elbows etc. There is only one fan trying to push the hot air out of the heater. If one route is easier than the other, air, being like water lazy stuff, just takes the easiest route. First make sure the route to the rear is as easy as possible, then make it harder for the air to get out at the front, and more will go to the rear. Only then try insulating. It will make a small difference, but not much.

As above, here's a couple of tips...............

close all the short runs and check that the 'cold' run gets warmer and with a more forceful flow

use gas (or gas and 240v) to quickly warm up the van and then switch back to 240v only - you will notice a much more forceful flow on gas.

 

EDIT: dont tell me, this is a diesel heater?? :-D

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