Steven184 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Hi all I have a autocruise starlet11 which is actually a starburst made specially for marquis I have a water leak on the combitronic water tank. I have scraped away some of the blue lagging and it appears there is water leaking from the top of the tank I was thinking of changing the tank myself but I'm not sure if the vehicles water system is part of the eberspacher heating system I was wondering if anyone has changed a tank before and any pitfalls I may come across Any advice would be really appreciated Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Steve, already answered on 'Hints and Tips'. 'Tracker' (Rich) also owned one of these beasties until recently. mine was sold in October. if it's any consolation (it won't be !) I MUCH prefered my Eberspacher Combitronic to the Truma Combi 4E that I have in my new van. The Truma has let me down twice already, and I've only had it 2 months. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 I echo Ray's views. Great van, great heating too! Ours too developed a leak in the hot water tank around one of the inlets - just out of warranty (Sodde's Law applies!), so I drained it down, took the tank out, carefully cut away the blue insulation and carefully soldered the leak up. I then pressure tested it to 4 bar (more than the pressure relief valve allows) with a foot pump and cobbled together connections before refitting the insulation and tank, checking the many connections for leaks. It gave no more trouble for the 4 more years we had the van and saved the £500 or so that Eberspacher quoted to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ips Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 4 Bar ..... ruddy ell you were lucky you didnt split the tank. Pressure vesel test is usually x 1.5 MAWP (maiximum allowed working pressure) and for boilers a hydrostatic test would usually be carried out rather than with air. Not having a go its just info for anyones interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 ips - 2012-12-21 12:17 PM 4 Bar ..... ruddy ell you were lucky you didnt split the tank. Pressure vesel test is usually x 1.5 MAWP (maiximum allowed working pressure) and for boilers a hydrostatic test would usually be carried out rather than with air. Not having a go its just info for anyones interest. Dunno Ips - I'm no expert - just an amateur fixer so used to resolving his own problems at minimum cost! The pressure relief valve was stated as opening at 3.5 bar - so I figured the tank must be capable of holding at least that? To be sure my repair was up to the job I tested beyond that max - not that the 3.5 bar prv has ever opened as far as I know - and I also pressure tested with mains water at tap pressure but I don't know what that is in this area - except that it does seem quite high when the hose disconnects itself!! Better that than more water in the locker I thought! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 The fittings at the back of the Calorfier have 'Bypass drain taps' set at 3 bar, (I know 'cause i had to replace a 'leaky' one) So 4 bar for the repair of the tank was 'spot on' I would have thought. From the sound of it though, Steve has a 'Pinhole leak' from the top of the tank ? could have been a defect in the copper, ? I had a pinhole leak from the Bottom' of a Carver water heater cylinder, but that turned out to be a build up of chrorine (I had used 'Milton') in the 'Hard water' calcium crystals, which had collected in the bottom of the tank, And 'eaten' it's way through the plastic liner and the alloy. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven184 Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 Hi all I removed the calorifier(blue tank) and cut away some of the blue lagging and I found a very fine split in the copper tank. After a quick bit of soldering and replacing the tank it is working perfectly. All in all it took a couple of hours. I do have a small problem as part of the copper tank is now exposed and looks a bit untidy when you lift up the bench seat.. I was thinking of making a small lagging jacket to put around the tank - will this be safe? I would like to thank you all again as I probably wouldn't have tackled this job myself without this forum saving a lot of money Kind Regards Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Double Post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Well Done Steve, A lagging jacket wouldn't come to any harm, they are designed to withstand heat. Wonder what caused the split ?? no sign of internal pressure build up was there ? The 'Tap' with the red knob on it at the back of the tank is a 'pressure release valve' I had to replace one of these, because it developed a leak, but you can test that it IS releasing pressure by just turning the knob. Water should dischage (just a small amount) whilst it is 'on' the cam. Feels good fixing something, doesn't It ! Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Rayjsj - 2013-01-02 8:12 PM Well Done Steve, Wonder what caused the split ?? . Feels good fixing something, doesn't It ! Yes indeed - well done Steve and welcome to the exclusive band of bodgers! Can't you just stick the original foam back on? Failing that cut up a block of foam insulation to shape and glue it on. Wrap up the whole thing in duct tape and it will look as if it is meant to be that way to the unknowing observer! As Ray says - most satisfying! Frost is far and away the most likely culprit.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Or use expanding foam (example below) to fill in the area of missing insulation http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-fire-rated-expanding-foam-gun-grade-750ml/90589 plus the home-made lagging jacket for a neat appearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Derek Uzzell - 2013-01-03 9:19 AM Or use expanding foam (example below) to fill in the area of missing insulation http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-fire-rated-expanding-foam-gun-grade-750ml/90589 plus the home-made lagging jacket for a neat appearance. That did occur to me - but take the tank out to do it and experiment where the foam can do no harm as it tends to come out of the tube in a rush, go everywhere, and stick like glue to anything it touches! Not for the faint hearted in an enclosed location with delicate surfaces close by! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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