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Strong drive ways


Tomo

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This may seems a rather silly thing to discuss on a motorhome forum but it is really important for me to get this right and I am desparate to get some feed back on this subject.

I have a nearly 4 ton motorhome and I am having my drive way either concreted or block paved. I am having loads of quotes and everytime, up to now, being told different things. Mainly over the depth of the drive. Most of them didn't seem to concerned about the weight and I found that surprising. So has anybody got anything to say that will help me to sort out my head over this. Quotes have been up to £10,000 so you will understand why it has to be done right.

In anticipation thanks.

 

One Life Live It.

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Our old neighbour had block paving on a good whacked down base , but after a while his Mercedes car had caused tramlines in his drive where he drove in and out of his garage  and he had it relayed twice because of it happening ,he gave up in the end and just put up with it. I would think a 4t motorhome would need a well layed base for block paving . We have a tarmac drive on a thick bed of well packed crushed stone which is fine , but a good thick concrete layer would be fine if put down properly.
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I didn't imagine I would have got such quick responses to my problem. Thanks up to now.

I have 3 more companies coming to do quotes for me. Trouble is they come up with all their jargon and you don't know what to believe. In the beginning I was adamant that I was going to have concrete as block paving looks fantastic for a while then doesn't look so good. But have sort of come round to block paving now!!!!

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Tomo - 2013-03-11 8:59 AM

 

This may seems a rather silly thing to discuss on a motorhome forum but it is really important for me to get this right and I am desparate to get some feed back on this subject.

I have a nearly 4 ton motorhome and I am having my drive way either concreted or block paved. I am having loads of quotes and everytime, up to now, being told different things. Mainly over the depth of the drive. Most of them didn't seem to concerned about the weight and I found that surprising. So has anybody got anything to say that will help me to sort out my head over this. Quotes have been up to £10,000 so you will understand why it has to be done right.

In anticipation thanks.

 

One Life Live It.

Unless you have huge blocks the 1000kg wheel load will be distributed over about 30cm x 30cm which will then be distributed a bit more by the bedding sand. Pressure on whatever is below will be just over 1kg per square cm. which is quite a lot hence the need for hardcore as a minimum. I went for blocks, which look nice, over a concrete slab. But then I am a civil/structural engineer and like to do these things properly :-D We are on clay and have had no problems, although with only 750kg.

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I inherited a block paved drive when I bought the bungalow. It must have been a good job with a deep , well compacted base because it is standing up well to my 3.5 ton MH. The previous owner had a small car.

 

The old West Malling airfield was taken over by Kent CC some years ago and the roadways/parking block paved. So it must be possible to do a block job to take lorries etc.

 

The only drawback I have found are weeds.

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Funnily enough I live near Milton Keynes and most of the estates are block paved and they withstand all sorts.

John P, my wife lived at RAF West Malling many years ago. What a coincidence you mentioned it.

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If you are wanting to do it right then depending on your width and length of your drive or hard standing then consider 2 ft wide by 1 ft deep reinforced wheel tracks for the distance to park up then pave the inner and outer areas with standard Marshalls 2 x 2 paving flags, thats how mine has been done but there again I have a separate drive/parking area just for the motorhome which is fully serviced with water, power and drains. The cost was £3000 which I thought was quite expensive at the time but on reflection the builder did a very good job. If you can, get your quotes in writing. My main drive for the cars is block paved but I can't recommend it as you have to keep on top of it, on occasions I've parked the motorhome on it without any problems though.
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A neighbour has recently had his drive block paved and as he has bussiness van he was advised to had a concrete slab laid first, due to weight. My old boss had a paved drive done., I drove onto it in a Volvo 245 and immediatly left broken slabs, he was not amused!!!
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I have " Pattern Imprinted Concrete " and as far as i am concerned it`s the best thing since Sliced Bread.

 

Had it down over 10 years now as it`s as good as the day it went down.

 

I have 240 square metres all around the house including all of my front and a Patio at the rear.

 

Not cheap ( just over £12,000 ) but well worth it ( in my humble opinion ).

 

You can have different colours and patterns so it gives the impression of a Cobbled Drive and Path leading to a Ornamental Front.

 

I got the Firm who did mine to agree to " Commercial Grade " ( thicker ) because of how much i was spending with them.

 

I`ve had a 17 Tonne Hiab Wagon up the drive no problem.

 

Maintenance wise i Power Wash it a couple of times a year and have it " Re-Resined " every 4 or 5 years as recommended by the firm.

 

Just make sure you have a good look and a chat to any previous customers of the company and if

they object.......Walk Away.

 

Next doors Block Paving is already showing " Tram Lines " after 2 years with just their car.

 

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Off the main thrust of the topic..but weren't there moves afoot a while back, to stop folk from just randomly concreting over their front gardens?...with planning permission required etc?

..and don't "they" require something permeable..?

 

It's not really suprising that some local roads are starting suffer from flooding....as it can't soak in to the same degree,it's got to run off somewhere.... :-S

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pepe63 - 2013-03-11 11:08 AM

 

Off the main thrust of the topic..but weren't there moves afoot a while back, to stop folk from just randomly concreting over their front gardens?...with planning permission required etc?

..and don't "they" require something permeable..?

 

It's not really suprising that some local roads are starting suffer from flooding....as it can't soak in to the same degree,it's got to run off somewhere.... :-S

 

 

I think you are right.

 

I believe that planning permission is required if the area to be covered by a non-permeable surface is over a certain size.

 

 

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pepe63 - 2013-03-11 11:08 AM

 

Off the main thrust of the topic..but weren't there moves afoot a while back, to stop folk from just randomly concreting over their front gardens?...with planning permission required etc?

..and don't "they" require something permeable..?

 

It's not really suprising that some local roads are starting suffer from flooding....as it can't soak in to the same degree,it's got to run off somewhere.... :-S

 

In my borough they want the rain water to be directed away from the road or collected in a drain if the surface is not permeable...not just allowed to flood onto the road. It's getting to be quite a hot topic in my in my particular area . There is quite a lot of feeling against off-street parking, mainly by people who live far enough from the shops not to have a problem, who are probably the same people who opposed residents' parking zones.

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pepe63 - 2013-03-11 11:08 AM

 

Off the main thrust of the topic..but weren't there moves afoot a while back, to stop folk from just randomly concreting over their front gardens?...with planning permission required etc?

..and don't "they" require something permeable..?

 

It's not really suprising that some local roads are starting suffer from flooding....as it can't soak in to the same degree,it's got to run off somewhere.... :-S

 

 

When i had my " Job " done i contacted the Local council to see if i needed Planning

Permission and also if there was any Regulations i needed to adhere to ?

 

The Council then contacted me and i told them exactly what i was planning and the area i would be having done and they said there wasn`t a problem as i was creating more Off Road Parking.

 

I didn`t try to " Deceive, Trick or Hide " anything from them and i was completely Upfront at all times.

 

As for some local roads starting to flood, when was the last time you saw the " Gully Wagon " cleaning out the drains in the road ?

 

Maybe it`s because the Drains are Blocked ?

 

It used to be a regular occurrence seeing the " Labourer " riding the Passenger Step holding on to the Wing Mirror till they reached the next drain.

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Had my block paviour drive laid about 6 years ago. A good depth of substrate, (6 inches +) packed down well mechanically. My 3.5 t motorhome has not affected it one bit. As we had the drive laid anticipating the purchase of a motorhome I mentioned this to the chap who did the work and he confidently said it would be no problem. He was right.

 

As for planning permission, if the surface is non-permeable and is over 5m square, then you need to apply for planning permission. Permeable blocks, permeable tarmac etc no planning permission needed.

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Wooie - 2013-03-11 11:35 AM

 

...As for some local roads starting to flood, when was the last time you saw the " Gully Wagon " cleaning out the drains in the road ?

 

Maybe it`s because the Drains are Blocked ?

 

It used to be a regular occurrence seeing the " Labourer " riding the Passenger Step holding on to the Wing Mirror till they reached the next drain.

 

Yes,of cause it goes without saying that the drains need to be kept clear(...and that's something that isn't helped by councils and homeowners using those bl**dy leaf blowers to just move stuff around,instead of brooms and shovels to remove it! *-) ).

 

but the fact remains,when we have row upon row of homes,which have had their frontages paved over,there is only so much their existing drainage system will take...

 

What about looking into some of this concrete "latice work" type stuff that you can get(..as used on some sites/ramps into fields)..at least that'd let some greenary/nature grow through...?

 

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Wooie - 2013-03-11 10:43 AM

 

I have " Pattern Imprinted Concrete " and as far as i am concerned it`s the best thing since Sliced Bread.

 

Had it down over 10 years now as it`s as good as the day it went down.

 

I have 240 square metres all around the house including all of my front and a Patio at the rear.

 

Not cheap ( just over £12,000 ) but well worth it ( in my humble opinion ).

 

You can have different colours and patterns so it gives the impression of a Cobbled Drive and Path leading to a Ornamental Front.

 

I got the Firm who did mine to agree to " Commercial Grade " ( thicker ) because of how much i was spending with them.

 

I`ve had a 17 Tonne Hiab Wagon up the drive no problem.

 

Maintenance wise i Power Wash it a couple of times a year and have it " Re-Resined " every 4 or 5 years as recommended by the firm.

 

Just make sure you have a good look and a chat to any previous customers of the company and if

they object.......Walk Away.

 

Next doors Block Paving is already showing " Tram Lines " after 2 years with just their car.

 

We also have the same as the above and I must say it has stood the test of time very well. After a few years the sealing began to degrade so I power washed it all off then resealed it with a thin sealant designed for sealing pavement blocks. Gives a much more pleasing natural stone look and does not peal off. Every couple of years I give it a power wash to remove any ingrained dirt then give it a quick coat of the sealant when it's dried out. Quick and easy to do.

 

If you do go for block paving it goes without saying that you need to make sure a well compacted good foundation is used suitable for you soil conditions and the weight of your motorhome. However you should also note that not all paving blocks are the same. They come in various thicknesses. The thicker ones you use the more firmly they will lock in place to produce a stable drive. Best of all are some thick blocks that have an interlocking curved shape, rather than being simply square, which produces the most stable drive possible. Given that much of the cost will be made up of the removal of the old drive. The construction of the foundations and the actual laying of the blocks it makes since to spend the little bit extra on heavy duty blocks. Before I retired I paved a large area where I worked and we ran heavy lorries over it with no problems at all.

 

You will probably get what you pay for so the cheapest quote won't be as good as you thought if you have to have the work done again. Use a contractor with a good reputation and discus the foundations and the spec of the blocks you want him to use so that he is not tempted to cut corners to keep the price down and get the job.

 

We had a contractor round our area giving very cheap quotes for block drives and a lot of people had them done and I have to admit they have all been fine. There must have been something questionable going on but I did notice he was using thick heavy duty blocks which I can only assume he obtained in bulk for somewhere at should we say a very competitive price!

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A 4 ton MH is light by comparison with 40 ton lorries. There is little or no difference between paviours and concrete but paviours look better. There are two essentials:

 

1 Use an adequate thickness of well compacted hardcore as a base. I would suggest a minimum of 300mm.

 

2 Make sure that there are no pockets of soft or organic material in the sub-base, these should be removed and replaced with suitable, granular, well compacted fill. Most importantly, check that the contractor actually places the specified thickness of hardcore. My personal experience is that the Contractor will try to skimp in this area. Without using a level it is difficult to check that the specified thickness has been achieved. You could ask the Contractor to set up sight lines to demonstrate that he has complied with the Specification.

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Hi Tomo

I am in this trade

If you have a clay ground get the people to

 

For a block paved drive

 

1) lay a good quality heavy duty Geo fabric

2) make sure the edging kerbs are laid first and are laid on a good bed of concrete then haunched up with concrete( some people just lay the drive and just spread a thin layer of concrete around the edge blocks), this is not good

3) 6 inches of well compacted scalpings (not hardcore) for you sub-base

4) lay the blocks on a max of 2 inches of sharp sand and well compact

 

 

 

-----

Cheers

 

Dawki

 

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