Strong drive ways

[Mel B]

We have a very large concrete drive which was here when we moved in, the concrete alone is 8 inches thick reinforced with stones!!! 8-) I know this for a fact as we removed about a 15ft length of it and had to hire a jack hammer and it took ages and lots of skips!!!! *-)

 

It is very strong BUT unfortunately our drive slopes down into our garden and it is constantly flooded when we have heavy rain. I have installed a French drain along the bottom to take some of the water away which has alleviated most of the problem.

 

So, if you have a SLOPE down to your garden I would strongly suggest you either anticipate the extra cost of putting in drainage with a concrete drive, or go for something that will allow water to drain through it such as block paving.

 

Block paving, unless well laid, WILL sink/distort and despite what anyone tells you will need maintenance - weeding can be a pain. One advantage, however, other than the drainage, is that the surfaces of the blocks usually have a texture to them so will be 'grippier' than smooth concrete.

 

The other thing to consider is resin, we looked at this last year but at the time decided against it as we weren't sure how long we'd be staying here and it wasn't cheap but as it would just have been applied over our existing concrete drive, this wasn't as expensive as starting from scratch. If you don't need such a permanent/substantial drive, you could instead use some of the reinforcing block that you can then allow grass to grow into or even fill with gravel/chippings. These can give a very good aesthetic look without the massive cost of a 'fully fledged' drive (although the preparations/work still has to be done properly).

 

One thing NOT to even consider in any way shape or form going for solely is one made from large gravel/pebbles! Our neighbour has this on her large drive and it looks horrible due to all the ruts in it, is very uncomfortable to walk on and she is always having to level it out - she hates it and if it wasn't such a large area she'd replace it without question.

[fred22]

Hi, We have just had a pebble drive replaced by a tarmac one.

 

We had 3 quotes from companies that have been in business in this area for a long time and whose literature shows that they do work for The Local and County Councils

 

On each occasion the rep who came asked if our insurance company had been informed that we had a pebble drive.? It is almost impossible to prevent some of the gravel creeping on to the pavement and,if a pedestrian slipped on it, we would be liable for damages. Easy to do, I fell myself a few days later.

[Mel B]

Interesting about having to tell your insurance company about a pebble drive ... first I've heard of it - I wonder if the tarmac drive rep was being rather 'liberal' with the truth to get a sale? :-S

 

As for tarmac - we've had them in the past and found that they always settled and we then ended up with lots of areas with puddles.

[mirage]

We have a quality Tarmac Drive even saying that I always parked the Motorhome on boards to spread the weight, constant weight for long periods is enough to make impressions on any material there has never been any mark whatsoever from pressure.

I would however add a warning about overfilling the fuel tank i.e. beyond the first cut off and then driving a short distance to home. Twice once with the JTD and again with an X250 I`ve had a diesel spill albeit minor on the drive and it does`nt take much to "burn a hole" - repaired perfectly with cold tar from a DIY Store.

 

[Guest peter]

I would go for two strips of concrete to take the van and do the rest with scalpings with gravel on the top for drainage and eye appeal.

[flicka]

We have 8" hardcore topped with 6" concrete & showing no signs of any problems after 6 years - Van is 3.5tonne.

Just needs a power wash once or twice a year.

 

This should help busting the contractors’ jargon

http://www.practicaldiy.com/out-doors-diy/concrete/concrete-design.php

 

Lots of info here (although US based)

http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete-subgrades-subbases/

 

Whatever you decide on for the surface layer, it's the sub-base that determines the longevity (or not)

[Mrs T]

Similar to the above. Find a building contractor who is used to making roads or house foundations. Lay several inches of stone or brick rubble and 5inches concrete We've had 7 ton trucks on it. If its at all sloping have the surface ribbed, easy done with a plank and two people.

 

MT

[Mel B]

Wooie - 2013-03-11 10:43 AM

 

I have " Pattern Imprinted Concrete " and as far as i am concerned it`s the best thing since Sliced Bread.

 

Had it down over 10 years now as it`s as good as the day it went down.

 

I have 240 square metres all around the house including all of my front and a Patio at the rear.

 

Not cheap ( just over £12,000 ) but well worth it ( in my humble opinion ).

 

You can have different colours and patterns so it gives the impression of a Cobbled Drive and Path leading to a Ornamental Front.

 

I got the Firm who did mine to agree to " Commercial Grade " ( thicker ) because of how much i was spending with them.

 

I`ve had a 17 Tonne Hiab Wagon up the drive no problem.

 

Maintenance wise i Power Wash it a couple of times a year and have it " Re-Resined " every 4 or 5 years as recommended by the firm.

 

Just make sure you have a good look and a chat to any previous customers of the company and if

they object.......Walk Away.

 

Next doors Block Paving is already showing " Tram Lines " after 2 years with just their car.

Looks like you got a good firm to do yours, unfortunately there are a lot of 'cowboys' out there doing this too which has caused a lot of problems for the ones who do a professional job. Some of the ones who now do resin drives have stopped doing these 'imprinted concrete' ones because of them. What I don't really understand though is the need to keep having it 're-resined' - surely it shouldn't need it? It is done as a cosmetic thing rather than a necessity?

[Brian Kirby]

Tomo - 2013-03-11 9:47 AM

 

We are also clay, in fact I'm sure we could start our own business of making pots. I agree blocks on top of concrete would definitely do the job.

I have a little nag that you now have to have porous surfaces to reduce water run-off. It may be worth checking this with your local authority before you get too far.

 

Clay is always on the move. It is also soft. You need a flexible surface to take up these movements, and you may need some advice on what will work best. Concrete has to be laid in bays, or it will crack. The bays are no more than a way of dictating where the cracks will fall, rather than having the concrete decide for itself. If the concrete is to survive the movements of the clay, I think it would need at least top and bottom mesh reinforcement (weldmesh), plus it will form an impervious layer below the blocks and their bedding that may hold water and cause frost heave.

 

Soooo, my preference would be to go for blocks on sand on roadbase. Why not talk to your local road engineers department (if they still have one!) to see what kind of construction they would favour?

 

If the clay is really soft you may need to start with a geotextile mat to stop the base material migrating into the clay. But, the point is that because the blocks are small units it all remains flexible, so it can follow the clay. A good depth of well compacted roadbase material, with a tamped sand topping, and the blocks laid dry onto that and jointed with kiln dried sand would, I think, be my favourite. It has one other great advantage: if, for any reason, you need to extend it, or take some of it up, it is a far easier job than doing either with reinforced concrete slabs. It is also semi permeable, so that water can just seep down through it, which will help keep the clay moist and avoid too much shrinkage and cracking.